oobumblebeeoo

I have a few of these I have spare second hand after doing my lock, I could send you one. It's a right !!!!! to get all this back in, so expect to get a bit peed off and angry lol... especially with the light going fast at the moment!! I found I have to keep a torch constantly on inside the door to see what I was doing, just don't pull on anything, get the handle in after putting the plastic bit on and circlip, put your 10mm hex nuts back on THEN put the two connecting rods on... I also found I had to do the handle rod first, then lock rod after due to the space restriction........ expect the usual cuts 'n' stuff lol Take your pick........... these are spare, I think the plastic clip off the passenger/drivers side are actually the same (someone correct me if I'm wrong!!).

Hi, I recently took my dash to bits, fitted LED bulbs in my clocks and put everything back together, only thing I never put back was a bulb in my parking brake light in the clocks... When I turn my key to on the Turbo Timer does not light, countdown or anything, I have tried resetting it was the two reset buttons it says in the manual but nothing. Only thing it does do is beep when I turn the ignition off nd pull out the key (like it did when the timer counted down and switched the engine off itself)?? Any ideas?? Is it me, or? Maybe a fuse has gone somewhere? I heard the Turbo Timer has a fuse inside it somewhere. Thanks, Ant

hi guys, Just wondered why my z stalls after engaging reverse sometimes? Good news: finally up to £611 on the 28th of this month to get the heads skimmed and gaskets done. Woo! Wondering whether to get a full check of engine and all parts after overheating before doing the job? *thinks* wonder how much Jeff does the full check over and work for? Pm me a price JeffTT.... Thanks.

ok guys, thanks for the heads up =)

sound good

Hi peeps, Recently bought some UK clocks for my jap TT and it seems to clock up miles ok (rear of the uk plugs were different to the Jap ones to had to transplant the actual clock from the uk to jap housing, then the plugs would fit from the loom)... anyway, when I turn the key to accessory, the milage needle jumps a bit... really quick up to about 40mph, then goes back to zero. All seems ok, but can anyone tell me why it does this? I don't recall my jap one doing this. :helpsmilie: Thanks, Ant

VECTRA666 - Thanks bud! =0)

Yes, I have a few pics... Will post now... Me not in work today................... One word and it's white! OK, here's the instruction... Thanks to Groover goes first as he gave me the door handle wire colours to find pos/neg for the led in the handle. I did try a 3mm led first in the actual ring of light around the lock, but this hot spotted like a bugger and didn't look that cool after, so did away with the idea and went with this one (someone gave me the idea on here, so thanks to them also!). Anyway... First I cut the cable to length (you can but this speaker cable for about 12p a metre in Wilkinson!), soldered it onto the back of the led, heat shrunk and tinned the connection end of the loom ready for soldering. I ordered some 3mm LEDs from eBAY with resistors supplied for free (ultrabright white waterclear), drilled a 3mm hole in the top of my handle from the backside (the side inside the door as it's impossible to get to from the correct side) and put the LED in the hole with some epoxy resin. You will see that when you go to drill the hole that the plastic surround of the door handle gets in the way and you can pop this up off of the retaining metal to get your drill bit in there to drill (after you epoxy the led in there the pressure of this plastic helps to keep the LED in place over night)... You will also see that from the back of the handle the wire runs to the left going to the loom, so make suer you bend those led legs before you heat shrink the resistor and cable into place without breaking them trying to do it later! Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the back of it, but it's similar to my lit rear reflector mod. Any questions, then ask, here to help! P.S: http://www.goodwillsales.com is the guy I have been getting all my LED supplies from.

Sorry guys, been away, yeah they are on all the time with the sidelights... F!ck the police, they should be out catching real criminals. vectra666 - Thanks bud.

Thanks guys, will have a look tomorrow =0)

All the rods seem connected? There is one coming from the handle itself which is a right !$*@ to do, this goes to the adjustable blue bit that pushes down to open the door (not sure what adjustment would do!?). Then there is one that operates from the barrel that activates the central locking actuator; and from there it seems to push the door locking bit for the inside of the door (as you're sitting in the car that lock/unlock the locks). Anyone got any diagrams on this? The 300zx service manual is a jumble and explains nothing, I can't see the problem either.

Hi guys, I've been away ages taking the car dash to bits and converting...... I managed to get all my stuff done; pods converted to white led writing with red led selector on/off for the switches and my rear bumper reflector lights... Also a new addition.... Managed to light my door handles (in white led)!! :cool3: Also managed to fix my drivers door lock and get it working on the central locking system again by adjusting the three screws... Only thing is (here comes the question...) The drivers lock is activating the central locking but not locking the drivers door...???? I can still pull the handle and open the door. :censored: Any ideas you big load of experts lol ??? Thanks, Ant

Still think the Z32 is best without boot spoiler as they spoil the lines... it looks sick this!... I want! lol

I second spoilerless and still waiting for car.mad to do his perspex strip replacement =) *hint, hint, nudge, nudge*

Kaza-Steve: *Hmmmmm.... Thinks*

Oh lovely Groover! Groove Is In The Heart mate! lol (song by DeeLite) Cheers bud, well chuffed.

Bloody hell, good link, some animal hacked my centre console and threw a double din in there all wonky with some card to stop it moving about *anger* Hence buying a stereo surround from vodkashots...

Does anybody know what colours the +/- wires are in the window control bulb part of the loom? (the bulb that lights up the door controls when the headlights go on). I am fitting one 3mm ultra bright led per door to my (wait for it) 'original car spare illuminating ring bulb holders' that will be soldered into this part of the loom. Multimeter shows 11v with alternator not running, so will go with a 12v resistor for these. On my JDM Z32 there is no loom for the plugs; plus I could not fit these anyway as they are U.S and are the wrong way around (originally bought for the plastic bits that the circlips keep on). Bulb will be going into where the original green led is in this photo (note the black and white +/- wires there) Note the microswitch at the top everybody talks about; I have been told that on the U.S cars, when you pull the drivers handle it lights up both locks for 7 seconds as well as the internal dome light and the ignition ring. (Correct me if I'm wrong)

Just bought 4 of these from the U.S today. I cannot use the dome light/ignition barrel light mechanism unless it goes on the passenger door for obvious reasons. Was going to measure the bulb and retro fit these, I bought these for the plastic bit on the back of the barrels with the circlip as they.... umm... break.... a bit.......... lol, and to see what led ultra bright white led bulb I can illuminate my current handles with. The 2 parts of loom and both plugs will not go anywhere inside my door I don't think anyway as the JDM loom never included this. Wrong or right anybody? Hope this helps? I would love to see a 300zx with this feature already done on here, maybe I will be the first? lol **russles around in garage for soldering iron licking lips**

Sounds good

I like the one with no spoiler at all... Come on car.mad, where's that strip so I can take my '89 on off? lol

Thanks peeps and all good advice, just been told the £600 is for both heads skimmed, gaskets and all labour, not bad. Quite lucky I suppose. Still p'd about the head anyway, just has to sit there looking all sorry for itself lol Probably will buy thermostat, water pump and stuff for it as well as that bypass. Been looking into running it 100% glycol after it's all done to keep parts in good shape (and running life) and to raise the boiling point so it should cool the block better instead of the water boling inside along with a uprated oil cooler and koyo rad, any ideas on this?

Damn, just been quoted £600 to do the headgasket work, never realised but a mate of mine who is a mechanic used to work on Zeds 24/7 for about 10 years. Got a quote from D2 for £1600... But I think that's for both heads skimmed and the gaskets.

ok update peeps... It went green, not yellow???

There's slight resistance cold yeah, not as free as say a normal electric fan on off...