Stephen

I recon due to your location and cooler design your measuring the cold side so to speak. As its full flow design and it cools the oil before it passes through the block. So it's reading the cooled oil not the average. And it's constantly being cooled, stay stuck open. Time to test; A. the accuracy of the gauge or its sender, B. the temp differential between pre and post cooled oil. Is it a thermistor style sender?

Shame it's just such an expensive way of doing things.

Cool. I'm thinking about upgrading my rears.

As much as I love the VG, I don't think I'd put it in that. Weight and maintence being the key parts. An SR20 isn't a bad shout. Id be tempted to throw in something modern with a 4 banger. Easily find 100-150hp engines these days that return great MPG. Make it something you can enjoy for the sake of enjoying.

Did you do the bias math?

So sorry if I missed it, what calipers are you using at the back with these SRT8 fronts?

I had a similar thing. The best solution was to use an OEM knob, which is weighted and actually worked better as well.

I get about 85c on both the Zed and the Skoda for oil temp.

Have you driven it yet? You should come on boost noticeably earlier.

I borrowed a pair of these of a mate, not the exact same but very similar. Means you can rest the back end very safely on the rear chassis rails. Makes that whole area nice and open. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cax-3tbc-3-ton-axle-stands/

Enjoy that little Jag, brilliant car and a definite future icon.

Is the "Renault" in the background by chance or design?

You may need a 3/8 one for the turbo bolts mate, don't think there's enough room for the 1/2". Might be able to do it with a UJ.

Yeah why not...:lol:

No reason really, make refitting annoying. As the down pipe is in the way of the bottom two. Also drilling into cast iron would be great fun, esp in that tight space.

Guessing your referring to the three bolt flange on the elbow to cat sections. Only 4 on each turbo.

A good quality 3/8" socket set is what you need for the top ones and a ring spanner for the bottom ones.

Get yourself an angle grinder with some slitting discs bud. If you were still local I'd say bring it over and we'd get it done without too much haselle.

Yeah I've used the tunnel with the van before. Tbh the other clincher was that it took 14 hours door to door on the ferry with boarding delays both sides, you can get to bloody Thailand in that time. The real killer though, nearly £500 return you could go to Spain for not much more all in. With the Skoda having one these efficient new TSI engines and getting about 50 to the gallon in comfort, il just drive all the way to Kent and then across from Calis. Won't save much time in reality but there's the opportunity to sight see, stop and its vastly cheaper. The scratches were just the Cherry.

Hope you have a better experience than me last week. Picked up two scratches from ignorant people on the Skoda last week. Spent the day we got back polishing them out. People are so ignorant. Last time I use the ferry, tunnel from now on.

Nice and tidy. Well done.

I did a thing about this some years back with links to turbo experts etc, so il be brief. Decatting will NOT cause the turbo seals to leak. To be fussy the rear seal isn't even really a seal, it's more like a splash guard. In theory you could run a turbo without a rear seal and it not smoke, the reality is though that other factors come to play. Some have found even with brand new turbos fitted, not reconditioned they have displayed the same symptom and blamed the turbo itself. In short the oil that goes in must have a way out without restriction, the restriction could be in the form of a dirty drain line or excessive crank case gas. It may be that the oil is being sucked out. Imagine the seal as a hole in a wall, the engine in the left the exhaust on the right, the pressure must be equal or lower on the engine side than the exhaust, otherwise the oil takes the path of least resistance (the exhaust) don't forget this could be negative in the exhaust, that's were the old cat business comes in. With a healthy engine, good breather system and healthy turbos there should be no smoke. If there is something's up with one or more. Paul is right, proceeded with caution and the facts. You may get away with it, you may need to make adjustments but simply not running a decat will not damage the turbo all by itself.

I'd just be splicing in a donor with pig tails sod that :lol:

Top left by the BMC. Usually gets tucked down. From memory is a square grey plug.

I hate bleeding Z brakes.