MarkDerby

Yes it was whoops with pump ... But least its new now I thought as much with bearing after doing some reading on net Thanks for all your help jimmer, jaffa & others

u still be slow anyways .... cuz red is faster ... lol

just had another look .... Found it .. :) my garage is in a utter mess right now .. all engine parts spanning over 3 work tops lol gimmy your addy u want it sending to

slight prob ... i can not find it

ya ok

lol about the same time i need it haha ... will send it u

Manual Gear box Input/layshaft Bearing size does any one know the size of hand ... seems to be a lot of play since the box is out and i have a few weeks spare i may as well replace it Mark

how quick u needing ... as i can lend u one

rad needs to come out m8

to right your being paranoid u need to be in my shoes ... lol

get your self on to talkford.com .... its a very good site for Ford Mondeo's i help out on there

all roof lining and plastic window,side trims in back

yeah sound good... should come out easy mine did .. just 2 10mm headed bolts holding in

Yeah they are more + more cost on re bore and according to tech'ys really advised against going to the size 88/89mm due to not much of performance gain but all so leaving the bores quite thin the bores are not scored surprisingly but more transfered alloy from the piston on to it one thing i am doing now is completely removing AC ...

i'm using a autobhan Front mounted .. ( HKS Copy )bit of hearsay about it ppl saying its not the same bla bla but i have seen hks one and its identical its very large in size would say each side is about 3>4 times bigger than OEM

yeah find and come up with a Price ... saves me $99 dolla

crank is fine u got one for sale ? i have AFR wide band gauge ... but ..... i been reading it wrong :)

List update 87.5mm Wiseco Pistons & eagle Rods.............................................. ..$1098 ARP Head/Main Stud Kit............................................... ....................$265 ACL STD Rod Bearings.......................................... ............................$55 ACL STD Main Bearings.......................................... ..........................$72 VTC Springs........................................... ..............................2x$18=$36 Full Engine Gaskets set inc Oil seals,valve seals and Cometic Head.........$355 Ring Comp.............................................. ........................................$17 PCV Valves............................................ ...............................2x$11=$22 Timing belt sprocket..........................................................................$24 OEM Oil Pump...................................................................................$170.56 NA Oil Jet's............................................................................3x$33..$99.00 Postal $170 with other parts in box Total .................................................. ............................................$2383.25 Total UK .................................................. .......................................£1518.89 Main Block Rebore..........................................................................£180 Heads Skimming & Valve cut inc fitting all stem seals £100 Per Head = £200 Total Price up to date £ 1898.89 Mikey ( need to know Piston Size size ) Pistons are $595 egr delete $32 bit of p&p & duty if any Gonzo ( need to know bearing size ) ACL Rod Bearings $55 ACL Main Bearings $72 bit of p&p & duty if any Mikey, Gonzo i will be about ready to order by the end of the month Is there anything more i should be thinking about ?

can some one help decipher the main bearing sizes as the main nissan one are done by each size but the acl are done by one size i worked out that my Rod bearings are all Standard size grade 0 http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/FAQpages/bearings.aspx

had to cut and chisel it off ... but can swop it with another one .. oh and i need a new oil pump i kinda damaged it :) so here are some more piccys Crank looks spot on No Marks on it what to ever Beaings are good but worn out 2 are showing some brass Piston 6 has a nice hole in it

any tips on how to get the Timing Belt Crank Sprocket Gear off ? all the main crank pully is off doest want to budge and i dont want to be wedging/prising against the oil pump

understood .. i been waiting for JD to sort me a chip out ... abit more tailored to my car but i know hes been away and biz but still waiting

