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bird

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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by bird

  1. Anyone know where to get some of these big ass wheel spacers? I used a guy called martin in the past (mwtech) but he doesn't seem to be around anywhere ese days and I know he was very sick the last time I spoke to him. Not sure if this kind of thing can be custom made easily enough
  2. Just been and measured up. So, there 12-13 mm difference between the original and new wheels. Half an inch basically
  3. Perfect, thank you. As for the rears, they currently sit pretty perfect., although I have new wheels, they're the same as the old olds. Might be worth me trying to measure the offset of the corrent/old wheels as they don't actually say
  4. Thing is, I want the wheel to sit right in the arch's so a spacer is probably the best bet, just need to know the best size
  5. So what size spacer do I need
  6. Yeah this is it. I need to think about both. The current wheels were fine. Same type and size but don't know the offset sadly
  7. Front is 18x8 ET 50 Rear is 18x10 ET 56 - - - Updated - - - The problem is finding these wheels. Not been available for years
  8. That was my thought. But then I'm thinking, maybe just one of those 5mm ones would fix the issue rather than having the expense of 25mm hubcentric ones - - - Updated - - - 8 inch mate The rear is 10 inch and A 56+ offset - - - Updated - - - I thought that and was debating on chopping them down but then thought, it's best not
  9. So, I bought some replacement antera 309'd and found I balls'd up xos I didn't check the offsets... They were stated in the advert so completely my fault. So, the front have an offset of 50... FFS!!! off a Honda S2000. Anyway, tried to fit and of course, won't go over the brakes. I have 20mm hubcentric spacers so tried with them but still won't fit due to the wheel bolts hitting the mounting plates. Any ideas? I'm thinking, could a shop drill where the bolts are touching or just get some normal spacers 5 or 10 mm) and use them too?
  10. Looking good mate. One day, I may even get mine out of the loft :laugh:
  11. I do get what you mean. As for styling, the wheels are staying the same, Antera 309's but I've had to buy a new set which are in great condition. As for the rest of the styling, its again going to be pretty much as it was. I made loads of 'improvements' following the make my zed look better thread. The last piece of that was the stillen type 3 front lip which is here. I need to decide on what side skirts will be beat to get though
  12. There's grey out the window. I do love my black, just not sure whether metallic or just plain black.
  13. I'm not too keen on silver albeit some look nice. I love that blue one but I already have a blue one Lol. I have to admit some white ones are nice
  14. Any pictures of it Richard?
  15. What do we think is the best colour on a zed. Or just nice colours in general. I need to decide on one. I think I'm gonna be going black again but then I'm completely unsure what to go for, like, metallic, straight black etc. What are peoples thought
  16. I'm not so sure I have this ball vent lol
  17. Do you know whether all the doors etc are the same out of interest? Just wondering if it's just the ecu and pods need changing or other stuff
  18. Yeah, think the seat belt location will change along with the other stuff kind of thing. But yeah, I just think that might be the way to go long term. The current shell has a couple of rust spot (both arches, a could I spots near the back lights too... Other than that and the rot where the 'issue' is, the current car seems good. But fixing all these little bits might mean it costs as much to fix as the replacing of the shell
  19. The seat belt location... And I have a series 2 interior lol. Isn't there a difference in the air con controls too? Edit... The car is red too so I'll need to change that lol
  20. So, I already found a good shell which only has about 60k mileage. It's a series 1 sadly lol but the price point is right. I'm going to have it painted while the engine is out so the engine bay etc is done too. I guess I don't know how much of a swap it'll be as such as I'll be taking all the suspension across, the engine and gear ox as well as the interior. Not really sure how much more there is I could be swapping really
  21. I think to get the current shell right itd be just as dear as buying a rolling shell. Surely, its just engine and box swapping over then the interior. I could do the interior no bother, had it all out before and was pretty easy and straight forward. Not sure how simple the electrics are but can it really be that hard? I can do all the suspension stuff myself too which again isn't that hard, I even have access to ramps for that. I guess I could get a garage to do the engine and box etc so I have a car there then I do the other easy stuff if that makes sense. I wouldn't think the engine and gearbox etc would be too hard for a garage?
  22. I spoke to a couple of body shops initially and they didn't really want the job. The welding needed for the hole has the loom right there so I think that putting them off a little too. Basically they didn't really want the job. Plus its right next to the bracket for the upper control arm and I don't know how far that rust/rot will go before you find good metal to weld to.
  23. Haha. Not so much Jeff, it was sitting with Andy Duff for ages waiting for him to do the engine in the original blue zed I had. I then took the car and all the bits to Phil in Manchester who said I should consider a new shell as the blue UK car was a bit rotten. So I did. Once phil got all the bits he had the lot done including the engine rebuild within a matter of a couple of weeks or so. Really quick.

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