znut

Deffo no name apart from fender stratocaster and made in USA...might buy her a bag of sweets now and keep it myself for the future:laugh:

ile check later mate...its made in the USA. Why are they collectable?

done a job today and the geezer gave me a pristine fender Stratocaster and an amp with a zillion buttons on it...are they any good as ime going to give it to my daughter for xmas now. I know nothing about Banjo,s but when i pluggled it in and struck it i did sound a bit like jim hendrix if i say so myself:punk: The volume was insane and must of been heard 10 roads away.

ile tell you what mate joking aside..been here a long time myself and i still learn summit new every day,this place Rocks:punk:

thats what were here for Dave to help out...this place is a squirming tangled swampy mess of zed knowledge:w00t:

:laugh: wonder what that geezer thought getting filmed putting his PIN number in

Marks post is spot on and made easy...you might get a few pointers from this link too http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/profecb2/profecb.htm

:laugh: yep thats it in a nutshell

love the car and updates...keep them coming mate:thumbup1:

funny enough guys i thought the same about air gap BUT after running temp has come up the air gap goes (thats the idea of bleeding)...try slowly taking your caps off,its right up to the top of neck. To answer Marks question about bottom rad fitting,thats out the window as the temp down there is cooler and not a true engine temp reading. Anyway to answer the sceptics (i was too at 1st) the reading right up the scale on the gauge is the same as conzult so it seems fine;)

For those scratching there head looking for a place to put the sender,this might interest you On after market Koyo style rads there is a bleed bolt which is 12mm x 1.25P and depending on your gauge the sender is 10mm x 1.00P for the celcius or 1/8 NPT for the Fahrenheit... I have a lathe so i drilled the 12mm bolt down the middle and tapped a 10mm thread in the centre to take the sender,then run the tool across the head to reduce its height...After this i turned the bolt down to reduce its lenght so that the tip of the sender was below the bottom of reducer. PTF tape around both the sender and reducer and screwed them into the rad and checked for leaks..All good and no need to buy a hose adapter and start cutting the top hose up too plus it cost me half an hour of my time thats it:yes:

I know its been covered before but after today its worth a reminder...Cleaning out my targa seals and then making sure the drain holes were clear with compressed air (20 psi max) ide done 3 then over to the nearside front and heard a hiss in the footwell:huh:...yep the bloody drain pipe that goes down inside the pillar cover had come off the exit pipe behind the wing.Its a pig of a job to re-connect from the footwell so off comes the wing and i run a new continuous pipe with no joins upto the drain hole union and job done. Although my carpets were dry as the car has been under cover for nearly 2 years its a certainty that iff i had,nt found this then when the car hits the road the car would of been swamped by rain water.Plus it gave me the chance to check the cars body behind and under the wings which ime glad to report was 100 perfect with no signs of rust at all.:biggrin:

now that looks really tasty mate and looking at your plenum it looks like nissan should of done that from the factory.

Ok look away kids..... tell him to fk himself:xxx:

get another one and make a set of back lights out of em:laugh:

Any updates on this Darren??

thats looks very nice Gary...if that was my set-up ide now get a full s/s screw set over the whole motor..look really effective

thats very disa-pointing

it needs a "warm roof void"..in english it means it needs insulating from the top(outside) so that the inside temp is room temp and not condensing. Rip them shite sheets off and deck it out with 3/4 plywood and have a normal flat roof as in felt and bitumen.Stop spending on the zed and get yourself a decent hat on the garage:laugh:

No Rich...need to be further north and we only went as far north as the geiranger fjord...thats also on my wish list too mate.

for them pipe clips that are fully closed around the pipe..a fast fix is to get the engine bay hot ,undo the clips and move them along the pipe 3-5mm to a fresh piece of pipe and re-tighten onto hot soft pipe...99.9% does the trick.

or to put it another way..."welcome to my home...dont you have tea bags in your house":lol::lol: Big welcome Aitor and i love your car:thumbup1:

you bet Peter:thumbup1:

what is these days Pete..just live your life untill they say "stop" i say:laugh:

Norway is the most fantastic place ive ever been too...done a cruise up there end of Aug this year and i could,nt get enough of the place. Next year mid-summer ime going to drive there via Sweden and i cant wait:thumbup1: