lil Stevie

ok fella, just let me know. don't spose anyone know's how much z center sell them for? the sites down at the moment.

deffinatly agree there, if i was gunna go chrome, i'd just scrape off the rubber n buff the sh*t out of them.

mite have to look into that, however if i have to go to the trouble of taking them off to spray them, i may aswell just buy new ones. depending on the price though.

This link is awsome, like the detailed photo's. do new strips come with clips aswell?

did u get a price on them? by work do you mean nissan?

what are my options to make them look a little better? i know new ones can be bought, but what are waiting times like, i'd also assume i'd be better fitting them before a respray. anyone had them sprayed? how did they turn out? anyone removed them and had the gap smoothed in? pictures would be nice for a real idea. this is there current situation [/img] zooms not that great, but you can see the chrome shinning through, and the targas look even worse. all oppinions appreceated!

[quote=JeffTT; However I have spotted something that might point to why you cannot find the correct plug, there are a series of connections that are non standard in the second pic, these suggests the loom has been repaired or new injector or coil patch leads added, it is just as likely the det sensor plug has been removed and the cable connected directly. You need to check in the area in the centre back of the engine, in fact the det sensor connector originally fitted on a metal bracket pointing upwards. If you just cannot find the correct plug or cable then the same resister work around can be done at the ecu in the passenger footwell. Jeff TT I've found the corect plug i think [/img] It was buried under the red bar/pipe. the female side had a nick in the cable which then broke when i pulled it out [/img] As my luck would have it, the brake (in the black cable, the photo mite not show to clearly) is to close to the plug itself to fit a crimp on, so a temporary bodge will have to do for now, but i will rectify it when i'm back at work. Is there a way i can test the knock sensor from the male plug? what reading should it be if i stick an ohm meter on it? I would presume it should be 1 meg ohm if i megger it, however just want to check because i don't want to megger it and then end up breaking something else. Also here is a picture of my ecu, if this temporary bodge doesn't work, i'd like to try and short it out at the ecu, but don't know where to start looking. [/img] Chears Steve.

Indeed some new coil packs have been installed, so that would make sense, it seeemed that those 3 plugs were the only ones i could find. however i'll have a look again, and try and get a little deeper. i couldn't find the temp sensor plug either, could you please show me where abouts it should be. [/img] you were pefectly clear on the phone, i just slept since, so it all went a bit foggy. I don't supose you could post a photo of where to install it in the ecu, i've bin told it should be between ports 23 and 50, but i can't seem to find any number references. Thanks.

both the plugs are atached by a single cable somhow, but do you mean the one with the red bit on?

Jeff from zedworld said it was black and white so that was the only one i could find, **** no's what that one does then cos it was unplugged while i was driving it n everything seemed ok, i'll see if i can find one with 2 pins.

jusr wondering if this looked right to anyone, it came up as all clear when i first reset it, then came back after a drive and checked again and the dreaded 34 was back! would like to see some pictures of where to stick it in the ecu if anyone has any [/img] [/img]

[/img] [/img] finally

Sorry the pictures didn't work, attempt 2 [/img] [/img]

i tried to short it out with a resistor, after installing it and resetting the ecu the code came back as 55. so in my success i took it for a spin, then after returning i checked again and the code was back, so i'm guessing it must of come back in as soon as i started the engine? or if the resistor wasn't installed correctly would it still said 34 after resetting it? the picture shows where i've installed it, does this look right to anyone?

excellent guys, very helpfull. just had a quick phone call with Jeff at Z world (boy that guy knows what he's talking about) i'll deffinatly try shorting it out first and see how it goes. hopefully i won't have to be handing over my hard earned cash to the pesky garage.

as in to relocate the whole sensor?

well my boost controller won't go over 6 psi, so i figured that was in safety boost. don't spose you've got a diagram of where to place it on the ecu? spose i could give that a go to see if the boost increases. its massivly over fuelling, i orrigionaly thought that it was a lamda sensor, but after the "propper" diagnosis, they said both lamda sensors were fine and it was just the det sensor.

sorry for being a bit slow, but what are the pelenums? where do you short it? is it actually on the sensor itself? to what i've in told, my understanding is that the sensors in the block is it not? Is the 1Meg ohm a deffinate? i thought i read somewhere that it was 1ohm. resistor shouldn't be to hard for me to get hold of from work. don't supose it would be a good idea though if the engine actually is knocking.

after some "propper" diagnosis my local performance garage has informed me that i need a new det sensor and wiring lume (allthough i told them this when i dropped it off). they're still taking the piss a bit on getting me a quote, however they did say it would take a full day, so i'm estimating about £600 all in. anyone else had one changed at a garage? or is it a do doable job on a drive?

I'd assume the boost would be raised, otherwise it would be pretty pointless installing it. however it is safety boost mode (i think) due to a det sensor fault. the controller won't go over 6psi, so i am assuming it is safety mode. its in the garage on wednesday for a propper diagnosis.

With increasing boost, does that then mean lower fuel economy and then more wear on the engine? is it all a case of "robbing peter to play with paul?" The car has had some slight engine mods such as modified intake, and some hks ssqv dump valves ( i think i've wrote that right) and possibly an uprated fuel pump (unless the standard one hums like a bitch) and a b-spec 2 controller. so my logic tells me that without the map being set up properly after these are fitted its likely to do more harm than good to performance and economy. would that be right?

my local place charges £295 for a standard re-map. just wanting to know how that compares to other prices, and if its really worth it? what benifits does it really hold?

Done, chears fella.

is the number plate bulb fitting the same as the side light fitting?

chears, never fails to help this site!