DTA (UK)

Nope - it's just the black dial connector is not making good contact. Open the bonnet, locate the yellow water temp sender on the upper radiator pipe. Next to it is a little black sender (this links to the dash gauge). Pull it off, clean the contact with contact spray and push it back on until it sits firmly. I've seen some people using tie-wraps to hold it in position. Job done. The reason for the dash gauge going up and down as you accellerate/decellerate is due to the big fan pushing air against the sender. If this isn't "seated" properly it will move and the contact area will vary - hence the gauge moving up and down. Hope this helps! Dan

Ok mate - you're on the order book!

I certainly can if there is interest ... :) I won't be doing any stands at any shows this year (got my fingers burned big time last year ... long story) but will be going to JapFest and JAE for sure and will be taking whatever fits in the car! I can also organise a group buy if there is sufficient interest. Dan

OK T - no problem. The X5 ballasts are made from metal and incorporate the latest technology. It also incorporates the ignitor units so you only have one box to fit to the car (per side). In independent tests (in the US and Japan) the X5 ballast came out in the top three for performance and reliability. The X5 ballasts also include technology to counteract the "no bulb" warning light which is triggered in many modern cars when installing HID kits. This prevents the system from triggering and causing all sorts of electrical fault messages. (It's a bit like what happens if you install a LED in a modern car without the required resistor in place). We offer a 1 year warranty on the ballast and 6 months on the bulbs. Any warranty claim is subject to the manufacturer's tests and as we are based in the UK you won't have the hassle of having to deal with a foreign company and international shipping charges. For your information, my own tests between X5, Philips, Osram and Hella based HID kits has shown the following results: 6000K kits tested X5: bright white with a hint of blue Philips: bright white with strong blue overtone Osram: Bright white with green overtone Hella: Yellower than X5 without any blue or green colouration The difference between the 6000K and 8000K X5 kits is not that significant. The latter has a stronger blue tint than the former but not nearly as purple as some of the other kits out there. Also, for those of you who are worried about burning the inside of the light housing when using HID kits, most of them run at 35W which is less than the standard 55W of halogen bulbs and therefore cooler. I've installed these kits in loads of cars including 300ZX, 350Z, Skyline, NSX, Ferrari 355, 360, Lamborghini Diablo, LM002, Porsche 996, 993, 928, etc, etc. All of them are plug-n-play and I haven't had a return yet! Let me know when you're ready and I'll sort you out with a kit. All the best, Dan

Hi mate, I'm so sorry this hasn't received a response. I'm in the process of upgrading the website and server so I'm afraid some messages have not made it to my inbox. Very sorry. Right, brake brackets. I do not have these in stock at the moment but will be receiving some more in the next couple of weeks. The original design is undergoing a slight revamp which is why it's taking a little longer. The bracket costs £28 and postage is £1.50. Let me know if you'd like to place an order and I'll put you on the order book and contact you when their back in stock for payment. Again, my apologies for not responding sooner. Kind regards, Dan

It's everyones mate! Dave, would you rather I send it out to you on Monday for Tuesday delivery? I don't know about you but I'd rather not have £265 worth of equipment sitting in a Royal Mail depot for a weekend ... Let me know mate because I'll be going to the post office in a couple of hours to post them. Dan

Hi T, I supply both those companies ;) My price for the X5 H7 (8000K) kit is £250 delivered (retail = £289.99 plus delivery). Dan

No, it probably won't but I know of plenty of people who keep being pulled over by the police on account of their headlights being the wrong colour. So if that's something you can put up with then I suppose that's the buyer's perogative. I wouldn't personally go for anything over 6000K.

Hi Dave, I'm glad to see the conversion worked! It's a real treat to be able to direct the airflow. By the way, your ConZult will be dispatched today via Special Delivery (you should therefore have it tomorrow). All the best, Danny

Mate, I'm the official UK/Eire and EU distributor for X5 kits :) and can give you all the advise you require. Give me a call if you want to discuss. FYI: 6000K = daylight (ie bright white with a slight blue tint); 8000K = white with a blue/purple tint; 9000K+ = strong purple tint. As you go up the Kelvin scale the amount of Lumens drop which means you're putting less light on the road. I have it on good authority that anything over 8000K is going to be illegal in the UK/EU very soon so best stick to the 6000K kits.

