MarkDerby

looks like i will have to fit the complete drive shaft set ... acording to the pdf the Na gear box and TT have the same output spline shafts

there all Add on lower bumpers too

car mad doesnt do rear complete bumpers just add on's

according to this pdf that all the 6 different types of drive shafts share the same fix'ings in the middle ... http://www.z1motorsports.com/PDFs/NATTconversion.pdf

all been going smooth untill tonight to what i have been told the NA Rear half of the drive shaft should Mate up with the Front half of the TT Shaft it dose not they are completely diffrent in size am i doing some thing wrong .. pic below shows rear tt half with front na so u can see size/hole diffrents

i have Tein HA's and there good ride is a little stiffer than stock but u'd expect that from coilovers

thats strange not having both o2 holes .. but it will be ok with just one sensor

any one dealt with this guy from Poland ? as i'm interested in getting this its a complete bumper made out of fiber glass ... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110709203904&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123

its far easyer taking box out with engine ... no need to faff with the top 2 bolts or trying to part and reline the gear box back up when its in the car edited get the car up on Ramps at front and axel stands at the rear u will need a Jack to support the gear box a little when u start to take engine out all so Do not take the drive shaft out of the box you will get oil everywhere best thing to do is tape or use string the shaft in place so it doesnt slide out disconnect exhaust pipes remove heat shield undo Center drive shaft bearing and center Bolts if Manual u will need to take off the Gear Leaver 3 nuts 1 bolt&nut if auto just the Leaver beside of gear box undo plug all wires on gear box clutch slave and starter motor wires or take it off Gear box support ... drop the sub fame by 1" disconnect steering joint from rack undo the engine mounts from bottom disconnect batt or take out undo all wires from top of engine take off all boost pipes remove radiator and pipes all belts remove fan and fan unit undo AC pump and let it hang in front of sub frame take off the alternator take of the steering pump and tie it up to the front of the car u may want to undo the bolts to the pass pot heater water pipes at the rear need to be disconnected top engine mount bolts oil cooler pipes down on the left side when lifitng the engine there are two wires that are bolted to the back of the engine undo these when half lifted

u mean font half of the drive shaft ... no diff right ?

take your time taking the engine out quick run down of what to do disconnect exhaust pipes remove heat shield undo Center drive shaft bearing and center Bolts if Manual u will need to take off the Gear Leaver 3 nuts 1 bolt&nut if auto just the Leaver beside of gear box undo plug all wires on gear box clutch slave and starter motor wires or take it off drop the sub fame by 1" disconnect steering joint from rack undo the engine mounts from bottom disconnect batt or take out undo all wires from top of engine take off all boost pipes remove radiator and pipes all belts remove fan and fan unit undo AC pump and let it hang in front of sub frame take off the alternator take of the steering pump and tie it up to the front of the car u may want to undo the bolts to the pass pot heater water pipes at the rear need to be disconnected top engine mount bolts oil cooler pipes down on the left side think thats about it

i wasnt on planning on running dual Maf .. its just it wont run with One like they say it will the center section of the pipe is joined/open to each other so when its got both filters on its getting un metered air and this is giving it a problem

yeah thats spot on ... i normaly use my tow rope ... but just last time i used to 1.5" wide strap with buckle on it .. when u do lift the engine strap it around the 4 front plenum tubes should just give u the right angle to get the engine out and back in

its about 375ish for engine and gear box together ebay sell the lifts for about £130 for 1>2t

no its a heat shield for the oil pipe if your referring to the one in your pic in the middle and the one to the upper left pic think is the egr pipe with shield its quite hard to remember what the parts look like with just a small pic sorry edit that you taken the pic above from batt tray place .. its the Main AC pipe that goes through the bulk head

spotted what ? theres nothing to see Edit .. Doh! lol

yes removing the sensor will give u better clearance for that top right bolt but be careful as the sensor hex are not the best make sure you use the correct and decent spanner

yeah i have the Rear Half of the n/a center drive shaft .. just looks like the bolts / hole spacing are smaller thanks for the link

got another Q for the Guys thats done the conversion Just taken me 3 hrs to get the hole lot off .. the 2 bolts i had a problem with was the ones that hold the Hicas on other than that all was fine .. i dropped the diff with subframe togeather all my new subframe/diff/arms/hubs have been painted up and ready to fit the Drive shafts ... i Have both half's of the N/A drive shaft Will the Rear part of the drive shaft Mate up to the TT front center drive shaft ? and is the NA diff a limited slip one ? and all so How do you fill it with oil ? Cheers

well depends on what u call big power .. hopefully around 400>450ish plus i just liked the idea of having the filters down each side

could of told me this before .. lol

ok how does that work .. the Map sensor .. have just seen the selin maf translator @ $275 ...

just installed this system and i think i'm missing something now i have Maf on one side and another on other side .. with one connected up the car will no run untill the other side is blocked off i assume its becuse theres un mtetered air getting in to the engine by that side is there such thing as a Dummy Maf where it gets connected up to the other so it works ?

why there is such a high price on that its because they dont have any in stock ... rather than take it down and re list it ... ( re list fees ) they will up the price so you are not going to buy it and when it comes back in to stock the price will be changed again its just another way of getting around stupid ebay fees

ok what i said above is the wrong way round to the pic here (Com) (No)