Stephen

Have you tried this with the aircon on? Be interesting to see if the extra revs etc carry the engine through. It runs fine cold and it runs fine hot, however that in the middle stage it's suffering...that about the just if it? Could be a vac leak that is masked by the extra fuel when stone cold and once warm the engine components swell closing the gap?

Enlightening jeff. So I would assume the likes of z1 and CPZ are buying these oem items from Nissan?

The z32 has a built in regulation anyway bud.

I just added it up, from czp the cost of the bumper with all the extras, lights foams supports etc is cheaper than the pre tax price of the bare bumper from zcentre! I know there's tax and post but come on?

I'm sure if someone got a dozen of these with lights, into the uk they could make a little profit. Such a desirable part, commonly available, cheaper than the 89 one from Nissan iirc and we can't get them for a reasonable price. To buy the bumper and lights from zcentre is over £550 before you've even paid postage...or for the grill. Fitted, I wouldn't be surprised if the complete price was over a grand! That's just ridiculous.

Take the cooler into the shop explain you want to go from rubber pipe to that. Someone may be able to tell you the diameter, I've forgotten off the top of my head. 12-14mm rings a bell.

Have you investigated importing one for yanky doodle land, probably still work out cheaper with the lights etc.

Is just the bare cooler? No fitting kit, ie nothing to screw on the in and out? Most cone with a 90 degree hose tail that screws on and you push the stock lines onto that. If not you will have to source the bits. A local hydrolics place is likely a good bet.

Not much, really. What I'm unsure of currently is if it's actually possible to replace the ball joints themselves.

No, but you will likely end up paying more than you expect for good quality after markets. For most of us esp lower arms a refreshed set of stock ones are more than ideal.

Trouble is with aftermarket ones is if they are cheaper than that they likely aren't that great. These cheap rose joints are all well and good but so much more likely to fail. :( I dunno what to do about my lower arms ATM.

Iirc they're an expensive part period.

This is the trouble with these Chinese knock offs, the reduced quality control means that whilst one persons is fine another's might be crud. Is your competition clutch a puck one? Or the stage 2 normal looking one like mine?

Order one from MJP cheap enough mate, would suck to take it out then realise it's duff and you have to wait to put it back together. You will also need some loctite instant gasket, the black stuff. Don't remember if there's any actual gaskets down there, don't think there is. Btw the thermostat has a wrong way up and a right way up, the toggle bit goes up top.

;) well done mate, defiantly replace the thermostat. While your there the two short water pipes are a cheap and easy bit of maintaince.

http://www.japspeed.co.uk/nissan-300zx-non-turbo-decat-downpipes.html You can use these with the stock turbo elbows I believe, less risk of side effects less chance of snapping an awful to reach stud and looks wise it could be a hi flow cat, could be...looks mot friendly doesn't it.

Exactly, so many are weird parts or declared as later spec than they are, you telling the mot guy its supposed to a 96 but after research it isn't...I honestly think if you popped on a set of decats take it in as a grey import no one would question it. You could fit japspeed non turbo ones that way there's still a box, andits an easy swap to a set of cats if the issue arose.

What a shame, all that hard work and the bottom went.

Prove it's a 96, it's a grey import...;)

Yeah looks like Vera duckworth decorated it.

Correct :) it's only because the stock one loops the fluid through the radiator. Just remember if you buy the rad from zcentre that 120 is plus car plus delivery...it's the same Chinese made rad sold by various companies. So just find the cheapest price, I bet if you phone japspeed and mention the group buy price they would honour it if they have stock.

The main issue with the stock rad is the brittle old plastic end tanks, the top hose tends to snap off! I too purchased an alloy one from japspeed, I phoned up and got the group but price outside of the group buy offer ;) it offers a touch of insurance in terms of cooling ability and it's one less old part to break. The downside is that you may or may not get lucky in terns of how easily the fan shroud fits back on it(yes you do need it, a aftermarket is about effective with stock without. With the shroud were cooking on gas) the other side of it, if you have an autobox esp Jspec ones you will need to make a provision for the autobox cooler.

It will just be a redundant loop mate, so you can just trace and remove. Bleeding the system is nice and easy, jack the front up nice and high, just like doing the coolant system. Cap off then roll the steering from lock to lock, bubbles will come up if there are any, I doubt there will be much if your careful. Keep topping it up as it goes down, once you think it's looking good fire up the engine and continue, the fluid level may change at this point or even froth so be watchfull, it's a job that actually is a lot easier with two of you.

So let's get this straight? You've got aftermarket bovs on the intercooler pipes up top between the rad and the plenum. The original recirc should have had it's two feeds capped or plugged, have you got open holes?

I think everyone has been guilty of laying down a big smoking 11 at some point.