Everything posted by Yowser
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Best Glue
EVo Stick Instant contact adhesilve (the solvent version, which means its usually locked away in shops) Comes in a can, requires brushing on. Dont get the non-solvent version, its crap.
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A subjective view on moderation
Fair play Alan, you've handled this thread very well. No doubt it would of been immediatly moved straight to storage had others not been at JAE. I do have issues with some aspects, its nothing personal at anyone involved though - Im just not like that, but I haven't commented becuase I've been here long enough to know that there really is'nt any point - sadly we're only the members.
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Changing/removing headlights
no, dont remove front bumper - you'll just be making a lot more work for yourself and it does'nt really help much. It is a fiddly job though - 4 nuts/bolts, one in each corner. 2 accesssed via nose panel, the other 2 via Indicator hole - Combination of Ratchet and Spanners needed.
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HID's
Sounds good to me :thumbup1:
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A subjective view on moderation
....and there lies the problem. Despite being a long term dedicated member of the club any comment I make will be construed as "anti club spirit" and moderated. Remember..you have to care to have an opinion. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Criticism#Constructive_criticism
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HID's
35w Kit is more than up tp the job. Providing you have a 6000k or lower kit then its more than likely a case of dirty headlight inners, they may not look dirty but they will be, the difference is very apparant between a set thats been taken apart and cleaned and a set that has not. Only drawback is removing headlights and dismantling is a bit of a pita job.
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Front air ducts
i wouldn't go pointing them at the Induction.....the filter has all the air it needs down there and introducing a turbulant forced air feed to it can actually have the opposite of the desired affect. The best use of them is either to duct for brake cooling or for flow to larger SMIC's( if your stuck ducts dont cover them)
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Can anyone help at all?
The S1 PTU would be the first most likely culprit, very common failure item. First you need to find out if its spark or fuel related. Test for spark by turning the engine over with spark plug plugged into coilpack and resting on top of plenum. The Fuel pump itself is a very unlikely failure but has its own ECU/controller that can fail, connecting directly to power wont rule out fuel issues.
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Bomex idots
no idea what you mean :confused:
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99spec front bumper fitment
Yes they are available new, hard to find 2nd hand.
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Side skirts MAYBE
Will you be doing door fillers too Car.Mad ? If you do SWB version then I'll buy a set. I have Impuls now but really want the kaminari style.
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Omg!
Nice one, glad its all sorted. :)
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Bomex idots
Yeh, quite like the front/sides...and the colour , but the rear is Fugly
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Bomex idots
:rofl: For relatively plain looking 5-spokes, the wheels look great
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Twinzdesign Peru rear in black
These will be cheaper if we can get TwinZ to find a UK Vendor. They already had Zcentre ripp off there front bumper design and are very wary about selling here becuase of that. "Talk" of copying these designs is not doing us any Favour and Car.Mad has already said he wouldn't ! Good :bow: He is a moderator on U.S Z forum and a regular member of the other UK Z forum, we are banned from mentioning other Z sites here even though most us are on them all.
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Do not buy this bumper
Those pics pretty much sum up my experience with every single ebay fibreglass bumper I have been asked to fit to Z's before. Utter shite.
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Twinzdesign Peru rear in black
I so want that bumper. Si's opinions are still live and well elsewhere guys ;) The bumper and diffuser are a one piece mould together.
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prop shaft
You can buy release bearing seperate , speak to mjp. The rear prop half is diff length between swb and lwb , the fronts differ between auto and manual. Starter motors are the same
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prop shaft
Sounds like a Worn Clutch release bearing As for the prop, you will need to keep the rear half of your existing prop, and use the front half of the prop that came with the conversion.
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insurance companies are really stupid...
Same insurer? Might be due to NCB? (can only have NCB on one vehicle)
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what spolier is this?
Nope, url's no worky even with t w a t added
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what spolier is this?
:rofl:
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specs please
No that incorrect. The official Nissan figures are 280 (actually 276) for the Jap and UK Manual. (auto is 263) and 300 for the U.S Manual (auto is 280) They are the "official" figures anyway. If anything the Jap would be more powerful than the UK becuase UK cars have a precat and more mapping for lower octane fuel. There is no reason for the U.S model to be more powerfull.
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what spolier is this?
I recall stu had a photoshop done of the car without a spoiler from a side angle once
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what spolier is this?
Your right it does'nt look as good from that angle.....but I dont agree about the original spoiler....I have always thought that the original looks like an afterthought. It does not follow the lines, it hides them, ruining the shape of the car. Along with the orange indicators its always been the first thing to get ripped off on all my Z's.