ozx_320

disconnecting that "yellow connector" is your CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor). Your ECU relies on it to know what temp your coolant is at.... hence not advisable. A bit of investigation is required (by you, as I'm too lazy to do so). Firstly- locate the Relay for the AC Fan. It will be in the relay block on the passenger inner guard. Pull the relay and test the contact side of the terminal with ignition OFF. This will ascertain if the relay contact is constantly 12V supply or switched via the ignition. *IF the terminal have 12V only when the ignition is on, then you can proceed with this suggestion* Secondly- As the ECU controls the fan via grounding of the earth side of the Fan Relay Coil, you should be able to fit a diode between this wire and ground, with the stripe end of the diode facing the ground. Ultimately, this will create a permanent ground circuit for the Fan Relay, thus running the fan constantly, without completely isolating the ECU control of the fan, so, in the event of your diode failing, the ECU can still control the thermo fan. The schematic drawings in the service manual will help to identify the wire colours for the AC fan (2 speed for TT and single speed for NA)

sorry, that didn't read too well, and cant find post edit function on this forum :(

There is a my experience has shown that the vacuum pump is the issue (located in the engine bay). There is a test you can do in the service manual in which you run a chapter in the manual designated to Cruise function and Diagnostics. Diagnostic tests use a 12V supply (wire from the battery) to various terminals on the pump plug- simulating cruise actuation etc. The pump creates vacuum, so a leak in the diaphragm or pump failure etc will result in non- functioning cruise. ... or it could be as simple as the small 6mm vacuum hose has come off that links the pump to the diaphragm Another point to note that to ensure the cable that connects to your throttle body linkage is adjusted correctly (reasonably firm). This will result in much smoother CC operation

I fitted an entire R34 tiptronic shifter to mine. Was a combined attempt (with a grafted R34 cluster in a Z32 housing) to utilise the select-shift option. Took a LOT of time to get the right adjustment on the rod that goes to the Inhibitor switch to have proper gear selection. The select shift didn't work however :( With a bit of mucking around, was able to swap the Z32 shifter knob for the R34. Feels much nicer. Will shorten the Z32 shaft at a later date, so as to have it virtually flush. Might be possible to do the same with the MR2.

http://www.interior-innovations.com/index.php/welcome/products/2 Lot of us aussies have gone through this supplier. No negative reports thus far Cheers Michael

very rarely come up on yahoo auctions. Interesting to also note that the 300zx stacker came with a leather cover. Pretty sure the stacker model number is a Sony CDX-5N-51-P, also available over there (in the uk) in a ford mondeo (iirc), which come up from time to time on ebay.uk. It will have the FORD logo on the controller, unsure of the stacker. Found the manual, which is pretty extensive with regards to repairing the stacker units. Probably a bit too large to post on here, but can email. Cheers -Michael

Have one of these in my slicktop (bit of a stickler for optional extras) Sourced the wiring diagram for the unit and wired it as so that the output signal is converted to Bluetooth, which I have paired with my Pioneer head unit. Utilised the 12V signal wire that the controller sent to the original Clarion Head unit to switch it to stacker mode, wired into a USB port to recharge the Bluetooth sender unit. No reason why you cant do the same, but wire it to a stereo jack input (most aftermarket head units have these). Shoot me your email address, and will endeavour to find the manual and send it to you. For such an old stacker, the sound is surprisingly good, and rarely skips, even on our terrible Aussie roads. Cheers Michael

After years of searching.... found these

its an Ab-flug brace. Might run into some issues with fitment too- Fuel hardlines have to be bent, as do the hi-pressure hoses and doesn't clear the throttle cover.

eh? how is offering to send a scanned item to somebody for free considering "selling items"?

You need to be a subscribed member to sell items on the forum mate.

Window tinting must be damn expensive over there. My 2+0 set of 1/4 window shades set me back almost AU$900/ 600 Pounds.

You want 7.5mm EFI (higher pressure fuel hose). Replace the 2 short hoses at the filter, the longer hoses that run to the fuel hardlines on top of plenum and shorter hoses that run between hardline, Fuel Pressure Regulator, injector rail and Fuel Dampener. Ideally, you will also want to replace the already mentioned hose between both injector rails. Yes, it requires upper plenum off for access. Old hoses will often be quite difficult to remove. Loosen the clamp sufficiently to slide it back (exercise caution to not loosen too far, as the lower nut section of the clamp will fall into the plenum runner abyss) and use a stanley knife to cut the hose from the hardlines. OEM SS hose clamps are more than adequate for re-using, and often, even after their age, a much better alternative than worm drive clamps. Have personally been doing so for the past 11 years without issue. -Michael

Will get some photos up of my slicktop over here in Australia. Has been fitted with:- Altia illuminated sills Altia illuminated rear garnish Altia illuminated 1/4 window shades (yes they do make them for 2+0) "Splatter design" Floor mats (about the only way you can describe the look) Bose enclosures front and rear Sony 10-stacker CD with console mounted controller. Bit difficult if you dont have the required clarion/bose casette with cd controller input, but have converted mine to transmit via bluetooth for aftermarket Pioneer head unit Other factory options include... Nissan 1/4 window inserts (differ to the Altia illuminated) Nissan Hatch carpet protector. Virtually a carpet that goes over the hatch carpet..... go figure Storage compartment. Only available for 2+0 as far as I know. Sits in the carpeted area between the rear struts. Roof racks- with optional ski attachments and surfboard tie down. Do have a brand new, unfitted set of altia 1/4 window inserts to suit 2+2 that I'll part with some day..... but how can you put a price on the rarest of options in mint condition :P