antman

Those are the exact ones I bought off ebay, also said it was for r32, 300zx etc and are fitted to my 300zx. Only pain in the a$$ is with this type of camber arm is getting the spanner up in there to adjust and tighten the lock nuts. So far so good.

Hi Adam, thanks for the welcome... new parts are fairly easily available here from Nissan SA at quite extreme costs but I am sure thats worldwide with Nissan. I have imported most of my engine and suspension parts from the US and some from the UK however the US$ exchange rate is more favourable than the pound at the moment but at ZAR9.20 to 1US$ it is still costly. I have been lurking this forum for a while and you are right there is a wealth of info and a bunch of helpfull people. See you.

Thank you Gary.... it would have been great being closer to you guys so that I could enjoy the get togethers you all get to attend. I am not sure of the quantity of 300's in SA but I only know 3 other owners personally. We don't evan have a 300zx forum. So any get together would be a general Nissan one. The 200sx club is pretty big here consisting mainly of the s13 and some s14, I had 2 s13 before I moved on to the 300. Any way thats why this forum is so great with less in forum bitchyness than the ozy forum, no disrespect to them they do know their zeds.:biggrin:

I am also with you on that one, maybe for a sponsered race car that can be torn down frequently but for my "reliable" street I think I will keep the full guide. Yip, cant wait to start my build.

Heres a pic...not too clear

Hi.....what I meant was once you have removed the valves/springs/collets etc from the head then looking into the port you see the end of the valve guide sticking out into the port. Now I am on about removing/grinding away the bit of guide as well as some of the head/boss in the port. I have seen a few and have a spare set of heads which have been done in this way. I will try and get a pic for clarity. Cheers

Hi, I had similar rattle on my stock motor I rebuilt (stripped and cleaned lifters) and also initially thought it was lifters but then again dirty lifters make a tic, tic noise and not so much a rattle IMO. But in my case when first starting the motor the rattle would start at just above idle to about 2000rpm, I would switch off the motor and wait a couple of seconds and resart the motor and the noise was gone and would not happen again. The rattle did not happen on every cold up start and I was leaning towards VCT related issue.

Hi Mark, in your porting activitiy are you going to remove the protruding valve guides and head bosses in the ports as I see some modders do? What are your views on the spark plug shrouds in the combustion chamber?

Thanks again.

Thanks guys...appreciate the welcome.

Hi guys, been registered on here a while and have not introduced myself. This seems to be a great forum which loads of info and a bunch of helpful members most willing to help. I am from South Africa and the 300zx 2+2 was sold here for a few years by Nissan and of late many jap import models have surfaced as well as some US left hand drive models. I have owned mine for 3 years and got it as a non runner which was the only way I could afford it, anyway I will be planning a build thread soon as I have most of the parts now to get going. cheers for now...

I got the F1 racing light weight flywheel and stage 2 clutch (rated at 409 hp) and looks like a quality product, the motor response has improved and so far the clutch is holding out well. The motor is rebuilt with port matched and flowed heads to inlet/exhaust manifolds and boosting 1.1bar and so far no signs of slippage however I am not one for revving and dropping the clutch at the lights. I will see if it holds out when I fit the kit to my forged motor with gt28rs turbos in the next few months. There are a few on the ozzy forum using this kit and have good reviews, I based my purchase on them. In a nut shell I am happy.

Thanks Noz.......once I have fitted the turbos and motor to the car I will decide which way to go. Thanks

Hi NOZ, I am making this thread an open one in case there are others after the same info. I am currently using a chip I bought off you on ebay on my rebuilt stock motor and it is running very well, pulls strong at 1bar boost with no issues at all....that you for that. I have rebuilt a second motor with some good bits, wisecos 88mm, eagle rods, stock heads port matched and flowed, stock manual cams, cometics, ARP studs, 550 injectors, flowed stock exhaust manifolds with GT28RS turbos and divorced down pipes. I am hoping you can supply a chip which will support these mods or do you recommend a stand alone ecu. I know there are others on this forum who have experise on this and I welcome all comment. Thank you

No, a 1 ohm will not work....must be a 1 Mega ohm resistor, use a .25Watt(quarter watt) or a .5Watt( half Watt) resistor.

Hi Guys, was thinking of getting the above arms as it seems a lot easier for the alignment people to access the adjusting nuts compared to my adjustable upper camber ones which are a ******* to get to with a spanner. So I was looking at the ebay front lower camber arms but I am finding it hard to understand how the adjustment works. Obviously the lock nut/s are loosened but must the part that bolts to the chassis be removed and adjustment made and then refitted or can it be done in situ? Anyone using these and what do you think of them. Thanks

Hi Guys, I am pumagt(home) and antman(work) on this forum......anyway this is how they work. The hole diameters in the alloys are much larger than the stud diameter, so the 112 pcd alloy will fit onto the hub but you will see that the 114 studs are not in the centre of the wheel holes but slightly to the out side of the wheel holes. The wobble nut is a wheel nut with a thick concave washer that is permanetly attached but can move around the nut. So when you offer up the wobble nut it threads onto the stud and the concave washer will automatically sit offset to the nut and stud but seats perfectly into the wheel concave. I hope my explanation was clear.