I've just seen the ebay ad and if the picture he's put up is of the actual strut brace then it definitely ISN't for a Z32 as the holes in the mounting plate do not match up with the Z32 template. However, many e-bay'ers put up "generic" pics so he may well have one for the Z32. Dan

I would strongly advise AGAINST buying these hoses as they appear not to have the line locators. These locators are an absolute MUST and without them the car will fail an MOT. As far as I know I [DTA] am the only place in the UK where you can get Goodridge braided hoses with line locators. These kits are not put together by Goodridge and I have to get a separate company to fit them to the lines. Price wise you're looking at £100 per set from me, which includes front and rear lines. (Got two sets in stock at the moment) Dan

Hi Kev, Glad to hear you received it in good order and everything fits nicely! Thanks again for your patience. All the best, Dan

Hi Lee, Sorry to hear about all this - think it'll be quite expensive to sort. 1. headlamp alignment - a simple bolt at the back of the headlight unit controls horizontal alignment. However, you'll likely find that the gearing used inside has cracked and non-functional. If this is the case buy yourself two sets of Tamiya diff gears (do a search - info galore) and fix both sides. I did this on mine and it's a 5 minute job (granted, my lights were out of the car). 2. That's a bush replacement - can't tell you how much ££ though 3. This is a big problem. As far as I know you can't get replacement brake lines from Nissan and I wouldn't trust getting them off a breaker. Only option here would be to have them fabricated which costs shed loads. :( 6. Didn't think this was an MOT item or is it a case of "if it's fitted it needs to work"? If so then it could be as simple as a disconnected hose underneath or defective nozzle. As far as I know they both work off the same pump so if one side works it's not the pump's fault. Think you can get replacement nozzles from Nissan at a fairly reasonable price (but don't quote me on that) 7. Take the car to a local automotive welding place and get a quote. You may find that they need to take out part of the interior to protect it from the heat generated by the welding - this is likely to bump the price up. All in all you need to consider if it is worth doing all these repairs in light of the car's potential resale value. I know you don't want to hear this but it may be more economical to break the car and buy a better one from the proceeds. Just my 2p worth mate - keep your chin up, it's not the end of the world. Regards, Dan

The best way to budget for an engine rebuild is to first consider how much money you've got available and then look at what you can get for your money. Dan

Hi Steve, I've been after the bulb holders for these "501" blade connector bulbs for months now ... and can't find a supplier :( If you (or anyone else) comes up with a source please, please, please let me know. What you could do (temporarily) is to solder on the wires. Just make sure you connect them the right way around as LED's require the positive feed to be on the correct side (if that makes any sense). Regards, Dan

Hi Diane, If you're just after standard plates I'd suggest you go to Halfords or any other motorfactors ... If you're after something a little fancier then try http://www.fancyplates.com Regards, Dan

I also sell these. £35 plus £2.50 delivery. Also have the appropriate silvertec bulbs to go with it (the ones which are silver but flash amber) - gets rid of the "fried egg" look. £7 for the pair. Everything in stock. Regards, Dan

Front side lights are 501 type Front fog lights are H3 with a spade-to-bullet connector conversion I have all the above in stock if you're interested. Dan

Following on from Iain's response, if you buy the genuine 99-spec centre panel it actually comes in red (but doesn't light up though). HTH Dan

Thanks for the reminder Rich - I've just sorted out my entry ticket with Suzy! I won't have a stand this year (following last year's disasterous sales and wrecked gazebo/stock) but will bring lots of goodies in the boot! Speak soon mate! Dan

A good friend of mine has run a Tuscan S for about a year as his daily drive (!) and I've yet to hear him stop going on about how wonderful the car is. He's not had problems with TVR garages for services and as far as I know has only broken down ones and that was due to a flat tyre. New TVRs are a lot more reliable since the Russian took over the management of the company and they actually come with a decent warranty now. Although I wouldn't class it as a supercar as such its looks and performance are out of this world. I'd have one if I had the cash. You need to make sure you've got sufficient budget for regular maintenance and a contingency fund at your disposal before you buy one of these machines. Dan

Hi there, Yes, a nightmare they are but not impossible. Dip Beam (ie the round ones on the outside): Take the plastic ring and rubber cover off. Disconnect the wiring loom from the bulb. The bulb is held in with a spring clip which needs to be undone before you can take the bulb out. Reassemble in reverse order High/Main Beam (ie the rectangular ones on the inside): Take the plastic ring and rubber cover off. Disconnect the wiring loom connector (this is a PITA job as it's difficult to get to but have patience) The bulb is held in with a spring clip. You need to press the two metal ends together and pull the get the bulb out. The bulb will now be held in the assembly you've just pulled out. Reassemble in reverse order. I find that the Main Beam bulb is most difficult to get to as there are wiring looms, etc in the way. Perseverance will get you there but I have known people to take out their headlights to get to the bulbs. Taking the headlights out is another BIG PITA job ... so don't go down that route if you don't have to. Hope this has helped somewhat. Good luck. Dan

Hey Jason! Long time no speak mate! I need to talk to you about a couple of carbon fibre projects I've got in the pipeline but haven't got your number anymore. Could you e-mail me on info@dta-motorsport.co.uk and I'll get in touch with you. Looking forward to speaking with you mate! All the best, Dan

FYI: DTA-Motorsport sell what is probably the best quality aftermarket HID kits. On a 300ZX they are truly plug-n-play, no modifications required at all and the install is completely reversible in a matter of minutes. The kits are available in 6000K and 8000K and the club price is £250 + £10 delivery. These can be installed by a novice or I can install them for you at a fee. Dan