so just checked yes it was 14>15 on the AFR and that being limit of lean should be on around 11>12 like said before but when i was doing some read ups it said 14>15 was normal for petrol cars .... anyways so to get the afr right will need a remap right ? and whats with the NA oil sprays thought the turbo ones was better ? just found this info from this website http://rusubaru.com/afrs-101/ AFRs 101 afrAFR stands for Air-to-Fuel Ratio, a mass ratio of air to fuel present during combustion and is measured by an oxygen (O2) sensor. It is extremely important to know what AFRs are and how they are used in tuning, or you will not be able to tune your car. There are several common fuels used in automotive applications and each fuel has different properties. The properties you should know most about are the stoich value of the fuel mixture and Lambda. Basically, stoich value is an Air-to-Fuel Ratio at which the given fuel undergoes complete combustion. This value also corresponds to Lambda value of 1.0 (Lambda 1.0 = complete combustion). For example, gasoline has a stoich value of 14.7:1, this means that when 14.7 units of air get added to one unit of gasoline, that unit of gasoline undergoes complete combustion – when it’s done burning, there is no more gasoline left over. Lambda 1.0 for gasoline means that gasoline underwent complete combustion. Methanol, depending on your source, has a stoich value of 6.4:1 – it burns completely with only 6.4 units of air per unit of methanol. Below is a table of stoich values for common fuels: Fuel Stoich Gasoline 14.7 : 1 Natural gas 17.2 : 1 Propane (LP) 15.5 : 1 Ethanol 9 : 1 Methanol 6.4 : 1 AFR values higher than stoich mean that you have a LEAN mixture, values lower than stoich mean that you have a RICH mixture. For example, for gasoline 16:1 mixture is lean, while 12.5:1 is rich. Leaner mixtures provide more power and hotter temperatures, thus increasing the chances to run into high exhaust gas temperatures (EGT), detonation and engine damage. richer mixtures tend to provide more torque and lower/safer combustion temperatures. Ideally, you want to run as lean as possible without running into high EGTs or detonation. Read more about EGTs Side Note: At full load on a gasoline forced induction engine (without alcohol injection) an AFR reading of 12.5:1 indicates a leaner mixture, while 10.5:1 indicates a richer mixture. Good AFR for a forced induction engine at full load is 11.8:1. Any fuel burning at its stoich understandably produces peak power, and generates a lot of heat. More heat than your engine can take at a full load. At full load you have to add more fuel than necessary for complete combustion – the extra fuel goes towards cooling the combustion process. In forced induction engines under lots of boost and at full load, a lot of extra fuel has to be introduced to effectively cool the combustion process to sustainable temperatures. Exactly how much fuel you need to add for cooling is determined from your AFR readings. On a forced induction gasoline engine you should be targeting 11.8:1 AFR for good power and efficient cooling. This 11.8:1 AFR corresponds to a Lambda value of 0.8 (think of it as 80%) – and this in turn means that at 11.8:1 AFR, 80% of gasoline undergoes combustion and 20% of the total gasoline injected into the cylinder goes towards cooling the combustion process. With alcohol injection, you can use alcohol/water mix to replace those 20% of gasoline used for cooling. Alcohol/water is much more efficient at cooling that gasoline. Plus you’ll get a better fuel mileage. Read more about alcohol injection, tuning for alcohol injection and how much alcohol you can inject. You cannot tune your car without knowing your AFR during the pull at any given point in the RPM range. Stock turbo Subarus come with a narrowband O2 sensor, which is only capable of reading AFRs from about 12.5:1 to about 15:1. In order to be able to tune your car, you will have to install a wideband AFR sensor, that will allow you to read AFRs from about 9:1 to about 25:1. Read more about the proper mod path. To sum it all up: AFR is air-to-fuel ratio stoich value is an AFR at which the fuel burns completely each type of fuel has a different stoich value Lambda 1.0 means complete combustion for any given fuel, Lambda 0.8 means 80% fuel goes towards combustion, and 20% goes towards cooling the combustion process alcohol/water mix injected into the cylinder provides much better cooling than extra gasoline you must have a wideband oxygen (O2) sensor to be able to tune your car

I may be wrong on that I will check tomorrow it could be 13/14 ... So u say its running lean if its not what u said .... So how To get it to run more rich ?

AFR sits around 14>15 .... 16psi thought about pcv valves but that wouldn't explain oil in the intercooler thats before inlet/pcv ...