ozx_320

Being Australian, the obvious choice was a decision between Holden and Ford. Unfortunately, having seen the Z32 debut at the Motorshow some years before, I'd sparked an interest in the Japanese offerings. Ended up with a Datsun 260Z 2+2 with the L26 motor instead changed out for an Aussie influenced Holden 186... bored out to a 192 cubic inch, high compression head, sports cam and a little more fruit added to the mix. Displeased the old Datsun purists almost as much it would chew through the front differential rubber mount

same- hence why unopened. There's an increasing trend towards factory and Japanese manufacturer parts to distinguish one's Z from the pack. Altia sills and Veilside exhausts (for example) that once sat listed on Yahoo auctions for weeks now disappear within hours of listing, at significantly higher prices. Few years ago, would buy a Nismo or Impul 300km/hr cluster for AU$50, simply to make the freight costs a little more worthwhile. Not too sure about the situation over in the UK, but its encouraging over here at least that, even though the value of the Z32 has not increased of late, the quality and diversity of parts is slowly increasing over the previous mainstream, mass produced "fiberglass bodykit and quick respray rebuild"

As mentioned, they do come up from time to time on Yahoo auctions. Only ever for 2+2 however. Have only ever seen one legitimate pair to suit 2+0, and they're fitted to my car. Regarding the new pair that were for sale in Australia for 800, they used to be mine.... couldn't justify keeping them as I'd never actually fit them to any of my Z's. They've only ever been removed from packaging for testing and photographing purposes- worth every cent for those with the "what else can I possibly buy next" mentality. .... that asking price wont hold a candle to the unopened set of factory roof racks I've got tucked away should I ever decide to part with them :biggrin:

Regarding buying parts through Yahoo Auctions. A lot of us Aussies are using a guy called Jesse Streeter. He's a fellow Aussiemite now located in Japan. Initially started off as a single man operation when I personally started getting parts through him, now has quite a few employees in his business. A simple google search will reveal quite a few positive testaments regarding his business and service. Simply send him the link for the yahoo item and how much you are prepared to bid to his email- dartsun75@gmail.com Apparently, his services also go beyond yahoo parts- If you are able to supply him with the part number from Nissan FAST, he can source price and availability direct from Nissan Japan (although I cannot comment on this having never pursued this option) Correspondence is quite fast, including a quote for internal freight (from seller to him) freight to your door (utilises EMS air freight, for the anxious, or sea, for a cheaper alternative) and his commission fees, which were by far cheaper than other established import agents in Australia. Let it be known that I am in no way affiliated with him or his business, simply passing on a highly recommended means of sourcing parts direct from Japan. Of the tens of thousands of $$$ in parts I've purchased through him, I've NEVER had a single part lost or damaged on transit. -Cheers Michael

Regarding buying parts through Yahoo Auctions. A lot of us Aussies are using a guy called Jesse Streeter. He's a fellow Aussiemite now located in Japan. Initially started off as a single man operation when I personally started getting parts through him, now has quite a few employees in his business. A simple google search will reveal quite a few positive testaments regarding his business and service. Simply send him the link for the yahoo item and how much you are prepared to bid to his email- dartsun75@gmail.com Apparently, his services also go beyond yahoo parts- If you are able to supply him with the part number from Nissan FAST, he can source price and availability direct from Nissan Japan (although I cannot comment on this having never pursued this option) Correspondence is quite fast, including a quote for internal freight (from seller to him) freight to your door (utilises EMS air freight, for the anxious, or sea, for a cheaper alternative) and his commission fees, which were by far cheaper than other established import agents in Australia. Let it be known that I am in no way affiliated with him or his business, simply passing on a highly recommended means of sourcing parts direct from Japan. Of the tens of thousands of $$$ in parts I've purchased through him, I've NEVER had a single part lost or damaged on transit. -Cheers Michael

generally they cant be adjusted. The door drops because the hinge itself wears. A general inspection of the lower hinge assembly will reveal if the normally tight fitting pin has flared out the hinge assembly. Also determined by movement in the door of you try to lift it up. A quick and easy solution is to:- 1. Loosen both bolts on the lower hinge as so that the entire hinge assembly moves away from the door 2. Remove 1 bolt completely, slide a few (2-3) 8mm washers between the hinge assembly and door body, making sure the holes align with the removed bolt. 3. Refit the bolt firmly (so as to support the weight of the door, but not pull the hinge assembly against the door body 4. Repeat the procedure for the opposite bolt Alternatively, source some PASSENGER side door hinges (will only have been used a fraction of the amount of the drivers side), flip them and fit to your drivers side.

