vodkashots

yep, im ringing pod tomorrow to get us booked in for this, although there are 2, one at the end of September i think it will be a bit too much what with JAE in the same month, but will see how this mid year one goes first, ill post details once ive spoken to pod

agreed harby, best to clean the filter in fish tank water and pop it back in the filter, doesn't have to be spotless it will still work fine. When changing filter sponges, take the old filter out, squeeze it into a bucket, plop the new filter into the bucket of squeeze and let it soak for around 20 mins in there, stick the new filter (with out squeezing) into the filter and pop it back into the tank. dont worry about muddying the tank water when putting the filter back in, this is actually beneficial to the eco system and the water will clear eventually.

well considering it really boils down to what fish you have in there, some like that sort of temp, i had the same issue but the fish seemed fine and even in the summer the tank hoovered around the same temp, as long as the fish are OK i wouldn't worry about it too much, just keep doing what your doing with the water changes to help maintain the temperature bud. just one other thing though, do you have the tank on a wall with the neighbours next door? might find that it might not be your heating effecting them.

i ran 2 very successful tanks, one for small fish, and one for my larger more aggressive fish including a 16.5inch gibbiceps (plec family) a 12inch Oscar, silver catfish, upside down cat fish and 2 aggressive breading Pink Convict's, the water balance was that good, my filter sucked up some of the convicts fry and they grew in the external filter until i found them when giving it a clean one day. Your biggest mistake was changing the filter and substrate (gravel) at the same time, effectively removing 80% of your bacterial eco system. i found running 2 filters together was the best option, that way you could alternate cleaning one filter with out effecting the balance to much, other wise if you only have the one filter, just clean half of it. when introducing new fish, its best to sit them in the bag floating in the tank for at least 30 mins, with ever 10 mins putting some tank water in. Basically go get a test kit from pets at home, you need to be able to test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, what you need is to maintain a balance where your test equipment is showing that you have 0ppm (parts per million) ammonia, 0ppm nitrite and about 30ppm nitrate, you keep nitrate under control with regular partial water changes (about 30%) I used to change the water ever 2 weeks (30% not all of it), test the water once a month unless i noticed my fish were not behaving as normal, clean half the filter every month. to maintain a strong balance in the tank. Basically the eco system works like this. fish produce waist which when it breaks down builds ammonia, the same with fish food, which is why they recommend you feed in small amounts until your fish stop eating, next step is bacteria break down the ammonia in the tank and produce nitrite, both poisonous to fish, some fish can handle this better than others but ultimately you need to get it so the bacteria breaking down the ammonia can handle what your fish are producing so the test equipment is showing 0ppm no a test. the next step is the friendly bacteria that break down the nitrite into the much more fish friendly nitrate. The two biggest places where your bacteria grow are the substrate (be it sand or gravel or a mix of both) and the filter. water doesn't contain that much of it as they need somewhere to harbour and grow. Weekly water changes only really remove nitrate, your fish can happily live in 30ppm nitrate with no ill effects. Hope that helps bud.

its 15 degrees btdc on a auto and manual where did 25 come from? engine needs to be warm and up to temp so its not being advanced by the ecu.

you need to get a water testing kit, cloudy water sounds like you have a bacterial bloom, if you just removed the old substrate and put new substrate in and did a complete water change then most likely you have tipped the balance of the eco system in the tank towards poisonous

no mention of if thats before or after photos. so hard to tell. nice holes though in the body work lol defo not worth 38k, might be porsche buying it back so they can put it out of its misery lol

more likely they are using a proxy server http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proxy_server commonly used by Peer 2 peer users to hide their IP from certain government organisations.

think ill start with those ones you posted up recently, think ill get some new jubilee clips as well and just replace the old one incase they are slipping

hmm how would i check for that when driving lol, looks like i might have to buy one of them boost leak tests.

they will be able to tell with the sensors on the wheels as well, but as far as im aware the new MOT rules brought in stipulate that the bulb needs to function if the car left the factory with it working. IE: to stop people just removing the bulb. You may find if you put the bulb back in, that the reason the ABS is playing up, may be either the ABS ECU, or the cheaper option, an ABS sensor is actually the culprit.

you mean the OEM boost control valves just about the turbos? they are still plugged in based on JeffTT's recommendation to someone else in another thread. but the boost control solenoid thats mounted to the inner wing on the drivers side is unplugged. Its not the boosting thats the problem, its like the boost comes on instantly, but then before the cars changed gear, you hear a shhhhhhhhh sound like the turbos spooling but pushing vast amounts of air past the waist gate, the boost gauge drops to 0 for atmos pressure, there doesn't seem to be the distinctive pushed back in your seat feeling you get with normal boost, the engine revs rise fast, but the torque converter just doesn't seem to want to stick the power to the rear wheels, hard to explain think ill get the mrs in the car tomorrow and take it for a drive up to santa pod and get a video of it on private ground so you can hear what i mean, hopefully my phone will pick up the sound, it is very loud lol If i put my foot down genitally and raise the boost with out using wide open throttle, it will boost to around 10psi and propel you forward fantastically but its a gradual increase of boost.

