Yowser

The z will easily do 25+ on a motorway run, and I've seen 30mpg+ average several times over a long run, although I used to always average in the low 20's for mixed driving, but dropping a fair bit if having too much fun. its about equal to any similar performance cars in my experience - supra, gtr ...etc

Were those headlights previoulsy taken apart in the past ? Becuase they can be a right bitch to seperate when you have them removed, let alone still on the car.

http://www.parcel2go.co.uk

Falken 452 - Excellent value, that way outperform there price Goodyear F1 Assymetric - Excellent dry and wet weather tyre R888 = worst possible tyre to reccomend in a thread about wet weather handling

The location is pretty nice for converting to side lights, give the car a wider looking stance at night I reckon.

Round lights = Dipped Beam headlights Square lights = Main beam headlights Pulling back should flash your main beam. Pushing forward should put them permantly on. Fogs should indeed come on when the pod switch is pressed, perhaps fuse gone, cant remember if they have a seperate circuit though. Sounds like fuse gone for the interior lights, fuse box is in the drivers footwell kickpanel (next to accerator pedal)

no, this is something fitted to series 3 onward Z's and are called Kerb lights - designed to light up the corner when turning.

Dot 3, 4 or 5.1 are fine. The higher the number the newer and more advanced formula it is, but for the clutch it really does not matter which of the abvoe and they are all compatible with each other. Dont use dot 5 though.

The fronts will sit in by about 2cm from an ideal flush. For a 9" front you want about a 25 offset. Time for a hefty hubcentric spacer. Handy link : http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp You can use it to compare to some known good offsets. I use these as a base : front 8.5 +18 rear 9.5 +35 ^^ those are proven known offsets that give you maximum flushness without need for rolling or arch-work. If you dont mind a bit of rolling you can go even more aggressive.

Im not sure it'll actually be the problem, but finding a replacment NA pump should not be an issue. Plenty of NA breakers out there, I replaced my TT pump with an NA one when I removed the hicas. Put a wanted thread up if your after one, should'nt be more than £30. I'd of expected the pump to become noisy first rather then straight failure.

Most of the Cruse control retrofit is straight forward. The only big issue is to do with wether or not the car has the same interior wiring loom as a cruse control equipped Z, becuase havign to replace the Interior wireing loom would be a big job. Im not sure wether it does or not.

In regards to the starter, what are the symptoms? If you finding it occasionaly slips/makes a noise/not fully engaging you may find its one of the starter motor bolts thats the issue. Its a very common issue on Z's that the threads get stripped out of the gearbox caseing that the starter bolts into. If thats the case you'll need to retap it, I think its an M12, so would need taking up a size with new matching bolt. The first sign is that the bolt starts working its way loose from general vibration, and when this happens movement from the starter ventually strips the thread. If the thread is ok but the bolt is loose get yourself some threadlock for it. The same symptoms can be had if the spring mechanism within the starter has failed, but thought I would mention the thread holes as I've come across the problem a lot. and I know others have said it but make sure you disconnect the battery. The starter has a large direct feed straight to the battery, you'll have sparks flying everywhere if not disconnected.

Fact: Camels cant shoot for shit !

A strong bright aftermarket white looks fantastic.

No reason, they are the same.

^^^^ This There is not a seperate left and rigth fuse, but the light sensor module is a prime failure candidate.

That will be Car.mad then ?

they did'nt give you the rear wheel figure then ?

All Z's have at least 2 catalystic convertors (Uk's have an additional pre-cat as well for a total of 3). All pre-95' Z's are tested using the standard non-cat emission rules for MOT's, becuase the Z is not in the emissiosn database. Which means, providing there are no other problems with the vehicles emissiosn a pre-95 Z will pass the Mot emission test with the Cat removed.

might make it taste better

236 at the wheels

The official Nissan figures for the UK TT manual and the Jap TT Manual is 276 bhp (280ps) The official Nissan figures for the U.S model TT manual is 300 bhp, without any real reason for a difference in power figures. Its my belief that the actual figure is 300 bhp for all regions, but due to the "gentlemans agreement" that Manufacturers had at the time with the Japanese government of not producing cars over 280ps, the figures were quoted as such. Many other japanese models that were listed as 280ps have been proven to dyno at 300+ in stock form. This is for standard TT manuals when new, where even when new individual cars can vary quite a bit. As for what power figure it would be after 18yrs.....best way is to have it dynoed.

Agreed. Its a nice colour, but the lines are terrible.

They are identical to the Jap rear bumper, most Z's in the Uk are Jap imports so you'll find plenty of pics here. The difference from UK is no rear fogs, Square plate recess and side markers. Fitment is the same.

there was a thread about it on ebay here very recently