Stephen

right, for some reason. when my battery charge is low the passenger door wont lock, you can do it with akey but it doesnt work with the central locking when i arm the alarm. it does however unlock, and tahst been going on for a while which is fine normally soon as i drive it it charges upo and it works. but since my battery died when my alt died it is doing it constantly. the only time i stopped it when i drove the car every day when i was on holiday the other week. :s maybe the battery just needs a full charge up? any ideas guys? second one much easier is, is there a step by step gyuide for the manual conversion, ive collected the parts list and the wiring mod. i can work out the obvious stuff such as unbolting the box and all that jazz but i want to do it right and i want to do it in a fair amount of time not take a month over it. i was hoping to do it all in a day. i read about a steel line taht runs from the res being impossible to ft with the engine in? anyone shed any light on this?

Whoop, thank god you didnt sell over that

people should not be getting stuff, for free. put in or push off. We have too many taking out without putting in.period.

na sound so much more snorty

ian you get about dont you lol.

good lol

ha i still get their catalgue turn up now and again and go yummmmmmm. although even a 2.8 turbo pushes out a megre 230bhp not much really :( esp when the engine bay is so cavernous you could bolt a space ship in there.

theres two amazing ones in practical classics this month one has a mk3 supra engine in it, id have another capri tomorrow if i could have more than one toy. but i certainly wouldnt be leaving the colonge or essex lump in there bags of shite lol

yeah i agree with ian. is an easy check if nothing else. Do all of the cyldnders flood? or just the same ones each time? the injectors could be failing open. other cause could be air mass meter giving you trouble. mine ideled like bag of crap and wint rev past about 2500 also with the weather recently you may have sucked up some watyer or it could have dribbled onto it, causing itto be buggered. just some thinking points for you.

i still thinking your rad is fooked.

what is your intention mate you seem to be aquiring quite a few parts atm?

that car is in my home town i have never ever seen it before and i do about 30k miles a years in dorset and hampshire....hrm lol dont think it gets out much...

Im 25 with 3 years ncb 3 points paying 800 fully comp I shopped round loads couldnt get any cheaper its a jap tt. Lots wantedme to be 30 I only do 3k a year in it.

Il text you in a minute

its really simple to get rid of the cooler in the rad ian, just connect up a uk spec oil cooler. could even just pass it through some copper pipe temporaliy to test.

well i suppose you need to go through a list really. ;coolant system circulation, you know the pumps good but with the crap flaoting about, you where talking about we dont know if the system has become blocked. a blocked rad will so cause issues. ;i would agree with your thoery on the whole over heating via headgaskets, however like jimmer said if its a slight leak it will only leak and pressuirise the system when the engine is under load whic explains your higher speed issues. youve checked the thermostat and the pressure. i think a sniffer test is due this can be purchased cheaply and they are simple to use, they change colour when they detect excess co2 which indicats exhaust gases leaking into the coolant system. this would also tend to blow water pipes like the small ones at the back of the block etc. you could also do compression and leakdown tests, sure you could borrow the equipment. try for starters running a hose through the rad see how much and how quickly it comes out. these standard rads are classic for blocking up and they werent much cop when it worked properly. process of elimination buddy.

i have some lol brand new set of two lower ones.

Dont get me wrong I do quite like them but theyre a bit soft. The z32 makes them look silly in a straight line, theyre about the same on fuel, more to tax and insure. Not to mention the deprication on them, will be buying tbey to brake for the wheels and gh he brakes if they get any cheaper. If you want a daily theyre plenty out there in that budjet that will be better value for money, snd you dtill have the 300 for driving pr.operly.end

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Box itself is the same an extra bump to do with the starter ispresent, and obviously different speed sensor. Rear diff is shorter geared for acceleration, very good for quarter mile times. And the prop is different on the diff side. The half shafts are 4 bolt rather than 6 but that is irrelivant for most of us, a gtr diff can be mated in inits place to gain extra strength should you require it..... Im very tempted to buy a series 2 na manual to break, just got no where to do it atm :(

First things first do a compression test, sniffer etc. however it def dont sound great, but it doesnt automatically spell the end. If the money etc is there see it as an opertunity, simply buying another will leave you with new unknowns. You could potentially spend engine rebuild money to be no further forward.

Always best to be looking forward when pushing the lightspeed button

Hrm if you could get it moving to test the box its probally a cheap way to getting manual and na gearing on a tt

they do run rich on boost for safety, there are some tests you can do like decelerating from x revs in 3rd etc. could be something moire sinister but if it was just alittle bit an dyou where gunning it then thats probally it

theres a trick you can do by using the alternating current setting on the multimeter what ever the reading is shows what your powerdrain is, or osmething along those lines sorry i cant be more specfic