bird

Ah, post 7 believed the wheel was an ET of 56 though:lol: - - - Updated - - - Thanks mate.

Thanks Stephen. So, 30 or 35 mom is the question Lol.

Anyone know where to get some of these big ass wheel spacers? I used a guy called martin in the past (mwtech) but he doesn't seem to be around anywhere ese days and I know he was very sick the last time I spoke to him. Not sure if this kind of thing can be custom made easily enough

Just been and measured up. So, there 12-13 mm difference between the original and new wheels. Half an inch basically

Perfect, thank you. As for the rears, they currently sit pretty perfect., although I have new wheels, they're the same as the old olds. Might be worth me trying to measure the offset of the corrent/old wheels as they don't actually say

Thing is, I want the wheel to sit right in the arch's so a spacer is probably the best bet, just need to know the best size

Anyone know?

So what size spacer do I need

Yeah this is it. I need to think about both. The current wheels were fine. Same type and size but don't know the offset sadly

Front is 18x8 ET 50 Rear is 18x10 ET 56 - - - Updated - - - The problem is finding these wheels. Not been available for years

That was my thought. But then I'm thinking, maybe just one of those 5mm ones would fix the issue rather than having the expense of 25mm hubcentric ones - - - Updated - - - 8 inch mate The rear is 10 inch and A 56+ offset - - - Updated - - - I thought that and was debating on chopping them down but then thought, it's best not

So, I bought some replacement antera 309'd and found I balls'd up xos I didn't check the offsets... They were stated in the advert so completely my fault. So, the front have an offset of 50... FFS!!! off a Honda S2000. Anyway, tried to fit and of course, won't go over the brakes. I have 20mm hubcentric spacers so tried with them but still won't fit due to the wheel bolts hitting the mounting plates. Any ideas? I'm thinking, could a shop drill where the bolts are touching or just get some normal spacers 5 or 10 mm) and use them too?

Looking good mate. One day, I may even get mine out of the loft :laugh:

I do get what you mean. As for styling, the wheels are staying the same, Antera 309's but I've had to buy a new set which are in great condition. As for the rest of the styling, its again going to be pretty much as it was. I made loads of 'improvements' following the make my zed look better thread. The last piece of that was the stillen type 3 front lip which is here. I need to decide on what side skirts will be beat to get though

There's grey out the window. I do love my black, just not sure whether metallic or just plain black.

I'm not too keen on silver albeit some look nice. I love that blue one but I already have a blue one Lol. I have to admit some white ones are nice

Any pictures of it Richard?

What do we think is the best colour on a zed. Or just nice colours in general. I need to decide on one. I think I'm gonna be going black again but then I'm completely unsure what to go for, like, metallic, straight black etc. What are peoples thought

I'm not so sure I have this ball vent lol

Do you know whether all the doors etc are the same out of interest? Just wondering if it's just the ecu and pods need changing or other stuff

Yeah, think the seat belt location will change along with the other stuff kind of thing. But yeah, I just think that might be the way to go long term. The current shell has a couple of rust spot (both arches, a could I spots near the back lights too... Other than that and the rot where the 'issue' is, the current car seems good. But fixing all these little bits might mean it costs as much to fix as the replacing of the shell

The seat belt location... And I have a series 2 interior lol. Isn't there a difference in the air con controls too? Edit... The car is red too so I'll need to change that lol

So, I already found a good shell which only has about 60k mileage. It's a series 1 sadly lol but the price point is right. I'm going to have it painted while the engine is out so the engine bay etc is done too. I guess I don't know how much of a swap it'll be as such as I'll be taking all the suspension across, the engine and gear ox as well as the interior. Not really sure how much more there is I could be swapping really

I think to get the current shell right itd be just as dear as buying a rolling shell. Surely, its just engine and box swapping over then the interior. I could do the interior no bother, had it all out before and was pretty easy and straight forward. Not sure how simple the electrics are but can it really be that hard? I can do all the suspension stuff myself too which again isn't that hard, I even have access to ramps for that. I guess I could get a garage to do the engine and box etc so I have a car there then I do the other easy stuff if that makes sense. I wouldn't think the engine and gearbox etc would be too hard for a garage?