plazmaduck

The box does have its own ecu next to the main ecu. I've just had the leaking nearside targa problem which drips onto the connectors, two of my wires had come away which gave the problem of taking ages to change up, and O/d not working, it also shunted into gear when it did finally change. Hardwiring did thetrick for me..

I recently used the Scuff Coat type dye for shoes, it dries very quickly but might be best to leave for 12 hours and then buff up. It totally transformed my seats for a few quid and 20 mins work!

It was mot time on thursday - the car passed with no advisories! The tester did however say that if he followed vosa to the letter, he should turn the car away for being too low as the jack wouldn't slide under :rolleyes: On the way back home from MK to Hemel, I noticed plumes of smoke from the car! Luckily (or unluckily) it turned out to be nothing more serious than the A/C clutch which for some reason had decided to give up the ghost. Does anyone know if (1) the clutch can be changed independently of the compressor? (2) If the compressor could have seized and whether it should be possible to turn the pump by hand? The system was regassed less than 4 months ago so oil content etc shouldn't be an issue. Any help is appreciated :)

I'm guessing an oil change was done? You may find this settles down itself after a while. The last 3 cars I've changed the oil on instantly brought in a tapping noise, even though I primed the oil filter etc prior to starting the engine...month or so later in each case, the tapping has gone?!

Update: In addition to the above, when starting the engine, the 'power' light would flash several times. I found the wire next to the snapped one also loose, so checked the whole lot. I've hardwired the two wires and normality has been resumed! It also occured to me earlier, that running the drainage pipe into the sill wasn't going to help, even short term as the sills are at the same level as the floor :headvswal I still need to know the route the pipes take to exit the car, as no amount of scrabbling around gives me any clues!!

Hmmm, I think the connection may have revealed it's purpose - the autobox now takes ages to change up and then lunges the car forward when it finally does change. The box has been flawless up until now and I know there is a control box for the auto located in this area. Will try to reconnect the wire and see what happens!

Thanks for the replies. I still have the air con, but I think the alternator belt is the culprit...It was changed when I had my cambelt done and has more than likely stretched a bit and needs the locking nut loosening so I can adjust the tension. Belt spray works for a short while but not a permanent fix. Cheers again.

Thanks uno, I assume this would be for the alternator? I also need adjustment locations of the other belts Cheers

31 views and no-one can help? If anyone can assist it would be appreciated :)

Anyone?

I've got a feeling they are all squealing from time to time. I've tried adjusting the alternator belt but think it has now reached its limit. All belts are in good order and were checked by zedworld not long back. Is there a diagram that shows the tensioner locations etc so I can understand which direction to tighten etc? Cheers :)

Cool, then I'll just ignore the sidelight fittings, mine are located in with the indicators now. Just need to try and remove the nasty existing ones then fit an earth to the plug as someone hacked it off.

Here are some rubbish pics but they may help a bit!! These are located behind the passenger kickplate.

In the fog Jeff? Shouldn't 2) be the fog light feed, or are you talking about the UK indicator assy?

I've had issues with the car steaming up etc and found the dreaded puddle. My pipe was disconnected as shown in Jeffs pics, I spent an hour scrabbling around the white connector block holder but couldn't find where the pipe should connect to. I've extended the pipe and have had to run it into the sill until I can get more info. The white connector block houses four connectors, one of which is black, a yellow and silver wire has broken away from the block and theres no room to join it. Everthing is working fine and I wondered if anyone knew what this wire connects to?

Having now acquired a set of OEM fogs, I noticed there's room for a 501 type bulb too. I know some of these were used as side lights on imports, but cannot make sense of why there is the wire for this in the loom if it were never intended to be hooked up? Did the UK versions maybe have the three pins on the connector?

Right, update time. I've tried my replacement central lock door mech on the car and fortunately decided to test it without actually fitting it. With no resistance to slow it down (rods etc) the replacement does exactly the same as the fitted unit! It moves partially to each opposite range of movement but only manages about three quarters of it's travel. I can only think that the signal is at fault (the drivers door has a different type of solenoid). It is also a kind of erratic movement which is kind of a similar effect as when AC power is applied to a DC appliance. Might have to convert to the same mech as the drivers side...

My thoughts are that if there were an evident fault with the bottom end, they would have been quick enough to tout for the extra work. If there were no untoward noise anywhere else at the time, then no need to repair/dis-assemble. As Jeff has said, there could be a connection, but to be honest, pretty much near impossible to prove or substantiate now. Good luck getting it all sorted.

I had a similar thing when I kept a car in a damp garage. Even though the car had a cover on, moisture had got under the paint (all over!) but when summer came around and the sun got to it, the bubbles all vanished. I can only assume that the paint was porous and I should have waxed it more often :(

Sometimes it locks fine, probably can rule out adjustment as surely it would never lock??

I've already lubricated the entire mechanism, turned the barrel manually, everything I can think of, so I bought a spare unit to go in. So this means that all 3 connecting rods will need to be hooked up, so it was access to this that I'm curious about, seems like the whole thing is attached by 3 screws? It's also possible that the pulse isn't long enough from the alarm, the drivers door actuator was replaced with a solenoid which is an immediate action unlike the original in the passenger side which has the original motor/worm drive.

I've got to change my passenger door lock mechanism as it doesn't always lock - is it quite easy to do this?

I can't see how you'd know the voltage is jumping about if a meter doesn't show it up? Are the number plate lights on? The sides and brake lights should be on separate circuits to each other. Worth checking out what Baz has said.

Is the hazard light switch returning all the way back? My switch was catching on the pod and causing the problem you have.

Isn't there an option on the V5 itself to notify the DVLA? Most other changes are done this way.