Stephen

Well essentially a thing called a waste gate. It's a little flap in the exhaust housing of the turbo, once x amount of pressure has been achieved the waste gate opens venting off the air that isn't needed to spool the turbo any faster as its hit the desired level. That preset value is controlled by the actuator, its like a pressure valve. The Actuator activates and deactivates the waste gate. So the flap stays shut allowing you to build boost by passing the maximum amount of exhaust gasses to pass, the subsequently venting off the excess. Going back to that preset value, the stock actuators on the z32 are loaded for 7 psi. By a process of restrictions know as boost jets(yes from factory) and the boost solenoids the actuator is tricked into only seeing 7psi when in reality it is seeing 9psi. This is why safety boost is 7psi. So to increase from the stock 9psi, we do the same trick. Either by process of a manual boost control, electronic boost controller or boost jets. All those pieces of kit essentially do the same thing, fool the actuator into thinking its seeing 7spi at whatever your chosen value is. That is a very simple version of what's occurring. If you disconnected that vaccum line that went to the actuator the turbo would produce boost until it flat lined out, and if the wastegate was fully open your car would be laggy as hell, struggling to spin the turbo. So you need that control. Now for the important bit, YOU MUST MATCH THE AIR IN WITH THE APPPRIATE AMOUNT OF FUEL. By that I mean the car must have a fuel map to match the amount of boost your running, more boost is more air passing through the engine. IF YOU DONT YOUR ENGINE WILL BLOW UP. Either because its way to rich and is drowning the cylinders with fuel, contaminating the oil, lots of black smoke. Or most likely run lean, ie too little fuel for too much air, this will melt the pistons very quickly If you want more power, and your upping the boost you must hap the appropriate map. I would also suggest you had the right supporting mods and service items ticked. Trying to put 400 odd horses through a 15 year old cambelt, Pushing the engine beyond its cooling capabilities or expecting that old clutch to hold onto all this new found power are bad ideas.

Lots of things to do, clean all the connections you can get to. Check the tips voltage and check for boost leaks.

Do not loost the faith, this thing is going to be great.

Hahaha I stand corrected.

Rear speakers, oh pete. Whatever happened to just to "just the basics strip and street" pull the stereo out and stick some damn gauges in the slot.

They did a 40 th anniversary 370, I'd like to see a 50th anniversary z car the 400zx ain't gonna happen though.

Seen photos from these meets before and been tempted to waft on up.

I never minded nights, it was like not really having a job, as every night was a blur. I used to do a set of two shifts 10 till 7 then one 10 till 6, on the 6 o'clock finishes I used to go fishing on the way home till about 9am then home to bed. Alternate weekends bout 5/6 days a week 3/4pm till 9 I had to myself. On Saturdays I finished my week and just stayed up. It's was quite convienent at the time. Wouldn't do it now though, no time for family and friends.

My clutch is slowly loosing pressure and fluid, 30mm over a week I guess. Anyways I suspected it to be the braided line I fitted last summer, bit annoying as I've only done about 1500 miles since then. Another member had the same issue, we both brought them at the same time, so maybe it was a dodgy batch. I checked it today and there's a sweaty patch half way down and a damp patch on the box to correspond. So I'm pretty damn sure this is the problem. Anyone else had this issue? Il be phoning te person who supplied it, anyone know what the cost of a new slave is aswel, that's the only other thing it could be.

From what I've understood there is a motorised valve that opens the flow to and from the block allowing an amount of hot engine water through the heater matrix, bit like a heater in your house. I also think its down behind the stereo on the drivers side. I've so far decided to just open the window and forget about it haha.

Watching closely as mine does exactly this. Apart from one morning it decided to blow cold instead. Pretty sure a motorised valve has jammed in the hot position.

I've worked with Pacu before, some monstrous ones... Nearly a metre in length and almost half a metre in body depth. They are big cumbersome and get wipped up pretty easy. Jeremy wade the other article is about, makes a great adventure programme but its an adventure programme not an angling programme, John Wilson fished for Pacu in one of this fishing adventures episodes, they were catching them on cubes of mellon for a laugh on the jetty in front the hotel. They are hardly a intense finicky and tasking game fish. From experience of working with them, and watching them destroy Iceberg lettuce and tomatoes, they get wound up quick as they are very greedy. I wouldn't trust my plums floating around when they are hungry, look too much like grapes esp to a dumbass vegetarian that's whipped up in a feeding frenzie. The amazon is full of nasties, some very big some very little. Pacu though are not on my list of things id like to avoid, I honestly think the ball incidents are simply accidents by a dim fish. Not a sly predator that is seeking out tastey sweedish balls lol.

mine was doing this, plugs were shite. new plugs problem solved. Does the car make a little popping noise?

130 is pretty low 150 to 170 is considered healthy.

That's a load of *****cks! Pacu would freeze to death in Sweden for starters over the winter. Secondly they are almost exclusively vegitarian, if they went for balls its only because its mistaken identity for the fruits/nuts floating about. Also if you can't tell the difference between a pacu and a piranha from the outside you need your eyes tested, they roughly 3 times the size as an adult, jet black and well the facial structure is wrong. Even as juv's they're are significantly different.

Looks tidy that's for sure

The whole of Europe needs to get over it, speed itself doesn't kill. The problem is people that take the piss. Doing 45mph past a school at 8am you deserve what you get, doing 90 or even 100 on an empty motorway that's no problem. The limits should be guidelines and olivine should take common sense into consideration. All this if your doing over a 100 you will go to court and probably get a ban business is ludicrous.

Any more thoughts on this? Drove through the men dips on the way home from work on Thursday. Lovely.

Might be worth putting a few adverts into the magazines, banzai, jap performance and practical classics to name a few. Once things are more concrete and closer obviously. Keep us posted rich.

Ams do a header tank that neatly sits next to the battery if your so inclined.

You can pop the maf connection off and reset the ecu, by unplugging the battery for half hour or so. It should then purr like a kitten upto 3k. Try some tests first, can't scrap a zed for a dirty connection.

It's an anti bullying button! 999 for the forum, there not fussed about you loosing your cat up a tree real problems only I Spose.

Yeah simple and lonnnnnnng winded. One of those I wish I never started this jobs.

I'm not allowed to fill up a bp, they like you to use supermarkets. :(

If your certain you have a spark, the next thing is fuel. You can do three things, turn the engine on. And place a long handled screwdriver on the injector it should pulse or click. They ll should and it should be the same click. Next is clean the connector and injector terminals, i bet they are green. You can also take a multimeter, select ohms and test the resistance coming back, the injector should give you around 13ohms, significantly higher or lower and it's jammed open/shut. That should give you a result. The third test is one I've not done myself, so you would need to look it up, take a 9v battery and some wire hook up the injector to the battery and it should squirt fuel into the bore which will be visable through the plug hole. As I say I haven't done this myself so you need to look it up. If the injector comes back fine, and it's still not firing. You need to check your getting a signal/power to the injector. If all that checks out fine, then compression is your last variable really. However this is unlikely. If you had lost compression you would be burning oil or water or both, not only would this make the plugs look horrid, I'd expect you to notice this when you fitted the new ones. You would also likely be doing a good impression of a red arrow.