Stephen

Cheers for your help Jeff, the first one I can find quite quickly. The last one, which I assume would be your preferred choice seems pretty hard to find. Once I get the seal i can then be happy with how much material to remove off the old seal. Boot keeps flooding atm which is annoying.

Lot more required than simply fitting different manifolds though isn't there. What exactly does your kit comprise of? What do the manifolds look like? Not to put a downer on it but I can't really see you breaking even by relocating your turbos, bearing in mind most people would fit new turbos once. Unless your changing out turbos regularly I don't see the benefit to cost/hassel ratio.

I thought I needed to do it and researched it, not done it though. It is possible but not very easy. There properly down in the head. I wouldn't be surprised if it was quicker to pull the block and do it the heads off.

Mines passed for years with them.

Not really interested in paying for it to be removed if not necessary. Equally couldn't care less about having an OEM seal, so it seems like a perfect solution.

z32 Manual TTs came with bigger AR turbos and different cam shafts to reduce power and lag. Stock for stock manuals are quicker, if the drivers equal. Autos do make faster drag cars, however the Z32 autobox is a bit weak. There's a bit of a stigma about automatics over here, regardless of the car it's in. However that stigma is based around old fashioned automatics. For a daily commuter I'd quite like an auto, for a fun car though, unless it's a new auto I'd pick manual every time. I've driven and owned a z32 auto and manual. Manual is 100% better, not only did the autobox make the car sluggish feeling and did irratating things they seem to break for a hobby.

Yeah it's the universal I was enquiring about Jeff, looks smart as well. Does the original just pull out? Where do I get the one you used to use?

Grave digging here. Does anyone know if the seal above requires the rear window to be removed?

Sorted mate, cheers.

Check your local laws, you might cause yourself headaches removing one, the other or both. Both are fitted for emissions control. Why remove either? Well the simple answer is to reduce clutter and reduce the risk of failure. It can't fail if it's not on the car. Binning the EGR does make maintainence easier. Removing your PCVs should stop your engine burning oil during the combustion process lowering the octane rating. However, I found as have others that removal of the PCV system which reduces the engines capacity to scavenge blow by gasses actually leaves the engine worse off. This is particularly pronounced in high mileage TT engines where blow by gasses stop the turbos from draining properly and the engine begins to smoke. There are other deletes that are worth doing though, AIV, PVCR, CC to name a few. Best to research what you want to remove. I've removed everything really aside from the PCV, which I reinstated.

Not quite the same as the archachic autobox in a z32 though is it. It actually changes gear with sense not as when it feels like it, like mid way through a bloody corner.

Are you getting code 34 or not? I'd be suspicious of the dett sensor or/and harness.

Yeah, they look smart. I'd run those.

Pop up some pictures of your current wheels and how they sit bud.

What's the actual route?

I think your first point of call is, is the data you have correct. Does the car feel very low on power. If it feels normal but has a low reading, then it's likely an issue with the gauge, be that feed or mechanical failure. Under what circumstances are you getting that information. You won't make boost at idle, you need load. You need to check over all of your intake tract. Preferably by performing a boost leak test, however a leak this bad should be very obvious. The final option is that you have a seized turbo. This would be shit. Removing some intake piping and seeing if it blows out the top may work. Or simply observing and feeling the impelor. Start with the simple stuff and work to towards the worst case scenario. Hopefully it's something silly.

As above there's loads of fuses you can pull.

That's sounds like what I want Howard. - - - Updated - - - Have a look at the instructions of you would ash and see under what circumstances that output voltage changes.

Yeah the Failsafe and Ugeo. Also the innovate unit. I just want to find a unit that shows me realtime AFR values and enables a solenoid or relay to be activated or deactivated.

Ok, so it would appear then that even the cheaper model, the AEM Uego, has a 0-5v output that is active within a range of 10-20. Maybe I need to speak to AEM. My idea was simply to attach the output signal to a solenoid, when it's opened it would short the vac line on the MBC and return me to wastegate pressure. I know it's not flawless or fool proof, it is better insurance than the stock knock sensor. The more expensive one the AEM Failsafe actually has a value which can be changed. And do exactly what I want, whilst logging the whole process. However if the Uego unit enables me to achieve the same thing without logging but requires a touch of faffing about. It's not an issue. I just need to know exactly how it that model works.

Doing some research for what will best suit my requirements. I'm looking for a wideband AFR with an output that is triggered when the AFR is out of range. So I can connect this to a boost solenoid or injector harness to reduce risk. Is AEM's Failsafe the only product that does this, or are there other brands or makes. I don't really want or need the data logging. I notice their cheaper model says it has an 0-5v output but fails to say what it's purpose is. Can anyone expand on this please?

Thought as much. Available on a certain auction site for £140.

I wonder if ZCentre, Japspeed, Godspeeed and various others are actually the same Chinese made product?

Charity? Go on then...

Certainly are.