out of interest, what kind of freight costs are you guys looking at to get a system from Japan? Has anybody priced one? Unfortunately, the trade-off of their S/S construction is their weight, and sizing restrictions for EMS sea freight meant that I always had to bring mine in via Air freight, at a cost of close to AU$700 per system (minus commissions, internal freight cost from yahoo seller to agent and cost of item itself) These prices were for a catback only, a full 2+0 was just over $1000 in freight :( Fortunately, none of my purchases from Japan have ever incurred import duty or taxes. Please don't misinterpret this as an attempt to sell one. I've long since parted with my excess systems, and have no intentions of removing and selling my remaining one.

http://www.croooober.com/item/2347727 There's 1 in Japan. They also have a facebook page. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=331679 There's 1 on the Aus300zx page. If youre not a member, seller also has it listed on the Australia z32 300zx buy/sell page. Also has a pair of mint condition Altia illuminated 1/4 window shades, still in packaging. Unfortunately, they've become increasingly sought after over the last few years, thus the source (yahoo auctions) prices have gone up considerably to suit :( Don't know about the UK, but they are about. Had 4 of them myself at 1 stage. Without a doubt, the best sounding, easiest fitting and best constructed system I've ever seen for a 300zx

big fan of the GTZ front lip- Eliminates the "overbite" look of the stock TT bar. Fitment is spot on, as you would expect from Stillen

How long have you been running your HID's? Wasn't overly impressed with mine to start with, and that was with replacing the entire headlight assembly for a perfect pair of fittings from a '97. I was advised that over time- say a week of driving, illumination will significantly improve- turned out to be the case for me. I've converted all of mine to 35W 6000k HIDs, driving lights included (with new Coz fittings as well). Difference between those and conventional halogens is without comparison really, especially on the driving/ fog lights. Also, not 100% on wiring for the UK specs, but if the same as J-spec, a much easier method of performing the constant low with high beam mod is to cut the spade connector from the 12V ballast '-'ve wire and replace it with a lug (round hole). Bolt the lug to the chassis (ensuring you have a good connection to ground) and you're done. Cheers Michael

Datsun fairlady, they're an awesome little car- Kind of a cross between an MGB and an Austin Healey Sprite. Personally have a 1964 1500cc Roadster. Value of them over here in Australia has gone up significantly in recent years, as they're being appreciated for a Datsun Sports car, not a Japanese copy of an English classic

idles shouldn't jump 700rpm with AC engaged, even without the compressor loading the system. Would be looking at a possible boost leak for erratic idle As for the "whirring" noise. Remove your auxiliary belts individually and momentarily start the car. Issue could be from bearing damage on alternator, viscous fan, PS and Water pump... or worst case, Timing belt idler bearing.

Do a facebook search on RGS performance. An Australian Aus300zx forum member, Rob260 offers a full LED kit to replace the entire interior illumination (dash cluster, ignition, window illumation, side pods, interior illumination). Having followed a forum tech section write-up on 1 of my Z's that involved disassembling the existing T10 lamps and replacing with LED and soldered resistor combinations and then fitting 1 of Rob's interior kits on a second, can say that the latter offers same, of not better illumination, with much less headache (simple plug and play swap out). cheers Michael

NEVER rely on the factory temperature gauge. They are only reliable for indicating that the engine isn't cold. Anything above, and you're rolling the dice. A TWD (Temperature Warning Device) is a handy installation for those who want to retain the factory look over installed A/M gauges. An LED installed wherever preferred (usually on the face of the OEM temperature gauge) gives an accurate indication, fed via the ECU CTS, as to when an adjustable temperature is reached. Rather simple to make yourself, there's an article on the aus300zx forum. Many of us over here are using them.

