Stephen

All Uk spec cars are 2+2 twin turbo, all swb and non turbo cars are grey imports.

Il pm you my number later Scott then il meet you and jonce on the a34 il just park up in a layby and catch up as you pass

As you likely know, insurance is more about statistics than facts, with that in mind I wouldn't be supprised if it was cheaper for a turbo than a non turbo. When I first got mine at 22/23 I think I was, that was certinatly the case. It was cheaper for the zed than a 200sx, only marginally more than my 1.2l daily driver at the time and about a third of the cost of a skyline. Once I hit 25 my insurance cost became pretty much a formality about £150-200 a year. In honesty the biggest costing for a z32 is maintaince, esp if it's a twin turbo. Your affectively paying for two 3 cyl turbo engines. Parts are not EASY to get hold of or cheap. Essentially a z32 is the complete opposite to your current car. In terms of the 2+2 platform, it is exactly that. It's not really a four seater, you've got less legroom than an easy jet flight. You really gotta drive one and look at as many as possible before committing. I wouldn't sell mine unless I had to but it's not a cheap toy. It's bloody fun though :)

To get the best out of the stock tubs and bolt ons many of the Americans are running 740ccc injectors. The only issue I see with go stock turbo crazy is the fact that sooner or later thecstock turbos will break, and then you have to fork out for new tubs anyway. Rebuilding them isn't all its cracked up to be either as they tend to have varying degrees of longevity after being rebuilt, it can be a real false economy rebuilding them tryst me.

I put in an order about a fortnight ago I suppose, no email or anything through the door? Has the payment been missed?

Presently research and save lol.

That's a massive question, one that's as much about personal preference than anything else, what kind of peak power you want, what kind of delivery you want, how much you plan to spend. The trouble is many of the bolt on applications are a bit naff now, most have to be imported and many will only marginally improve things on thier own. For example the next logical step up is a pair of gt525s a hybrid turbo using the larger version of the stock core on the stock housings. The end result is a very expensive version of the stock dinosaur technology we already have. You could go and spend thousands on a set of tubs that require a list as long a your arm if extras to make a significant amount more power than stock. I'm fairly confident in what I've chosen now, but I have done lots and lots of reading and thinking.

You have a different ecu map to match the increased boost, yes?

I Spose your right there Andrew, I dislike all that crap in the boot regardless.

How did you do them? The two ways I see is from the prop end with about a meter of extensions, pretty easy or fight them out up close and personal. I personally take off my turbo elbows and starter and then there's loads of room, I don't recommend that though as often with most cars the elbows are seized on, mine have been off a few times now lol.

It's the bloody wheel nut spine thing that pisses me off clunking

Anyone wondered why they didn't bother with card over the jack etc?

What's the problem?

Really? I'd rather pull the box than the engine any day if the week.

Yeah, looks clean that Si. I do wonder how affective the fog lights will be after that treatment though.

The two sensors that come into the cabin are the catalytic converter overheat sensors, the other two higher up that plug in the engine bay are the O2 sensors. Take the starter off to access the torque converter bolts, undo turn repeat. It's a boring job pulling the autobox. Are you fitting another or are you going to convert?

Agreed very nice, they would look great on my car. Hand them over lol.

Outsides clean now, just the interior and engine bay to go.

Check the level of fluid and it's condition, it should be within range and a nice pink/red colour, brown and smelly is bad. There is a filter in the pan which can fill with particles blocking the proper working ability. The torque converter failed in mine, much the same as you describe but it got progressively worse, it would often be ok when cold then get worse.

I have for sale a pair of rear Whiteline -35mm lowering springs. These are removed from my car after completing less than a 1000 miles id say, only because one of the shocks themselves are shot. This is them for sale new, I must confess I cant remember what I paid but I didn't pay that for them, as I got them on sale. As you can see they are £116 from Demon tweeks, so I think £40 is pretty reasonable. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/ebay-non-application-data/performance-clearance/whiteline-whiteline-rear-lowering-springs-nissan-300zx-z32-lowers-35mm Fitted to my car it sat at this height, leaving a gap of about 15mm between the arch and wheel top, obviously this will vary from car to car due to your shocks and other geometry. I also have two good condition rear strut tops that I will part with reasonably if someone wants them, the shocks themselves will sold off once I've got all four off the car (which may not be for a while, as ive got to finish building my new fronts) as Bilstien's are rebuildable, they will be bloody cheap though to reflect the fact they need rebuilding. I will happily bring them Coventry, or post them or how ever you wish to deal with it, I could also bring them to Beaulieu but id like them gone before that.

In fact it's in the car now, just put it in. Just remind me to hand it over.

Il try to remind my sieve brain.

Noooo an actual one, made from plastic.

That reminds me do you still need a non return valve?

You will end up with no pool that way lol