Big Rod

Haha! Yeah. It turned out to be a blocked expansion tank hose which was causing the pressure to build up and burst the top rad' hose. Took a while to figure out and only discovered it by accident. Glad it wasn't CHG as I initialy thought.

That's the chap. Couldn't remember his moniker. Yes, it's lovely.

I've spotted it before and the owner's quite well known on here but big cahonies driving it in this weather!! My Zed's gone in to have some niggles fixed so I'm using my Pajero and the roads are slippy enough for the tail to break free on that so you must be having a right laugh!! LOL

Ah! Right, I get it now! Even a turbocharged car sucks when it's off boost. DOH! I knew that, I just had difficulty putting two and two together. I'll stop asking stupid questions now. Thanks! ;) ETA, my mate's just dropped of a handful of 1Mo resistors so I'll give that a try at the weekend.

So the feed for the servo assist would come off before the super/turbocharger then rather than be plumbed into the plenum like a N/A. The old 24v Senators used a reservoir with a valve in place to actuate the dual ram induction system as it operated when the throttle was wide open at 4k rpm so there wasn't a significantly lower pressure to scavenge from. I was just wondering if similar systems were utilised elsewhere was all.

Now, there's no need for that!! LOL

Well, I was always under the impression that air was sucked into N/A engines at less that atmospheric pressure hence how you get vacuum assisted brakes. On that subject, out of curiosity, how're the brakes assisted on a supercharged engine? Is there some sort of reservoir that's 'charged' when the engine's 'off boost'?

Stock JDM guage. It used to read 7 on hard acceleration. I know stock guages aren't the best but it's certainly noticeably down on 'oomph'. I've recently had someone attempt to replace the heater matrix so I'm thinking that some fiddling in/around the det' sensor connector may have disconnected/broken it in some way. Thanks a mill' for the replies.

Ta much!

Cool, thanks. So how do I do the resistor trick? Seems a quick way to determine if it's one or t'other.

Do MINES ECUs have a safety map? Reason I'm asking is that my car only seems to be devloping 5psi boost of late. If they do, I figured I'd try the 1M resistor trick to see if that sorts it before I start looking for a boost leak. So can anyone point me to a 'how to' to do the Det sensor short please? TIA

I take it you mean you've replaced all the bushings. Is there a 'how to' guide and supplier of said bushings and what else did you do while it was all out?

Thank you. I had it done this afternoon anyway. The guy really knew his stuff too and I've never seen such an exotic alignment machine, quite remarkable it was. What a difference.

Quick question............ Does the engine have to be running whilst adjustment takes place? Thanks in advance.

I saw that, (and if I'm honest I actually considered it!), but I already have three other cars with towbars so thought it overkill as well as distasteful!! LOL (No offense BTW, your car you do what you want with it!!)

Hehe! I wasn't messing about in the Shug either! I overtook him. ;)

Mid afternoon on Sunday 10th July. Would've waved but I was driving my Shogun so it might not have meant much to you. You had the roof off and A TOWBAR!! :shock:

Easy job?

I'll have 'em checked out. I take it they don't have to be leaking, just worn? What's a set of shocks gonna run me?

Good question. The whole lot I think but I can't remember for sure. Shameful as I was under the car at the time. Damn my memory!

Had new HICAS arms less than a year ago. Keep 'em comin' lads, at this rate I'll be rebuilding the whole rear end!! LOL

Hmm, well there's a thought! Around the same time I changed the wheels, I replaced the exhaust for one that is louder than the previous. That said, it's not much louder on the outside but makes the car reverberate something awful at certain engine speeds.

I guess it's always done this but since I changed my wheels it seems more noticeable and I think it's getting worse. When I go over a bump, (Scottish roads being in the state they are means this happens a lot!), the rear of the car shimmys a bit. I can only think it's like bump steer on the back. As I say it's getting quite disconcerting and I'm getting a little uneasy with the car's straight line stability at motorway speeds. I had the car four way alligned when I has new Hicas arms fitted under a year ago. So is this common/expected or do I need the car realligned or is it time for a Hicas deletion?

I did think on this but thought that although it would level the door, it would also just push the door further back. Might look into this. Thanks for the replies!

Hi, My driver's door drops a few mm when opened and resultantly has 'chaffed' a gouge out of the 'B' pillar. Can I loosen the top hinge where it bolts to the 'A' pillar and knock it forward a little bit to adjust without too much grief? By grief I mean having to remove wings or any other ancilliary parts. Or can/should the hinge pins be replaced? TIA.