Stephen

What's the actual route?

I think your first point of call is, is the data you have correct. Does the car feel very low on power. If it feels normal but has a low reading, then it's likely an issue with the gauge, be that feed or mechanical failure. Under what circumstances are you getting that information. You won't make boost at idle, you need load. You need to check over all of your intake tract. Preferably by performing a boost leak test, however a leak this bad should be very obvious. The final option is that you have a seized turbo. This would be shit. Removing some intake piping and seeing if it blows out the top may work. Or simply observing and feeling the impelor. Start with the simple stuff and work to towards the worst case scenario. Hopefully it's something silly.

As above there's loads of fuses you can pull.

That's sounds like what I want Howard. - - - Updated - - - Have a look at the instructions of you would ash and see under what circumstances that output voltage changes.

Yeah the Failsafe and Ugeo. Also the innovate unit. I just want to find a unit that shows me realtime AFR values and enables a solenoid or relay to be activated or deactivated.

Ok, so it would appear then that even the cheaper model, the AEM Uego, has a 0-5v output that is active within a range of 10-20. Maybe I need to speak to AEM. My idea was simply to attach the output signal to a solenoid, when it's opened it would short the vac line on the MBC and return me to wastegate pressure. I know it's not flawless or fool proof, it is better insurance than the stock knock sensor. The more expensive one the AEM Failsafe actually has a value which can be changed. And do exactly what I want, whilst logging the whole process. However if the Uego unit enables me to achieve the same thing without logging but requires a touch of faffing about. It's not an issue. I just need to know exactly how it that model works.

Doing some research for what will best suit my requirements. I'm looking for a wideband AFR with an output that is triggered when the AFR is out of range. So I can connect this to a boost solenoid or injector harness to reduce risk. Is AEM's Failsafe the only product that does this, or are there other brands or makes. I don't really want or need the data logging. I notice their cheaper model says it has an 0-5v output but fails to say what it's purpose is. Can anyone expand on this please?

Thought as much. Available on a certain auction site for £140.

I wonder if ZCentre, Japspeed, Godspeeed and various others are actually the same Chinese made product?

Charity? Go on then...

Certainly are.

Not got stock turbos. Just says high pressure turbos.

Equally I think it's a mutual friend between you, I and Joel and I think his opinion of what Joel popped up is pretty forgone. I have to say though the italia it kinda works with the car being white. The VW being a snore box and red, looks pants.

Centre sections or centre caps?

That explains it. Yeah gun metal could work or a metallic grey.

Coloured centres are very 1990. They look nice like that, simple, clean. I swear your boot lid was black

Yeah, london is crap.

That's just the tip of the ice berg, Britain is becoming more and more anti car.

Quiet like those, very functional looking.

You would have to get under and look. If it's just a kakimoto cat back obviously it wouldn't even be relivant. You need to check what front pipes are on it.

Took her out today and ate through £20 of ultimate unleaded. Good fun. Went through the diagnostics for the AC to see why it only blows hot air, long standing fault. It now blows cool air, not cold as I don't have AC as such. Dunno how it fixed it or how long it will last. Anyways. Picked the wife up from work in the zed who moaned the whole way home about it being bumpy. It's fine on the major roads but the minor roads especially puns the house are absolutely terrible, funny you don't notice how bad till your in something unforgiving.

Yeah, NA's are pretty noisey decatted. It so bad on a TT, I'd consider mine fairly quiet.

Expensive that's what they are lol. SSR professor. You can get Rota versions of that design.

They work great, they just don't bloody last.

Most classic policies require you to be over 25, some its 21, most though it's 25. Amongst other stipulations such as it not being your primary vechile, you need it to be a second car commonly. The first few years I paid about £1500 a year, once I hit 25 and was eligible it dropped to £150. Big difference. For a new driver of 17 years old, I'd expect to pay about £5k a year to insure a Z32 on normal insurance. Probably more for an NA than a TT as well. Most new drivers will pay a premium of £2-2.5k for the first years insurance on a low powered car, typically a small 4cyl hatch with less than 100hp.