Yowser

Demon tweeks only list the new version now :( I contacted a couple of companies with it on their website , but they said that the version is no longer available and they hadn't updated the site. I'll contact that Sucarb place and see what they say, might have old stock left. Thanks.

Does anyone know anyone that has a 'Cobra Imola S' FIA approved seat available ? Im after one to match my Drivers seat, it looks like this, and has to be the original design version : Does'nt have to be blue as apparantly you can get the blue panels to make it match still. Annoyingly I used to have a Matching pair, but sold the passenger one to replace it with a GT (wider width) version. But never got around to it, and now Cobra have brought out a new design that does not match my original. :crying: Been searching Ebay, Driftworks, Pistonheads and forums without luck. Bit of a long shot, but if anyone knows of one please let me know. If I cant find one I will have to sell mine and buy a matching pair, which will be costly. :(

Wondered if you might be attending Japfest, as Pete is a regular there. Its at Castle Combe, May 14th. I think all the Z only track sessions are booked up, but probably mixed sessions available if you decide to attend and there are always spaces becoming available on the day. Hope to be able to join you on a track in the near future though :)

Fantastic. A very similar weight figure to what im expecting with my slicktop too. The car is fantastic, and a credit to You, Pete and everyone involved with it. Was the calculated 198mph based on the TT 3.69 gearing or your 4.1 ? Look forward to hopefully seeing the car sometime. Are you bringing it to Japfest ?

Syncro's are the weak point. The rest of the box is very strong, able to handle big power. Its a lot of money for relatively minor parts but when you consider quotes from gearbox specialists come out at about 1200-1500 for the same work, its not too bad.

yes, Fronts are a popular upgrade on the S13, but are the same calipers for the S14/S14a

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Same seller.

TT Diff - 51kg NA Diff - 32 kg

That emoticon is addictive to watch

You don't need anything extra made up, they fit exactly where the current rubber hose is, to the same connections. Caliper >>> metal pipe >>>> braided hose >>>> metal pipe Some go straight to caliper like my goodridge hoses and some go to the metal pipe like yours. If that new piece you got made up is leaking then yeh do as Steam said and check the flare was done properly. I can pop up and help but not till after 17th :(

UK TT 89-94 Gates PN# 030350 - 905mm 4rib - Power Steering Gates PN# 040390 - 1010mm 4Rib - Alternator Gates PN# 040365 - 940mm 4Rib - A/C I've added the sizes in, in case you cant find them by part number, or find a different brand. If you cant get the exact part number then get the closest in size, there should be enough adjustment providing you get reasonably close. But thats only correct If your Lightweight pulley is the same size as the SGP Lightweight pulley that all that info is based on. I've seen Ebay pulleys that are a different size. I seem to recall having to do a bit of trial and error with my belts.

The link Smithy gave you with all the details you need is in the Public section. Here it is again : http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=48137&referrerid=119 The problem is that not all Lightweight pulleys are the same size between brands, and that the alternator belt differs between Jap, UK, TT and NA becuase of the waterpump pulley size. All 3 belts are different size to stock. For a TT they are all 4rib Easiest way is to use the sizes or Part numbers in that thread and just take a visit to halfords. Normally have pretty much every size available on the shelves. They sell Gates belts I believe.

It doesn't widen till near the end. A 34mm adaptor fits fine in the middle of the hose.

Depends which model of tyre each of those brands listed are. Each brand offers a range of different tyres. Everyone has there own opinions on tyres, and its probably more about which tyres to avoid rather than which are best. But a couple of good and popular choices are, dependent on your budget : The Falken Fk452 - Budget Performance tyre. The Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric - Premium Performance tyre.

yes, once undone it will pull off, but it can be tight if its never been off before. If you have'nt already done so, unbolt the prop bearing carrier from the car so the prop drops in the middle and gives you plenty of movement. If for any reason you need to seperate the two prop halves, be sure to mark where they join together for putting it back together or it will be out of balance.

Whichever nuts you've used should not have any affect on movement or play. Just the length of the arms, and hence the amount of tow when fully wound in. Driftworks started including the extra thinner nuts because owners were complaining about not being able to have as much tow adjustment as they wanted. The Car is going to need to have its geometry checked and adjusted after fitting any adjustable suspension component. Incorrect tow will affect stability, but I would get under there and check the tightness of everything, incase something has worked loose.

Your rubber gearstick gaitor (underneath the leather gaitor) is split or has come loose at the front. When your in 2nd and 4th the gaitor is stretched and the gap opens allowing more noise though, and what you can hear is typical drivetrain road noise coming through. Is amazing how much noise the rubber gaitor stop. If it is down on power, try an ECU error code check or boost leak test.

RX7 - Decent alternative to the 300zx TT. An enthusiasts car. Smaller and lighter, but thirstier, plasticky and plagued with reliablity/maintenance issues. Rx8 - Quirky Rep Mobile. Fairly decent handling and quality, but not particulaly quick. Also suffers with reliablity/maintenance issues. If its a Modern rwd sports car your after, and your considering the RX8, then I would be looking at the 350z or Honda S2000 instead. Providing you dont need rear seats. If you do need rear seats then my money would go Bmw. 330i/530i for decent performane without the big costs or if you want economy 330d/530d....or for the big thrills - E46 M3/E39 M5 if your looking to spend that much. Depends if you buy into "its cool to hate bmw's" philosophy or not though.

japfest, at castle combe Race track- 14th May One of the best and biggest Events of the year. Zclub have a Z stand there every year. http://zclub.net/forum/news/18788-jappfest-2011-may-14-a.html

Cancelled about a month ago, message I got was just not enough Interest this year. A shame becuase Z008-Z010 were very popular and lot of fun.

Z011, but its been cancelled.

The R32 runs a Shortnose R200 setup, like the S14a, 300zx NA, R33 GTST & GTR ...etc All Standard shortnose R200's are as strong as each other and I believe they all use the same thickness driveshafts too. There are some differences in gearing and input/output flanges though between models. Another good thing about the R200 setup is there are more aftermarket LSD options in that fitment, compared to the R230.

It would take a lot of custom work. But you'll also lose a fair bit of acceleration from the 3.69 ratio. Even if it was a straight bolt in, I would'nt reccomend it becuase of this. You may get a little extra top speed (that you'll never really use) but it will take longer to get there. A great modification for the TT is to swap the entire rear subframe, diff, driveshafts to the R200 setup from a NA to improve performance. The opposite to what your looking to do. There are plenty of high powered SX's and Skylines, running the same R200 diff setup the S14a has.

Yes the 300zx TT setup is stronger, but the Diff wont physically fit and the Driveshafts are a different length. The Z TT uses a R230 rear diff. The s14a uses a R200 (same as 300zx NA but with different input and output flanges). Its bigger, the way mounts it to the subframe differs, it wont fit up to the sx propshaft or the sx driveshafts, and the z driveshafts are longer - Z has a wider track than the sx.