vodkashots

was where the handcuffs dug in :lol:

Timing out doesnt produce a lumpy idle, but can invoke quiet pop's from the exhaust and a sensation of it misfiring with out the loud pop, ill have my timing light on me on friday (hope we have nice dry night) i can check the crank timing for you if you want.

might have to have a word with you on friday then if you are going to the meet, ive got 2 pain in the arse dents on my bonnet i wouldnt mind getting rid of.

lol, the cuteness actually makes it funnier. cant wait for that.

Thought the difference between engines was between TT and N/A and different series, not Auto / manual? Can i ask what the difference is and why it would bother you? surely the difference was in the turbos? (i have a feeling ive asked this question before lol)

Yes that zed has ABS, go for a drive to a quite road or better yet empty shop carpark, get up to around 40mph and brake hard, you will feel it kick in, you dont have to be going too fast to test it.

It certainly was doing this when it was dyno'ed. Well the Air regulator regulates the Air from cold, it opens a little shutter that then slowly closes as the engine warms up, hence the reason from cold start it idles higher, im just wondering if its not closing correctly and causing the idle issues ive got.

once its had the respray matey not before. before around 2k to 3k

OMG lol fp9DHzgr758

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ive had a small (and i mean small) magnussen tool kit, and its done pretty much every bloody job you can imaging on my zed. cheap but damn good.

Id say around £3000 to £4000 due to repray, also is it factory manual? if so around the 4k mark if not much wrong with it

its off my blue one so i know it was definately working before i took it off, other wise i wouldnt of bothered and just used the spare unknown i seem to have sitting in a cupboard under the sink :blink: lol still havent had a change to Air regulator over yet as had monsoon rains today hopefully it will be a bit drier at the weekend before i head off to santapod.

different car now bud lol, its defo not an airlock this time. this is the short run down got the car replaced ECU temp sender and ECU temp sender plug with new Plugged up recirc holes car was running smooth on idle all the time took car to JAE Jaikai did consults and noticed the TPS was read 0.38v groover adjusted TPS to 0.44v idle was then at around 1100rpm Groover then removed plug off of Idle air control valve and set idle to 600rpm Plug was then put back on to Idle air control valve, engine stabilized as the ECU took over at 750rpm 5mins later idle was erratic, bouncing from 500 to 1500rpm and not settling This week i changed the IACV over for the known working one off of my blue one (one i had the radiator and temp issues with) and cleaned plug connectors Plugged connector into IACV and reset the ECU, idle was fine for around 10mins idling at 800rpm 10mins later idle now bouncing from 750 RPM to 1100 RPM So back to square one.

:lol: yep.... :whistling:

was thinking of getting a gazebo, though found out who ever fitted these new targa seals and door rubbers didn't do a very good job, just had to brave the weather on my lunch to see if i can sort it out as i had a wet ass by the time i got to my first job of the day, not good lol Its leaking at the edges of the join between the targa panel its self and the door rubbers. also found out i have a blocked rear drivers side targa drain, anyone got any tips for cleaning that, that doesnt involve cans of compressed air to blow the pipe off lol

good for the male side of the connector, its the female side thats the annoyance

anyone else got any good suggestions, think this was a damn good thread, also any other tips and tricks or tools for zed specific jobs

Ive got a fully working one attached to my blue zed still, thanks for the offer though. shame its been raining like a good un for the past 2 days, havent been able to get down and do anything else at the moment.

Almost the same with out the center bolt covers

mine are red with the nissan sanded to a shiney finish, will get some photos tomorrow, though my wheels really need a refurb, gary 19's are great but they really show how small the OEM disks are lol

i was thinking you get them ill have your works lol but on a serious note, how would they even sit on a 300? surely you would be rubbing the front camber arms with that off set?

here ya go matey http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Garsons-Deep-Dish-5x114-3-18x10-18x9-5-Low-Offset-Drift-Wide-Hellaflush-/200823252287?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Rims_Car_Wheels_ET&hash=item2ec1ffa53f im drooling to say the least lol

well, the temp gauge is now working, though i have the same problem i did with the blue one with it, even though its a different gauge completely, the temp is showing less than what the temp actually is. temp is showing 62degree's yet i know my car idles at 77.

for those wising to clean terminal connectors, we all struggle trying to find something to clean the pins with, mainly using a small precision flat head screw driver, sand paper and what ever else has a good contact to rub the crap off the connectors, sometimes with varying results and some times with out paying attention can inadvertently make the connection worse by making the gap wider between the pins to stop it getting a decent contact. So if you want, here is the correct tool for the job. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Automotive-Electrical-Wire-Terminal-Connector-Cleaner-Restorer-USA-/280951350170?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item416a01639a fantastic bits of kit and well worth the money