lonezedder

Hi Lee. Just remember the series 2 PTU can die. People seem to think it can't. Well mine did! Also, you say the fuel pump was changed last week? I seem to recall Dazsw recently changed his pump on an otherwise perfect running car and then that soon died, the AA came out and said the new pump was at fault. Just a thought. :) http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?181574-What-is-this-part Maybe drop him PM, see if it was the new pump in the end?

JFYI my current Zed had an aftermarket pattern part PSU fitted by the previous owner and that still gave incorrect readings. Changed it out for an OEM unit, job done gauge reads correctly and quickly. Be careful if using pattern parts.

You don't need to dremel the plenum to test the resistance of the injectors, just unplug and read, the dremel comes out if you want to change an injector without removing the plenum.

Interesting to note that he has successfully supplied a pair of intercoolers to someone as well albeit with a neutral feedback score due to poor comms and delivery time.

I can only comment as much in that I was the buyer of the new OEM 89 spec bumper and it is now safely sat in my dining room after a successful collection.... maybe I just got lucky?

I have had both a S1 and S2 PTU fail. An S1 on my first Z, the S2 PTU on my current Z. I am now running a brand new S2 PTU and also a WS RHD EFI loom from the US and can confirm they are a good bit of kit, but they only cater for the S2 PTU so no ugly conversion harness to accommodate.

The remaining 'reds' are most likely due to worn bushings.

Gotta love a red Zed. Looks great. :) These cars are starting to look quite small now in the company of the modern car. See Ferry pic, looks tiny behind that Skoda!

Some thing like this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KMH-TO-MPH-Speedo-Dial-Conversion-EARLY-NISSAN-300ZX-TURBO-for-imported-cars-/261307122290?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cd71e4272 Although you don't have boost gauge.

I could be wrong, but unfortunately I believe that the UK clocks are only compatible with s1 and s2 cars, possibly s3. S4+ have completely different arrangements at the rear so plug n play is not possible. I sure some very clever bright spark could make it all happen though. I suppose to keep everything as Nissan intended in terms of steering weight etc, the best bet would be to change the dial face for some 0-120mph dials, I've seen a few of those and it still looks better than the standard JDM face some how as they have both mph/kmh scales. The speed limiter is obviously still active though, but maybe its not a bad thing these days - 112mph is plenty fast enough and it might save you from having to prove your car and blowing the engine at some stage!:lol:

The speed sensor talks directly to the speedo cluster which THEN sends out a speed signal to the steering ECU, HICAS ECU and so on. These speed convertor chips are essentially just a divider, they fool the JSPEC cluster by reducing the signal from the speed sensor by 1/3rd, hence reading the equivalent of MPH instead of KPH. The trouble is that this reduced signal is also passed on to the other ECUs which makes for lighter steering as it thinks the car is going slower than it is. The same for the HICAS response. Using a UK cluster leaves the speedo signal at 100% and so the signal is passed on to the other ECUs at the correct value, so the speed related steering assistance and so on are as Nissan intended. Simples!

I think they are (slowly) on the up...

FFS why do people insist on ruining such a beautiful standard car. Boils my piss in all honesty.:cursing:

I can understand people getting excited about the prospect of a 98+box, but really a freshly rebuilt early style box will/should be absolutely fine. We forget how many early style boxes are out there right now running without issue and that many will have done a lot more than the cars indicated mileage. Surely they have already proved themselves been 15-25 years old, but you got to expect some wear and some of these cars have had some serious abuse, never mind a good deal more power than standard!

£600 - It isn't bad really for what becomes an essentially new box.

Why not simply take the car or box alone to a gearbox specialist and get a quote for a rebuild with/without various options. I have a receipt amongst my paperwork for a reconditioned box and I think it was £600 which I don't think is to bad.

^^^Brilliant! I may invest at sometime. Thanks.:thumbup1:

Mondo, please rate the bonnet stut kit out of 10 for us. Were there any problems fitting this kit, any clearance or interference issues? No exactly cheap for what it is, but if the qualities there it can be worth the extra. Thanks....

Always nice this. Mine flew thru last month.

Looking absolutely stunning this. Moving into the top ranks of Zed perfection me thinks! :thumbup1:

Does your Datascan record any particular fault code when the car dies?

You've only recently had the pump and injectors replaced haven't you? Along with a remap? I'd possibly start by returning the car to that garage to confirm the new pump is faulty.

When it dies and won't restart, you could plug a couple of plugs to check if they are getting wet with fuel, then at least you have a starting point to work with. What made him suggest the fuel pump?

Bummer. The symptoms you describe can well be a failing PTU and although the S2 PTUs were a massive improvement, I have heard they can still fail like anything else. In fact what am I saying, have just had a series 2 PTU fail on me back in April and replaced with a brand new one from CZP. When it failed, my car behaved like yours is now, after a cool down it would start, then within 3-4miles it would cut out and repeat.... Assuming your car still has its original loom, your probably running a S1 to S2 adaptor harness which means its very easy to swap your PTU back to an S1 PTU just to prove if that is the cause. I say this because S1 PTUs are cheap to buy second hand or people don't mind lending them out.

https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=2503 Be sure it is this part that's worn though. Is it visually worn or is there play in the wheel? I've just replaced the actually inner rack arms on mine, that's where my play was, but easily mistaken to be the outer joint.