vodkashots

Got my PC running in the car again today so thought id get the ODB nissan scan tech running, checked the codes and got error 54 ECU unable to communicate with auto transmission ECU basically, so checked the AT ecu over and checked the cables on the pins, but still no luck, cant run a gearbox diagnostic as i cant communicate with the ECU from Scantech. Also had a strange idle problem today, like every now and then the car wanted to cut out but didn't, like idling properly, then almost dieing on me, then picking up the revs again and idling nicely, then almost dieing on me. Cylinder test shows all cylinders are firing which is nice, throttle position sensor was showing 0.46, timing was showing 30degrees BTDC? which is strange as id used a timing light to set the timing up using the crank pulley and got it at 15 BTDC Sorted out my DET sensor by pass as well, so the only code im showing at the moment is this Code 54. :(

although thats not the correct gasket, it still doesnt answer the question of why your filter is getting wet, or your Maf for that matter, if your nose panel is solid and you still have the little bit of plastic that covers the filter from the opening in the bumper, there must be something else causing it to get wet, even on a sudden down pour with a vented nose panel mine doesnt get that wet, and if the car is sitting still again, no water on the maf or filter.

Japspeed rear boxes as well lol

you in kettering at the moment mikey? whats on sky sports your interested in?

well the TPS is the one that was already on the car, when i had the car running it was showing 0.45v I cant see it changing as i haven't interfered with it, but may as well run my extention down to the car and get the car PC running, need to replace my inverter i think, it gave up the ghost just before engine and gearbox change.

surely it would still change into 3rd though? if i pull off in first then select D it will change up to second, but when i took it down the local industrial estate, it refused to change up to 3rd still, just sat there screaming its head off at 4k revs doing 65. so had to slow down as it was refusing to change to 3rd or even 4th. At the moment its turning out to be a bit of a waist changing the gearbox over, hell even if it worked for 2 days how it should and then decided to bugger up, would of been better than this lol But its doing exactly what the gearbox I've just taken off was doing so i might even have 2 good gearboxes and its something else, i suppose the first thing to do would be check the Auto ECU and see if the cable is seated properly. what is the likely hood the ecu is fobared?

no hold switch on a UK spec mate, just OD, i can try your ecu not sure if there is a difference between the N/A one though and a TT, i am how ever in safety mode, due to the DET sensor, still need to do the by pass. Im also getting a gurgling sound from my turbo water by pass on the drivers side, so think i might have a air pocket in there, only happens when up to temp. Just a few teething problems then lol

around 280 to 290kgs for the twinturbo with everything still bolted too it. Its roughtly 25kgs for the turbos on there own.

Pop in to see me matey I'm only down the road in Wellingborough, but any local pub will do food and should have skysports showing, if not think travel inn does it

Right, after fanny assing about changing the auto gearbox for a working one, ive still got the same problem, the car wants to pull off when in D in 2nd all the time, i can get 1st gear as long as i select it first then move the stick to D, but then it refuses to change to 3rd or 4th. i still get reverse. So if its not the gearbox? what the hell is it? unfortunately the one thing i do not have spare is a Auto gearbox ECU. Before i changed the gearbox and engine i was getting an error from nissan data scan saying ERROR communication to auto box ecu interrupted or something like that.

well yesterday went and checked my tire pressure, fronts were both on 54.4 and rears passenger side was 32 drivers side 17? So someone either didn't realise that 54.4 was way too high for the fronts (actually exceeding its max pressure rating) so quick nip down the garage, i always go by car weight for the correct amount of pressure, so check the door sticker to see how much it is standard. i went for 32 psi this time though, always seems to give the correct amount of wear across the width of the tyre. im running 245/35/19 Avon ZZ3 front and 265/30/19 Avon zz3's on the rear.

was going to say, its on the drivers side rear wheel arch beneath the interior trim to the right hand side of the ABS unit.

well as thats andy isherwoods ride, check his ride section. or old posts, im sure its going to be in there somewhere.

yes other wise there would be 4 part numbers, one for each of the styles and another each for the car versions.

says in the listing that it comes with the trial version of conzults

nope, nissan datascan can use the USB connection from serial connection as long as you have the drivers for the usb to serial cable, you then just make sure you select it as com1 and get nissan datascan to connect using com1 (does this by default anyway)

iirc if its on the drivers side like mine is, it comes on the oil feed to the turbos pipe so if your quick, you shouldn't loose much oil when changing it.

looks like the one ive got, mine how ever doesnt work with the genuine conzults software (not on about the hacked stuff either) will work with the Conzults trial software though, but you cant adjust things, only monitor and even then only limited capabilities due to it being a trail. Though ive had loads of success using it with Nissan data scan 1.51

mines on the passenger side :blink: lol

Ive got mine running from an inverter, to switch it on, I've soldered a wire onto the mother board and ran that into the cabin to a momentary switch (just press it to create a circuit and when you let go it kills the circuit), shutting it down is as simple as using the windows menu in the OS.

strange one this, but check your boot when the lid is closed, see if the boot light is still on, thats drained my battery before on my black zed i had, had to remove the bulb eventually because the switch was broken, but ive found with out a spoiler on the back of my zed i have to give the boot a helping hand to close now as the air pressure inside the car is a bit too great when trying to close it lightly and it doesnt latch.

not a lot by the looks of it. may be worth £20 or so

ive got all mods declared, plus 8k miles per year, whats your milage?

£330 on lynbrook matey.

Yeah I know, just need to make a through checkto see if anythings cracked or not but garage should repair