Yowser

I would speak to Alunox about a custom exhaust. A straight through single setup is best for Turbo charged applications, but Alunox do some tasty X-pipe setups for twin exists that I would go for. They have done a lot of 300zx exhausts - Chunk, John Dixon, Baggins ...etc You probably heard Chunks when we were on the KOE trip ? - I Followed Chunks most of the time through France and belgium and the sound was incredible. He also won best sounding 300zx at Jae. The single exit that JD and Baggins have is incredibly loud !

wider fronts = less understeer. I know a lot of the track racing guys in the U.S / Aus use wide fronts too. I used to have 245's on the front and was very happy with them. Did'nt suffer with any tramlining issues either.

some paint shops do offer rust warranties !

Jap and UK have same fitment. Do not buy 069 it will not fit UK or Jap. Terminals in wrong place. 068/088 is correct fitment for both.

I used to have a Mortgaged up to the eyeballs 4 bed house in a nice village but sold up last year because it was all getting a bit much and I wanted to start a business. Now renting an extended 3 bed Victorian Semi with dbl garage in a not so nice village LOL Absolutely no idea how I will ever get back on the properly ladder again !

little garage and small field ? LOL That would be a 10 car garage and a couple of acres of land :slap:

Yep, Many cars have a Fuel cut built into the ECU, which is another benefit of a remapped chip as it can remove the fuel cut.

ECU remaps do many things. Raise Rev limiter, remove speed limiter, adjust timing and fuelling for best performance and safety. Sure you can just wack on a cheapo manual boost controller and turn up the boost. It wont be as fast as one thats been chipped and it certaintly wont be as safe. Greatly increased risk of detonation and increasing boost without a Boost gauge is foolish. For the sake of £100 or so (on a Z32) it makes sense to get an ECU chip.

Yep, the one under the Main ECU is the PAS ECU. The one si is talking about is the Cruise control ecu.

sh*t sorry to hear si. :rant: :(

99% sure. Been in several with the CC lever and never noticed a difference. Pauls convertible has CC lever too, and I've driven it a few times and was fitting gauges to it at the weekend. Im sure I would of noticed if indicator had swapped sides.

Si, im a bit confused..are you saying that the indicator switch is on the opposite side to normal on cars equipped with steering collumn mounted cruise control paddle ? If so, then thats incorrect. They are on the same side. SRS on left. Indicator on right.

:eek: :eek::cool:

Sorry, dont like any of that at all.

Prefer the white over the black.

I think you've misread. your previous post said the box on the one you stripped was under the Engine ECU. The box Funkysi means is next to the Engine ECU, not under it and that is the Cruise control ECU. The box under the Engine ECU is the PAS/Hicas ECU.

Fuel pump ecu is in the nearside rear panel (next to rear seat). Its mounted vertically and has a connector at the top and If I remember correctly it is heatsinked on the sides.

John is correct. I read the manual wrong. Its the A.S.C.D (cruise control) unit.

:eek: Gravity defying horses !

ok, just looked in another Manual. Its the Hicas Control unit. (Hicas ECU for TT's and PAS ECU on NA's) So you've had your Hicas disabled.

The PDF is wrong, it cant be a NA PAS ECU as that box is in each of the Jap TT's I have removed the Autobox ecu out of this week.

got it from the PDF....hmmm PAS control for NA ....that dont make sense

you need the top half of that picture jazzy posted, as the arrow goes up off the top of the page in that diagram for the box you want

I can confirm its NOT the auto-transmission ECU ! The Auto ECU would sit over the top of that box. The 2 screw holes on the left and the 1 at the bottom is for the autobox ecu bracket.

lol excellent