dunk300zxtt

Well I was wondering the same thing. Didn't want to make a decision before I had all the evidence before me ;)

Cryogenic..... It is a form of heat treatment. Most heat treatments involve raising the temp of workpiece to 800-1000c to harden it, then quench to room temp, then re-heat it to a much lower temperature 200-400c to temper it and increase toughness. Cryogenics involve liquid nitrogen :hyper: and reducing the temperature of workpiece right down. They say is gives a better result (on some applications) than increasing the temperature. HTH. Rob. EDIT...lol......... just re-read your post Matty.... Sorry for telling you how to harden steel when you already know... lol... :slap:

Good thread MAC.... I want to do this myself, but have had reservations. Who changed PCV valves at the same time as de-cat?

If you have a look at the slow-mo replays of the top fuel drag cars for instance, you see off the start, their rear rims do almost a 1/8 turn and completely wrinkle the sidewall without the tyre slipping on the tarmac. This is what helps the tyre bite in and achieve grip whereas stiffer sidewall (normal road) tyres will just spin.

What is your rev-limiter set to now then? Does it still make good power at 8,000rpm? Very good info btw zhound.... :)

Cos CONGRATULATIONS Marina all our love and well done girl XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX she is gorgeous, just like her sister. Hugs and KIsses to all of you Robert & Wendy xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Or dragging the handbrake......... (no brakelights ;) ) hehehe

LMFAOOOOOOOOOO You got the wrong end of the stick buddy.......... honest...

Just build up to it, start with small drifts at first. And relax.... Dont be tense, feel what the car is doing. As you get used to it you can predict whats going to happen. The main thing is to override your brain saying "lift the throttle". This is bad when on opposite lock as the car will grip and pitch the way the front wheels are pointing. Feather the throttle off yes, but not shut it completely. Drifting in the wet only needs low speeds, the grunt of the Z will just spin the wheels for you. In the dry (stock Z, mine) you need a bit of speed round a corner so you can get close to the lateral grip of the tyres, couple this with a few horsepower under acceleration and the tyres cannot cope, hence you will slide/drift. A fave corner by me can be taken @ 55mph in 2nd gear, if i gas it too, the rear slides out, gotta be quick with the opposite lock though, comes round quite fast. Ask Cos about my ar$e out action at the Foaming Jug pub meet a couple of years ago lmao... that was fun. :D :D HTH Rob.

750~1000hp V6, 1.5L, weighs 200lbs... Anyone twigged yet? ;) http://www.race-cars.com/engsales/cosworth/1077724596/1077724596ss.htm Never thought I would see a 1980's F1 engine for sale let alone 3 lol There you go, just need to shoehorn it in a Z now........

So it actually worked then??? lol............

Yes lol.......... 20p... I will do a group buy from RS... lol.... anyone else in?? :P :P ;) ;) :D :D

Somebody mentioned a flamer kit a while ago? Just found this by accident (honest............) ;) http://www.globalsources.com/gsol/GeneralManager?&catalog_id=2000000003844&design=clean&language=en&action=GetSupplier&page=supplier/ProductDetail&supplier_id=6008803327710&product_id=8837910820&action=GetProduct

Fantastic........... LMFAO @ that one :D :D

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=32094&item=7911285494&rd=1 Unbelievable. :rolleyes: I thought nothing would shock me after the 'electronic' dump valve..lmfao

hmmmmmm......... ok....... It's nice to know Nissan got it right 14 years ago :D Maybe Alfa need to improve theirs. Thanks for info everybody. Rob

lmao @ andy :D p.s. empty your box please, need to drop you a pm :P X biker......does it drop a gear at 80+mph though???? cheers

Ok, seing as my manual Z is off the road for a while, I have borrowed an Alfa 166 3.0 V6 auto thingy.... I am new to driving auto cars, and was under the impression the gearbox knew exactly what you wanted to do all the time......... So @ like 70-80-90 mph on the m-way, in auto mode, this thing REFUSES to kick down into 3rd, the only way to do it is to switch to sport and do it yourself. It's a bit annoying, as I would have thought it would have figured out itself to drop a cog..... Is this the same on a Z??? Does the auto Z change gear by itself at these speeds? TBH, up to 50mph the thing will go through the gears itself in auto mode no trouble, but after 60 or so, it just stays in 4th. No wars here.....Just information please :P ;) Regards, Robert.

Sorry to hear your bad news. Sounds like I did same thing as you, blasting in 4th @ 120.... go for 5th... get 3rd... owf........ I was catapaulted forward in the seat, saw revcounter comming down from 7500ffs.. but i managed to catch it real quick with the clutch, drove home @ 30mph listening for any noises.. LUCKILY nothing happened. Gearbox... my guess is it's going to be ok. But as to Rev limiter saving you... not possible here, as the car it actually driving the engine, not the 'normal' other way round.

Did you get 4303 mike???

doh!!! 4303 not working for me either................. :( :(

Stuart..........this happened about 4 weeks ago now, just managed to get my ass in gear, get motivated and sort it out. Dave............cheers. Realised when I fitted new handle the door needs painting as it does not cover up the damage... :( :(

Before..... After..... :D Dunno about you lot, but does it make it look more modern?? The door still wants repairing though, but that will have to wait. There is no way to screwdriver my Z any more, I have removed the linkage that connects lock barrel to the door lock. My alarm locks the doors just fine, and also the lock handle in the car works too. If the battery goes flat..... I'll just get in through the boot...lol Thinking about it, I guess S13 guys could do this too, handles look very similair. Was quite easy to too too, remove lock that is in handle and countersink the outside face of the lock hole. This will make it easier to 'blend' the bodyfiller. Turn up a piece of PVC plastic (plastic=no rust/oxidisation) to a nice drive fit into where the lock used to fit. Drive it in with a vice and glue it in place. Now drill 3 holes into it from the outside face of the handle. These must be driled at an angle. This is so the bodyfiller can flow into these holes and when it sets hard it holds real tight. Much better than just applying to a flat face. Now you can apply body filler, and treat it as if it is a normal repair. Many thanks to Jock/Hugh who sent me the handle. You are a star mate :D Robert.

Just a couple of mine. Twin 5" pipes. Zees EX system. http://www.zees.co.jp for more info. Rob.

I remember after my rebuild the oil pump did not want to prime. Was a complete @rse in fact. Solution i found was jack rear up 20 ft (lol), fill sump with 10L of oil....... (yeah i know what your saying, too much oil in sump, it will blow seals. well as 1 piston goes down, 1 is going up?? sump volume stays the same......) Different story with engine fired up tho, crank well immersed in oil is not good. And crank over on starter. Make sure plugs are out, this is so important so as not to pick up your nice new big ends. As soon as needle rises/oil shoots out guage hole, I drained out the extra oil. Job done. EDIT.... Fill new (dry) oil filter before fitting too. This will take a surprising amount of oil.....