its on stock boost with the settings i put up, as im yet to tune it, but with the goose honk, only way i can get rid of that is if i dont stick my foot to the floor and boost at around 5 PSI using just accelerator control.

its plumbed in correctly, i made sure of that, so its set to actuator type, which is correct. IE same as in this image. as i used this image as well as the installation manual

ok, so ive installed my electronic boost controller on the engine side of things now. Its a Greddy profec B spec II But either 1 of 4 things is happening. OEM dump valves have the dreaded goose honk so are not coping to well with the increased boost. my lock up solenoid fault on the gear box is having a detrimental effect and not putting the power through the torque converter properly. Or my waist gates are opening to soon. Basically with the OEM set up, you could stick your foot to the floor and apart from the goose honk, everything would boost well. With the electronic boost controller installed, you stick your boot to the floor, it spools up then before the middle of the rev range is reached it sounds like something is opening up, boost drops to 0 and i can hear a very loud shhhhhhhhhhh noise like the waist gate / dump valve has opened and you can hear the turbo pushing air through the exhaust / air rushing past the dump valve, the other thing is the engine revs climb but there is no acceleration happening, as if the torque converter just isnt sticking the power through the gearbox to the rear wheels could that be due to the lock up solenoid fault? This is with the boost controller set at what is recommended for OEM settings boost im looking for is 10 psi to start with so ive set it to 7psi, 3 short of what i want to achive as per posts ive read. This is my setting so far, ive tried playing with the gain, but still not really sure about it all due to 3 settings to change, also where the manual and also people on here have said about boost spiking, ive google and youtubed searched, but still cant figure out what a boost spike is. also did the same for boost surge so have no idea if that's what its doing. i know i really need to replace my dumb valves as they are shot to hell by the sounds of the goose honk. Set 40% Gain 5 % Set Gain 7 psi (desired amount minus around 4 psi) Warning 14 psi Limiter 1% any help would be appreciated, also another thing, as ive got a Auto, i cant stick it into 3rd and test it properly, as even if i let the engine change up into 3rd the moment you give WOT it kicks down.

i took a week out to gather my emotions and spend some quality time with my children, it was hard enough going through the year, and even though some had said "there is no way you can lose this" and even with all the information i had, plus other things (not going to go into too much detail) i just needed to hear the judge say it and get it in writing before i finally believed it. But to cut a court case short, i had to have DNA tests and also drug and alcohol tests, plus a full CRB check to keep my kids, but the safety and well being of my children come first and for most Though it is nice to know that i do not have a criminal record (i knew anyway, but getting it confirmed is a bonus)

As some of you will know, i've spent the last year fighting for custody of my children, i already had them due to this that and the other, but finally last Monday i got granted full residency of both my son and daughter, which is no mean feat in this day and age, i know laws have changed to give fathers more rights, but its still very much in favour of the mother. but thankfully common sense prevailed, and yesterday it was finally fully realised with the post man delivering me the order. Just so grateful that's all out of the way now.

amazing earner for the gov though, they panic people into buying fuel, after putting the price up (by the way the barrel fell 2 dollars) then made people panic, then once people panicked, they then let people know that the strikes cant happen for another week, gives them time to restock just in time for Easter hols, so people will then panic again Hopefully with a large portion of people now on facebook, twitter and all that crap, babbling on about how stupid this all is, maybe it wont happen as bad next week.

My hero lol

So let me get this right, 2000 tanker drivers are complaining that 45k a year and pension up set, is too little for a dangerous job? yet our boys and girls out in Afghan get 24k or there about to get shot at? round them 2000 up, stick um on a plane bound for afghan, then ask 2000 soldiers if they want to earn 45k a year driving a fuel tanker about. solution sorted.

and the're moaning about it? typical

So.........no one else noticed that the price of fuel went up just before the strike? Would be better off boycotting the pumps rather than feeding into the governments hands and panic buying. also if people had any sense, they would just go about it as normal rather than panic buying, this would ensure the strike would be over before the pumps ran dry and everyone would go about their business. Is this strike by any chance going to lower the price of fuel? or is it solely for the drivers benefit?

i think sherrigan needs to contact groover unless this transaction was done off forum.

yes i was very much in love with that car when it was on ebay, and actually wanted to sell my 300 for it :crying: i didnt get it boo!

:lol: just :lol: but..... you know there for sticking in your ears? i love them get the skin coloured ones and when the mrs nags, just pop um in and sit back and relax while she goes into a world of her own.