Am actually Dutch heritage, first generation Australian. Actuators are HKS 12psi units. Entire kit is a Coz/ConceptZ kit, with new braided oil feed and silicone drain lines. Bought them for a song as the previous owner didn't install properly, and the passenger wastegate actuator was misaligned, resulting in failed operation ... thus grenading the motor

aah, I thought it was us Aussies' job to wreck the Queen's English with abbreviations. Honestly, haven't run a car with them yet. Not chasing huge numbers with the motor, and a set of GT600R/2560Rs came up cheap at the right time.

Possibility that its detonation. Would be checking- a. Timing- that's its not too far advanced. Using the loop at the PTU will give incorrect readings, as can using the wires at the actual coilpack. Using a short silicone lead from the coilpack to the spark plug, and using the timing light clamp around that is the most accurate method. b. Timing belt- as mentioned above- That it wasn't installed 1 tooth out. Never rely on the timing marks on the belt. Have seen Dayco branded timing belt that are incorrectly marked. Counting teeth, as outlined in the manual is the only surefire way of correct fitment

tubs? sorry, but don't understand what that is :huh:

rear spoiler is actually a Navan from a Y32 Cima. Wanted to retain something of a factory look, but wasn't sold on the z32 one, specifically how high it sat, and the angle it came down on. The Y32 variant is more flat, overall thicker, incorporates an LED brake light and more complimenting in shape in my opinion. Nothing puckers your rear end more than drilling into a fresh $10000 paint job, for a spoiler you're not sure will even fit

My slicktop is used as a daily.... well as much as a 3 week away- 1 week home roster allows. Was completely shocked when the bare metal respray on mine revealed a rust bubble the size of a thumbnail beside the hatch hinge. Amazing seeing the rust that so many Z's over there sustain- Even the worst I've seen over here doesn't compare.

This is the other one. 1995 J-spec 2+2 TT. 75000 original k's on the clock. Previous owner imported and briefly used as a race car, before running too much NOS and losing cylinder #6. In the process of pulling all of the illegals off and reverting back to stock-ish. Replacement motor being assembled- forged bottom end, mild cams, head work, o/s valves, 650 injectors, 2560R Turbos ... and yes, modified TBO front bar and FMIC combo have been removed in place for a stock TT bar and larger SMICs

Cheers Funkysi, been about a 4 year project now. Done everything myself, apart from Paint and Panel work (I couldn't even colour between the lines as a kid) Did away the twin peashooter exhaust recently. Wasn't impressed with the Veilside evolution on an NA, so went for a custom system. Twin 3" outlet tip need trimming back, but a little reluctant to get a grinder that close.

when I bought it- From a wrecking yard And now its getting closer

1. Veilside Evolution on 1 of my TT's. As said in another thread, the build quality and fitment is without comparison. Sound is exceptional. Only downside is the weight- approximately 37kg for a catback (based on freight costs) and price. 2. Zees Cannon catback on my other TT. Fitment isn't too flash, only lines up with 1 hanger per rear cannon. Only the cannons are SS. Piping and centre muffler is mild, and the centre muffler is prone to rust. Considerably cheaper than the Veilside. Sound is comparable to the Trust system. 3. Custom system on my NA, consisting of 200cpsi SS cats, UAS SS 3" twin in-out centre muffler, reduced to 2.5" piping and then Magnaflow SS 2.5" inlet, twin 3" outlet rears. Having tried a veilside evolution system on an NA, found that 3" piping was simply too large, and the drive was unbearable. Magnaflow mufflers are pretty good quality, and a good solution if you don't want to go J-spec route

yes, was optional on '95+ J-specs afaik (my '95 and a friends have it). Keyless entry and hatch release. Unsure if there was immobiliser as part