vodkashots

the biggest issue here isn't NK its self, its Russia and china and what their views are, SK brought the US patriot missile system (albeit the older one) from the US, the US its self has the Patriot missile system, a proven system at taking out ballistic missiles. So unless NK has a shed load of intercontinental ballistic missiles with which to fire, they will only manage to pull the trigger, i highly doubt they would hit the target. The US on the other hand, have the ability to just fly over and bomb at will, not only with the B52 heavy bomber, but also with the B2 stealth bomber, they wouldn't even have to "launch" as such, but you can bet your bottom dollar that currently US nuclear subs are not far from NK. It would be suicide for NK to launch, but then the country is brain washed into a "glorious death", they have pretty much nothing apart from a military as well. The new leader had the perfect opportunity to set aside indifference and actually work with the wider world for the benefit of his own people, but due to brain washing by his own father, decided instead to act like a big kid and start bullying instead. Not sure they fully appreciate who they are trying to push around. Unless Russia and china finally say "stop it you little shit" or "ok that's it, we back America on this one" then tension is going to be high, but i cant see the Americans backing down on this. lets just hope china prefers their economy over that of war, and Putin see the light.

People say about raising the front of the car, but you do not need too, just stick the heating on full and hottest temp, open the rad cap and the little bleed cap on the opposite side of the rad, start the engine then top up as necessary, it might take a while depending on the amount of air in the system. i top up till the water is coming out of the cap and the bleed valve, then put the cap back on the rad then the bleed cap. Though you should be able to tell if its an airlock, as when the car is up to temp, if you set the heating to 40 and blower on full, if you rev the car to around 4k, it should bring hot air into the system and around the heater matrix. The other thing it could be, is there is a thermostat on the A/C box behind the glove box, you might need to replace this as it might not be opening the valve to the heater matrix properly.

You can wire the switch to stop the car starting when its in gear. i know that from when i was looking to do my own manual conversion. Well had ago at adjusting it today, that pin for the clutch adjustment is a pig to get to and turn, but certainly didn't stop my clutch slipping, so its defo new clutch time, though the bite point is still just after you put your foot on the pedal? Some advice would be to remove the plastic tubing for the Air coming from the fan blower under the steering wheel, you get a lot more room to play with lol

mine doesn't, must be a conversion thing, none of my standard manuals have done that. The switch i have on mine is for the neutral, it gives slightly higher revs when the clutch pedal is pressed.

i doubt 25 mm is going to significantly add much to the wear on the wheel bearing, not enough leverage away from the hub for that. Yes they will increase wear on the bearings, but not by too much, you wouldnt be going through wheel bearings every 6months lets put it that way. I want to get some wheel spacers but not sure on the best way of finding out the sizes i need. my fronts could really do with some, i think i need about 5mm on the rear thought just to bring the tire out to the arch a little more for a better stance.

Found this matey http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=880853 and this for reference on the pedal. So what im gathering is, Undo the clutch switches locking nut and rotated them back until the threaded part of the switch is level with the welded nut they are screwed into. Undo the locking nut on the clutch rod coming from the back of the clutch pedal that goes to the clutch master cylinder through the fire wall (would be the same even with a clutch booster between them) Rotate the clutch rod to press further into, or further out of the firewall until the green pad starts to close the switch pins into the switches. Once the little green pad that hits the clutch switches closes the switch, but with out applying pressure on the switch its self (the switch housing not the switch pin) lock up the restraining bolt on the clutch pedal and the switches and you are done. wow that actually seems simple as hell lol

Plenty of people have been using hubcentric spaces with no issues for a loong time. i cant see the issues with weight if you are going aluminum

Mines the total opposite, i only have to put minimum pressure on the clutch and its released it. would be handy to see if that is actually the cause of my slipping clutch rather than my friction disk being very low.

can we get back on topic now please :)

well i never knew zcenter links were banned? there is only one site i know of that is banned and it doesnt sell zed parts as a company.

Well, bit of an update on this, brought a £2 R232 to USB conversion cable from amazon (spared no expense lol) plugged it into my laptop, and connected it to the RL TC ECU, have adjusted the launch revs to 4600 soft cut, and 4800 hard cut (not sure if it needs to be set higher than that as cant really test a launch due to slipping clutch) Also set the tire sizes for rolling circumference, and number of pulses from the ABS unit (old software used to use Teeth, now its pulses, so set it for number of teeth on the ABS wheel) only thing i now need to do is find a empty car park and do a calibration of the system, which is just a straight run, with a full lock U turn and back to straight for it to fully calibrate the driven from the reference wheels, obviously not at stupid speeds lol So at the moment, im loving it more, can kick it into launch very easily and have it set to turn off launch when the car speed is 30kph. well chuffed.

Different, there are extra plugs for the TT, like the boost sensors, boost solenoid, i would imagine that would be it to be honest, it would just have extra's for the boost stuff. when looking for ECU pin outs for my racelogic traction control install, i only found one, so id imagine the important things like injectors, coilpacks and such are the same wiring location on the ECU plug.

not sure i like those wheels on the back though dude, look way too small and although the adjustable height handle is practical, im not sure i like the style of it:lol: I think those TSW's from the first post (last picture on the first post) look very tasty to be honest.

Yep, can confirm these are the front water pipes that the sensors bolt into

There is a few outlets on that rear valance, there is the hole for the rear air vents and also a drain hole for the aerial, and usually it rusts around that point, but its not a MOT failure that i know off as one of my zeds past its mot with a rusty hole in it.

as above, anything over £18 on exchange rate is possibly due a import tax at 20%, then if its royal mail, its a £8 handling fee.

Same one as whats on my black car. when the ignition is on you can hear it testing the solenoid every second or so. they are supposed to have filters on the vac lines, so id say that it stands a chance of clogging.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-berth-tent-Igloo-/171012690061?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27d126908d

i have a perfect one as well, but would depend if i could get it back out of the engine, shame really as it only see around 4 weeks use and is in tip top condition.

Took me a while before i parked it next to them, might of been before i parked it there.

Well done on Baz and Dazvert making it into the mag with out realizing lol. not sure when this issue was printed. but here is the page spread.

i like the older one.

Man after my own heart, im now on number 7, number 6 is in the carpark out side me house still and at one point i had numbers 5, 6 and 7 together for a while.

nothing here, we have had flakes but nothing settling.

nvm ignore me, just checked your photos and re read what you put. you might just have to use the keylocks for now until you can get the alarm system check over.