DTA (UK)

Ed, Just to clarify things, the throttle bodies are actually part of the front of the engine. Therefore, you need to remove the two inner pipes (not the outer ones) - they are the fat (2.5") pipes. When cleaning the throttle bodies hold the butterfly valves open by putting a screwdriver in the throttle cable linkage. You're then free to spray carb cleaner into the throttle bodies and clean them out. Once done you may want to leave them open for a short while to allow any carb cleaner to evaporate as you don't want to ignite it when you fire up the engine. If you really want to do a good job then you need to clean the idle control valve at the back of the engine. All the crap that came out of your throttle bodies will eventually make its way to this valve. You can either spray some carb cleaner into it and clean it like that or take it apart and clean the parts. Finally, reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for about an hour or so (good idea to disconnect at the beginning of the job). This will clear any self-learned values and you'll start with a clean slate (so to speak). HTH Dan

Yes, we provide a comprehensive user manual which includes performance date of what the parameters should be. There is also a trouble shooting section and instructions on where to look, what to do if there are problems. If you're a registered user you have free access to a support forum over on yahoo.autos. Plus, I'm just a phone call away and can sort out most problems if not on the phone then via e-mail.

OK - this has been a useful exercise (despite what I initially thought to be a bad idea ...) As suggested previously (by various people) I think there is good reason to post the following: 1. A general document stating all the STOCK performance parameters. It should be made clear that these values depict what the various parameters "should" be for a completely stock car, ie - no modifications at all, and when the car was new. 2. A comprehensive FAQ document for both the Blatz and ConZult equipment. I would not be happy posting the user manual - it contains proprietary information 3. A clear list of contact details to obtain further technical support from the reseller I think if we can get the above together and stick it in a separate section then it will be of use to people.

I'm sorry if I sound a little "bitter" about it all - I assure you it's nothing personal. I agree that there should be freedom to exchange information freely on this forum. As far as I'm aware AudioNav is not an official reseller of the Blatz product (David - please correct me if I'm wrong) but he did kindly offer to organise the GB. I have no problem with that at all. I do not personally own the Blatz equipment but I have recently "tested" it and was left feeling short changed by the product. There simply isn't enough support (either in print or via phone/email) but as with so many things in life, you get what you pay for. And that is in no way meant to sound as if I'm belittling the product as I was quite impressed by the build quality of the cable (not so the datascan software though - but that's a generic piece of software). Sales of the Blatz product hasn't adversely affected sales of the DTA ConZult. These two products are aimed at a different target audience and are used for different purposes (although the main aim of both products is the same - diagnostics). It's not a case of whether our ConZult is better than the Blatz product - they do different things. Our equipment is increasingly used by performance specialists and even franchise Nissan dealers/garages who can't afford the official Nissan Consult equipment. The fact that there is a £200 price differential is not something that should enter into the equation for someone who's looking to purchase either of these products. The customer knows what he/she wants/needs and bases their decision on that. Back to the matter at hand: a separate Blatz and/or ConZult section on the forum. From an organisational point of view it makes sense to set up separate sections. However, where do you stop? Between all of the traders on this forum there are hundreds of products which would benifit from having separate sections. If this idea is to go ahead then I would like to suggest (much like Clarkey suggested) that it becomes part of the FAQ section. We [DTA] already operate a separate support forum (which is used by a lot of members on this forum) and also ship the ConZult equipment with a comprehensive FAQ and user manual on the CD-R. I would be happy to put our FAQ's into the FAQ section and suggest Blatz UK do the same. Finally, I want to make it clear that I do not want this thread to turn into a ConZult vs Blatz epic - which is better, why, etc - this issue has been dealt with many times over in the past. So, if it's a comprehensive FAQ section then I say "good idea". If it is a full support section then I'm afraid my decision must be "no" for reasons I've already explained in my previous post and this one. Support should be dealt with directly between the customer and the trader/reseller/distributor.

Unless the Blatz UK people fork out the £100 a year it takes to become a trader on this forum then I'd say "no" to the suggested idea of putting up even an info only section. I'm sorry if this rubs some people up the wrong way but I don't see why I should pay the full traders fee (and have been paying for the past three years) and someone who's not even a paid up member gets a free section. Regardless of whether it is an info only section it will promote sales and that would contravene even the club's own trade rules. If this is such a good product why isn't there full support (either via phone or via their own website). Doesn't the product come with all the relevant figures and data in the form of a user manual, etc? I'll leave you to draw your own conclusions. Dan

Assuming you're running Windows XP, have a look at control panel -> system -> hardware tab -> device manager -> ports> There it should be mentioned which com port is linked to your USB port. HTH Dan

This is why you should always go to the scrappies wearing very baggy trousers (a la MC Hammer) ... very easy to fill with "small" items that "accidentally" fell off the breaker ;) although I can see a potential problem with the seat ...

There's got to be a EU law lying around somewhere that forbids these two from procreating ... :mac1:

Doh!!!! :headvswal: Brain not engaged and the only braincell I've got left was out on a fag break. Apologies for the oversight - will amend my original post. Dan

Yes, but mind that body panels/nose panels/etc is currently the domain of Russ at 300zxstyling.

