MarkDerby

you dont plumb it to the Bov's ... Bovs will open when there is only negative Vac ( Off throttle ) it should go to the main inner hard Boost pipes ( ones to carbs ) but how u have T'd both Turbos and Both outlets is correct (In) COM is Boost IN ( hard Pipes ) (Out) NO is to Wast gate

you better off getting a remap chip if u want to run 14psi .. other than that stock engine will be fine

i'm using these... thin profile will fit all wheels Complete nuts and 4 locking ones http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-100-NX-Alloy-Wheel-Nuts-Tuner-Red-x-16-/150689298574?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item2315c8388e

that would rule about 80% of the main problems think TPS can do it or Problem with Auto box .. not 100% sure on that

35mm hose will be the ones going to the heater matrix ... ( thickness ) others around that place are 2 smaller ones for turbo water cooling but there about 3>4" long about 12*mm and two others yet again for turbo water right down on the back of the engine to the left EGR removal is a pain in the ass with engine in place eaither way plenum pull makes it alot easer

knock sensor boost leak miss fire due to injector/coil plugs

Nice wheels m8 just what i have ...

could just move the needle and set it with GPS .. ?

i see just the other way round ...

you going to do the conversion as well marty ?

N/A Diff Conversion does it need N/A Speed Sensor ? going to do a Conversion soon and have all the items needed does it need the N/A Speed sensor as thinking about it the sensor is on the gearbox and it wouldnt know what RPM/rotation the wheels will be outputing Cheers Mark

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its only a VW .. best thing that could happen to it ..

on the turbo downpipes .. that your trying to take off will have 2 nuts and 2 bolts per turbo .. these are on the down pipes them self .. u can undo two from the bottem and 2 from the top ( per Turbo ) to get to the Top Bolts u need to take off the Black Turbo Pipes from either side of the engine

first pic bolts look to be the Turbo Core bolts not the downpipes ... edit thay look like gearbox bolts too 2nd pic is the backet brace for the gearbox .. Not those Bolts ..

have you taken the boost/hard pipes off from the top ... its tight but u can just get your arm/hand down there to do the top bolts edit ..sorry i see u said passenger lower ones ... u can get to them easy from below and same with top ones ^^^^

thanks again ...

very nice but to euro looking ... its a Jap car not a Merc/VW and orthers alike

http://www.sr20tuning.com/Blitz_Powemeter_i-D_manual.pdf just trying to wire up my blitz power id and in the manual is say Wire the Orange wire to the ECU Speed out put .. i assume its talking about the Speed dial .. what pin on the cluster does it need connecting to Cheers Mark

yes its normal my Power Light come on for a few sec when starting the car ..

take the units out the car .. pop the main Black Plastic shroud off ( 8 clips ) then on the back pannel there is 4 screws that hold the Rev counter in place and its the contacts too undo it and swop or replace ...

15 btdc the Netrul and Revese Wires are on the harnce just where the main driver light is there is a faq with pics .. i just did mine at the ecu

Auto Gear box only ... not manual

4 liters with oil filter and cooler

Anthony .. your gonna have to remake the wastgate actuator brackets as both turbos need clocking to make them fit the space good luck with the project on another note .. my engine fired up first time