Yowser

Been waiting for a chance to use this one again, its only been 8 years :tongue_smilie: (Mac_1 and Chunk)

I presumed by OEM he meant no 6x9's sticking out the doors and massive boot builds. Properly installed tweeters can look very oem. Its always best to spend the most you can on the fronts if your after decent sound.

I would'nt bother with the rear speakers, they are just for extra fill which can even reduce SQ. Instead spend more on your fronts, the fronts are the key to your Sound quality. Dont bother with 2-way co-axials, get a set of Component front speakers (seperate Mid-way and Tweeter) with crossovers instead, to handle your High's and mid's and Combine it with a 10" subwoofer and Amp for your Bass. and mount the tweeters, high up in the door, facing you.

Im not familiar with the Trakrite system, but Stringing is still a popular method used in modern forms of Motorsport, especially at Track-side tuning. Go for it if it aids you in confirming or better understanding results from your trackrite. Providing you keep the string taught and take measurement from equal points, its fine for determining relative measurement either side. Coincidently, I was watching the development of a new Wheel alignment system on our Formula Ford today that took laser mapped images of all four wheels, and displayed them on the screen with no physical connection to the vehicle at all.

Not sure where you got your info from but it is wrong. Track width is the distance between the centre line of opposing wheels. It is very much affected by wheel width and offset.

If they are the same width wheels and offset all round, then you should see a 38mm difference between front and rear.

Those numbers posted by myself and MantaV8 are the Front and Rear Tracks. They are measured from the centre of one wheel to the centre of the other wheel (Not from edge to edge) The offset is affected by wheel width and wheel offset, so If your not running after-market wheels then its likely you wont have the same front and rear track.

If it has Standard UK wheels Fitted : front : 1496 mm rear : 1554 mm If it has Standard JDM wheels Fitted : front : 1496 mm rear : 1534 mm If its got anything but standard wheels then you will need to know the Wheel widths, offsets and if there are any spacers fitted, in order to calculate the New Front and Rear Track.

Do you have standard wheels ? (and if so, Jap or UK wheels?)

Your main concern seems to be with engine bay aesthetics, but in that regards It will make very little difference. The Pump is mounted low down mostly out of view, and the Radiator and condenser are hidden under nose panels. Pipework and wiring is barely visible.

GTR version is higher and has smaller sides. Looks like the GTT version to me.

More pics :

Check out the Orange Pentroof Z. It had a R34 GTT (I think) spoiler. More aggressive than the usual options, but not garish or oversized.

If I could only have 1 car (daily driver and weekend toy all-in-one) then probably a Late Bmw E39 M5, or a E60 M5. If it was just to be a weekend toy, then probably a 240z, then a complete rebuild and upgrade, as a widearch V8.

The only real difference between early and later version is the headlights. There are some other minor differences in bumpers..etc, but its mostly the headlight difference in looks.

Most likely weak BoV spring, or (if its adjustable type) needs adjusting, as its causing a vacumn leak at idle.

Technically they are more efficient the closer to the Intake plenum. However the stock recirc location, that the Bov's replace are in the nose panel, so the easiest and cheapest fitment is to replace them there. To fit them in the intake pipes you need a more expensive Hardpipe kit made to fit BoV's

Stock Rear toe is 0 deg.

The soarer is sort of a Japanese Jag. More of a Big Cruiser than a Sports car like the Z.

Forgot to mention that. The same applies for the R34 GTR version. The R33 GTR version is straight bolt on without drilling though.

350z front is direct bolt on. So you just need Calipers, Pads and Discs. The rears are not.

The Brembo's from the Skyline GTR and 350z are the only bolt on Direct OEM Brake upgrade available. However, pretty much any Manufacturer brake setup can be made to fit with a suitable custom bracket manufactured to fit. The only issue to be aware off is Disc fitment, since not all maufactures use the same PCD fitment, you may not be able to use the Discs that come with the calipers, so have to source seperate discs, and have the brackets made to not only fit the Z32 hub, but also for new disc offset. A few members (here or on other Z sites) have fitted Calipers from other models such as Jagauar, Porsche ..etc The Mitsubishi Evo 6-9 Brembo's are larger than the Skyline/350z Brembo's and often available very cheap, and a couple of members here have done the upgrade with custom brackets (and may have the drawings available for them already). In terms of Aftermarket setups you have bolt-on options from : AP Racing Brembo Stoptech Rotora K-sport D2 Wilwood ..and plenty others. The K-Sport/D2 (same manufacturer, different name) are the Cheapest aftermarket options, although not nearly as cheap as they used to be when they first came out. Any Brake upgrade that is advertised to fit the Skyline, 200sx, 350z will also fit the 300zx. They all have the same Front fitment, and with the exception of the 350z the rear fitment is the same too.

Grey L-reg UK model with 99spec rears spotted twice in the last couple of days by Friends in Bristol.

R32 GTR = R33 GTST = 200SX S14 = Impreza Turbo/WRX (non brembo) = 300zx Pads

^^ This.