vodkashots

Your best bet would be to talk to JeffTT about getting it done, its a box that attaches to the clock. Jeffs your main man on that one. Zedworld in the trading section. Give him a ring in the morning. he will also supply a certificate for the job done.

jap cars are limited. you will be better off getting a KPH to MPH converter.

Tiny bubbles are indicative of a leak, it has to let air in to leak water out. You can use a program called Blitz / data scan or consults to read engine codes. or you can do it the cheap way and take the kick plate out from behind the little carpet flap in the passenger foot well, on the side of the ECU behind the wooden board. is a little screw on the left hand wall of the casing. turn this screw fully clock wise, wait 2 seconds, then turn fully counter clock wise. you will now be in diagnostic mode. now go watch the flashes on the dash (engine light) long flashes indicate the first number, short the second. if it reads 55 (5 long followed by 5 short) no codes are being registered. if its readying anything other than that. jot them down, take the battery off for 1 hour to reset the ECU, reconnect it. take it for a drive (obviously being careful as you have a water leak) and then check again. If you have code / codes showing anything other than 55, put them up and ill let you know what circuit we are looking for a fault on. the water pipes that go to the matrix are near the top of the engine slightly to the drivers side at the back.they go into the firewall and then to the matrix. you can do a temporary fix by looping the pipes at the back of the engine. so one feeds into the other. but you will lose heating inside the car, but should stop your floor getting soggy.

Welcome to the forum bud, Heater matrix or pipe from back of engine on the inside of the car is split, you can do the Heater matrix with out ripping the dash out but its one fiddly bloody job. +7 boost only, is safety boost. you will need to do a ecu check to find out what codes are showing as to why its in safety boost. Then reset the ECU drive for a bit and see if you get the same codes. Reason your temp is showing that its not over heating is its reading air rather than water temp, so you should really have the car off the road until you either do a matrix by pass or fix it. The nearest zed specialist to you is Zedworld in tamsworth. give jeff a ring, his contact details are in the traders section. If you need more info on any of the points ive raised, let me know.

the other thing, make sure you have standard lights, and not the Electro luminescent ones fitted, as the EL ones do not have the low level fuel warning light. 10miles to a fiver, would depend if you floor it every where, but if that's under normal driving conditions, that's a bit low. should be around the 15 to 18mpg around town and 27 to 28 on a long motor way cruise. (well thats what ive found in mine)

Might be illegal as stated in the kit (for off road use only) but I'm yet to see anyone on here fail the MOT due to it.

This is the only text i can find on the page that is linked in that so called article that states anything about engine chipping. rest assured people, its scare mongering. I doubt they will bring in a rule about HIDs when all it does is add to the safety of driving at night.

Thats another point, I've seen plenty of cars with factory fitted HIDs with out headlight washers. why would a car need them just because its got HIDs? shenanigans i call it. and the other thing is, when doing a google search for 2011 MOT test new rules, the only website with that information that keeps coming up, is the one posted in by baz.

They are quite small to be honest, they just look big due to the amount of pipe work and cabling, move all that out of the way and take the fan off the front, and they are smaller than you think. And if you take it out of the car, be amazed at how much power can be fitting into such a small design :D

wasn't there something like this about HIDS floating around in 2003 and 2004 and nothing ever came of it? as i said, i doubt this is true. Not only that, the wreaks to riches website points to a 2010 page? surely if this was true they would point to a 2011 page with the information on.

eh? cant find the section that says about HIDs mate, i think someone is scaremongering, sorry even did a page search on the inspection manual 2010mot website. I've done a page search for HID / AFTER MARKET and XENON and HEADLAMP and found nothing , got 12 hits for headlamp but nothing about HIDS mentioned http://www.motester.co.uk/TradeMagazines/MOTTestingMagazine/2010MOTInspectionManualChanges.aspx

i had one for 2 weeks then sold it on to my sisters boyfriend as all he did was pester me until i did. originally bought it for a project car, nothing majorly wrong it, bit ruff around the edges but mechanically sound.

you need to grab bigger pictures off the web, although id enlarge that, its still going to be small

i do, but its so fine a grit paper, you brush the dust off and it still looks like you just sprayed it on. i only cut it back the once, then give it another coat. gives the layer a good bond, then lacquer the hell out of it. but would ideally want to try the 2k stuff after looking at boldys new engine bay. it looks stunning. although i believe boldy was using a air compressor and air gun

i have been tempted to change the thread title for a giggle..... :shifty:

Ill enlarge your pictures for you, but im not blowing up your thumbs, id imagine you might need them for driving the zed and boy things in the bath room when the Mrs ain't around lol

i think its between 5k and 6k for a good white look, any hotter than that and it goes into the range of blue which is illegal

No! sit in the room on your own :lol:

Rec = recirculating (just cycles the air in the cabin) Econ = Air conditioning Off = Off Auto = it does it its self as long as you don't touch anything. including airflow, But you need Auto on, to be able to self adjust airspeed using the fan speed settings. low - medium (lights off at the fan speed control) and high, also if Auto is on, the moment you self adjust any settings, you have put it into manual mode even though there are no controls to adjust the airflow (should still do this automatically) but you will have to adjust air temp and speed your self. Then the obvious front screen demist button, to clear the windscreen. and temperature set controls There are two other air control pods though for the zed, one has a turn dial on for airflow control, with sliders for heat adjustment. The other has a digital air direction control, usually called series two pods, that will also need the ECU if you can find some available and upgrade yours. Hope that helps.

If you want banter, good information, a great group of people, and a good laugh every other day. you may as well join here. we also have the biggest number of active members on at anyone time in the UK so always someone on here who can help you out, even through out the night which is scary :lol:. plus with our traders section we host some of the best people in the business to get your parts from. and no I'm not talking with biased breath. take a look around the forum, it shows for its self Have fun and enjoy your stay :D

if it is, they are some very sexy alloys on there.

small dab of silicone seal would do the trick i take it? as it keeps pretty much supple so absorbs vibrations?

i keep looking at them, and want some so bad, just for some reason never get around to getting my self some lol

just dont park your jeep ontop of my zed. i have to get the kids home

my oscar and my tinfoil barb, yes he really was bigger than the Oscar and they were inseparable lol, and also my 16 and half inch Gibbycepts