Stephen

Looks like a nice clean and tidy uk model.

It's not a foam one Pete?

Lol! My pocket went mad, email notifications popping up on my phone. Was a good idea if it had stayed on the forum rather than email alerts. I also liked the idea about being able to tag people in so they know you have referenced them, for parts etc.

I won't be in my 50s for another 24 years I'm a young tear away lol. Also you may be able to get restrictors, they pop in the tail pipe and quieten down the exhaust, cheap temporary measure.

More members in their 50s than 20s

Take some pics lets see what's on it. Most common tend to be japspeed or mongoose.

Sorry I couldn't make ittoday, I was looking at flooring and paint....purchased a table..and sorted my clutch out lol. OH I also went to work and went fishing. Props to gaz for helping you out have some rep gaz.

If the weather is anything like what it is here be very careful. It's easy to forget how unforgiving they can be in the wet. Bet your psyched though

Google 300zx PVC valve you will soon find labeled pictures :)

There should be pictures in the manual. Stand at the side of the car on the passenger side. Looking from the the battery follow the engine left towards the front of the car, roughly level with where the fuel lines cross over and connect from the inner wing to the engine, you will see a thick 20mm odd diameter hose on the underside of the plenum. This connects to a threaded stud in the plenum. That will be it.

Yeah I noticed my pocket went spastic

May have been that the car was overfueling due to the maf issues, once your getting warm your burning off the shit in the exhaust. Have a search through my posts and you will see a classic video of turbo rear oil seal failure. Try putting your aircon on, this raises the load on the engine slightly and often stops the smoke. Personally what id do is get it hooked up to consult or similar check everything is running right then take it for a long but gentle drive, motorway speeds etc with very few full throttle runs. and try leaving it to idle again. I can take a fair whle to clear the stuff out the exhaust. If you have a pcv problem, you will normally see lots of oil in the plenum, but nowhere else in the induction system. The pcvs can clearly be seen about halfway along the undersides of the side face of the plenum. If your car still has the original pipework for the breathers, then I would expect them to be a pain in the ass. Purchase the pcv hose kit from sfs this will make refitting so much easier. Soaking the pcvs in petrol overnight often does the trick, replacements re pretty cheap from mjp. They should be free moving. Looking further on you can really only diagnose what it isn't, ie the engine has good compression the breather system is correct etc. But yeah just try giving it a gentle run to clear the crud through. Just in case you weren't aware turbo replacement is an engine out job really, rebuilds are ok but a replacement brand new core is a better bet long term. Beautiful car that mate.

They are virtually impossible to remove without snapping the damn thing.

Oh well like I said before a known car will be cheaper long run.

That's fine then, get it trailered home change and flush all fluids filters and belts. Change all rubber water and oil lines. Then get it hooked up to consult and see what you get. :) fair bit of work but probably well worth it.

Lol literally around, mines a dead duck ATM. All noise and fury but I have no clutch lol.

My brother in law has all his Hgv licenses through the army. He's leaving soon and that's an option for him, we were discussing that line of work exactly, from what I understand lack of experience may work in your favour as companies want to train you there way not iron out your already acquired bad habits. You can but try.

You would have to really look at it, as an unknown I wouldn't be prepared to part with more than a thousand. Lack of use really seems to upset these cars, electrical issues etc. it looks honest clean and straight, but it is an unknown. You could drive it 50 miles and smiley a coolant hose and cause major damage. It needs an experienced enthusiast to take it in, trailer it home and service the living death out of it. It looks like a great base for a restoration, but don't expect to pick up spend a tenner on some oil and a filter and it be ready for the road.

As dicky said it literally just connects to the balance bar or the brake vac line. You must fit a one way valve though.

There is a little trick you can try, it's difficult to explain. Take the connector, look at the underside the connections are like two tiny box sections, with a slit in one side. Use a small object to bend the two flats you can down a touch this will create a sort of m shape if your following me. This will provide purchase on the connections, be careful though obviously.

There's two lengths this is important. One is to change the stock clutch line tree, the other is to replace it completely. I have converted from automatic so didn't have the tree hence why I needed the full length version. They are made by hel, and I purchased mine through zcentre.

Are you going to post up on zclub and 350-uk

Failed front torsion bars are common. Under breaking or load the car pulls off. When stationary they appear normal.

I know you said don't but I'm sorry il tell you the same as I tell anyone. A z32 will require a minimum budget of 4k, the less you pay the more you will pay getting it right. You might be lucky and this is a general rule. This is a car that's really worth buying a decent one to begin with, ESP if your not mechanically minded( you might be I dunno) but trust me a 1500 car will soon cost you. A well looked after enthusiast owned car will save you money and heart ache. Good luck, is there anything your looking for in particular?

Answered both questions, consulted the boss were in.