You've just hit the nail on the head! This is exactly the problem these days. Because the prices are so low the car becomes "available" to a group of people who (a) do not have money for something newer, (b) can just about afford the insurance after paying for the purchase of the car and © then abuse it like it's a souped up Nova. Bang goes the engine/turbo/whatever and there's no dosh for repairs. A bodge job is done to rectify what has gone wrong, but only just and the car is sold on for a far lower price than it should. It's a bloody shame ... :(

Basically, these cars are imported at a rate of about 20 a month now with the majority being early model cars (ie 89-92). Not all of them are in a1 condition and get bought by people who, how can I put this diplomatically, don't have the finances (or sense) to run, maintain and drive these cars sensibly. After a short time of ragging the t*ts of the cars, they require a significant investment to put right again and that's when limited budgets/funds really come into their own. No money = sell on at a rediculously low price. These days, if you look at what's available in the market I am confident that 99% is a shed. It's a real shame this is happening because if the car is maintained properly and driven sensibly then there is no reason why they can't still fetch £4k-£5k for clean examples, even for early cars.

Good luck fitting those to your outer pipes! From the pic the BOVs look rather large which could be a problem on the passenger side as it will probably hit the fuse box cover. Also, how do they propose you "plumb" these in? If you've got hard pipes fitted you'll need to drill a hole in the pipe, weld on a nipple and get a 33mm silicone sleeve to fix the Bov to the nipple. Not sure how you'd go about it if you've got the standard rubber hoses ... I'm not trying to be (too) negative and I hope you're happy with your purchase. It's just that I know what a pain it is to fit BOVs to a 300 and wouldn't want someone to have high expectations of it being an easy job. Good luck though. Dan

Easiest (although considerably messy) is to use fiberglass to attach and hold it in place. Dan

Spencer, You are not imagining things - there is indeed a buzzer when you leave the lights on. Thing is that it is part of the same warning system as the 60mph bell and so when you disconnected that it will also no longer sound the alarm when you leave the lights on. Best thing to do is to get a speed delimiter and reattach the 60mph bell - that will remove the 112mph speed restriction, disable the 60mph bell (well, actually it doesn't - it moves it much further up the speed range where you're unlikely to hear it) and your lights-are-on buzzer will work again. Speed delimeters can be bought from Luke at the ZCentre (details in the trader section of the forum). HTH Dan

If you're putting in a HICAS eliminator bar and you don't replace the HICAS arms then the car will still fail the MOT because there will be play in the arms. Best thing to do is replace the arms and then consider whether you really want to eliminate the HICAS system. I know this is all down to personal preference but my HICAS is working fine and I'm happy with it. By the way, HICAS arms are quite expensive from Nissan (can't remember how much but it was on the bad side of a hundred squids). Dan

This is like asking how long a piece of string is. It's very much the same situation as when considering an engine rebuild. First see what your budget is and then shop around to see what you can get for your money. A basic respray (same colour) will set you back in the region of £2k. A more professional finish will average out at £3k and for a complete colour change budget anywhere between £4k and £6k. Remember that there is quite a lot of work involved in stripping the car, prepping the surfaces (including doing any repairs),etc. I'm not a bodyshop specialist so take my figures only as a guide. Have a chat with Steve from BodyWorks (in the trader section). He comes highly recommended, won't charge you for things that are not necessary and can give very good advise. HTH Dan

Mike, I stock crystal clear front indicator units which have a bulb opening for the indicator as well as a running light. I also stock the silvertec bulbs to go with these units. All items in stock at the moment. Crystal Indicators: £35.00 Silvertec indicator bulbs (pair): 7.00 Postage: £3.50 Let me know if I can help. Regards, Dan

I've just taken delivery (today) of four new Toyo Proxes T1R's from Rochford Tyres (01702 545689 ext 1 - ask for Mike). Good price, relatively speedy delivery and good customer service. They're based in Essex. If you're quick you can still get two Toyo Proxes T1S's for the fronts - they've only got two left and they're going for around £75 each which is a steal! HTH Dan

As we [DTA] are not having a stand at JapFest this year (following last year's disaster) I'm (finally) free to spend the day looking around! If there is a convoy going to the show, and it isn't at some silly early hour then I might join you. Dave, if nothing comes of the convoy you and I can always go together as you're likely to come down the M5 (which is near to where I live). Best way to get there (in my opinion) is M5South, M4, off at J18 (I think) and then up through the country lanes (sign posted from motorway). There does seem to be quite a queue around Castle Comb just before the show opens to the public so it may pay to either go early or a little later. I'm more inclined to go a little later. Dan

99 and 2000 cars can fetch about £20 - £25K over in Japan. Add to that shipping costs, import duty, VAT, tests, etc and you're looking at a very expensive car.

If it's for a ConZult then all the cables, hardware, software and manual are part of the kit - nothing is available separately. Dan

The problem is that only "certain" cars have different connectors on the car side. There is no way of knowing which ones have this and I've been working with Goodridge to get their kits adapted. Don't have any kits in stock at the moment but have several on order. Dan

I think one or two may be "lurking" about on here but do not post. Don't think the other two are ("elderly" owners and not PC litterate).

The cable, as supplied with our ConZult, does not work on its own nor does it work with a Blatz unit. It is proprietary to the DTA equipment. The ConZult does work on a MAC but you'll need to be running Windows emulation software. There are a handful of users on this forum who run our ConZult on a MAC so they will be in a better position to inform you of what's required (I'm not well versed in all things Mac). Dan