DTA (UK)

Hi Si, I use a company who does a lot of work for BMW, Merc, Honda, etc. In fact, Honda UK contacted me to source the car mats for the final 12 NSX's brought into the country and this company did them for me with the approval of Honda (and subsequent NSX owners). You can specify the mat colour, binding colour, stitching colour and logo. Have had their mats in my car for just over a year now and they are still like new. Very hard wearing and good quality. Have a look at the pics, although they don't do the mats justice you'll get the idea. Mat material is of premier quality and similar in structure to the carpet fitted to the 300 (ie the stuff that goes over the transmission tunnel, not the shag pile crap). Price: £97 + £8 p/p per set. Pricey, yes but well worth it. They are taylor made for the 300 and so fit perfectly. Regards, Dan

I've been having the exact same problems for over three years now and nothing has resolved it. Put in new PCV valves/hoses, new TPS, all fluids are leveled correctly, etc, etc. I tends to do it more when the car is cold but I can make it happen at any point by just braking hard. The only way around it has been to release the brakes at the point where the engine seems to stall and make the car move forward slightly. I am now thinking - after a discussion with Lymon - that there is a mechanism which releases the auto box into neutral and this isn't working correctly. I also sometimes feel the box going neutral and then engaging again as I'm on the brakes at say a junction. It is just a slight nudge agains the brakes but enough to make me think there is a switch which isn't disengaging in time. I'm no looking into that. FWIW: cars stalling due to clogged pcv valves usually occurs whilst going around corners, not when coming to a sudden stop. Dan

You would have thought that the people who "developed" this stuff would have written a user guide .............. :x: :mac1: ;) Dan

And don't forget to wire in some extra access points (ie inside one of the wheel arches) in case the power fails and you can't open the doors via the remote/popper. Talk to Leigh (Friday on here) - he's completely de-locked his car. Dan

As far as I'm aware there were two versions made of the right hand side pod - one with cruise control buttons and one without. The cruise control button is not available on it own. I wouldn't recommend buying another pod with the cruise control button and modifying the wiring at the back mainly because any fog light switch needs to be clearly illuminated when in use (MOT requirement) and the cruise control switch does not light up. I would also hazard a guess that on non-cruise control equiped cars the cruise control light on the dash is also disabled. I suppose you could modify the wiring to the cruise button as well as wire up a blank warning light on the dash in order to get around this but quite frankly I don't think it's worth the hassle. You can get illuminated rocker switches (make sure you get a 12V version, not 24V) or wire in a small red LED inline with the switch. Then run a wire from the switch to the fog light and you're done, all for under £5! HTH Dan

Hi Andy, You could be right there but I've just been in touch with Simon (Sixpence) and his UK spec zed has a bullet connector as well ... All I need now is to find out the size of the bullet connector and whether it is male/female and I can fabricate a conversion lead. No where did I hide that UK-spec Zed I've been hiding from my wife ... (kidding!) Dan PS - if anyone with a UK spec Zed has the time to go out and have a quick look at the bullet connector then please let me know what type of connector is on the car (ie male/female) and what size. Any/all info received with much thanks!

Hi mate! LOL! We've all done things like that ... don't sweat it! ;) Just a quick note for you (and all other UK-spec Zed owners) regarding connecting the HID kits. I received a phone call from a friend this Sunday who was installing the kit for Emero. He told me that her UK-spec Zed had a different connection to the headlight loom than I have come across before. Basically, the positive connection is a nice silicone covered spade connector (so far so good) but the negative connection is through a bullet connector and not a spade connector. I have not come across this before and so for any other UK-spec zed owners out there with this kit - you may have to fabricate a conversion wire (6mm female spade to bullet connector). I'm sorry if this affects any of the participants in the GB - I was not aware that some UK-spec Zeds have different connectors. I will attempt to find out what size bullet connector is required and fabricate some conversion leads for those who don't want to do it themselves. Please let me know via PM or e-mail whether you'd like a set of these conversion wires (free of charge of course). Good luck with the refit mate! Dan

Nope - you're spot on Andy! I've got good contacts with the company who designed and builds the rear (and front) light clusters for the Veyron and they are indeed multiplexed LEDs.

AndyP is indeed a very nice bloke and can sort you out with various chips. Or, get in touch with me for a DTA performance chip - you won't be disappointed! Regards, Dan

Bird, I recently upgraded from stock 16" wheels to 19" Kahn alloys. Firstly I think 19" wheels look great on a Zed. I can't really say the ride comfort has changed all that much - yes it's a bit stiffer but so what ... As for the increase in ride hight, I measured my the ride height before and after the swap and at the front the car went up 30mm whereas at the rear it was only 25mm. I bought some AVO lowering springs (drop=30mm and 25% stiffer than stock springs) and am looking to install these very soon. If you (or anyone else) want to buy AVO springs then let me know as I am now a reseller of their equipment and can offer a very decent price for a set of four. Have a look at the attached pics to see what I mean. HTH Dan

Hi Ivan, The shield is there as a first line of defense against debris puncturing the tanks - it's not a heatshield. I would say that since Nissan thought it important to put it there you should try and keep it - but that's just my opinion. Dan

There's a group buy going on at the moment. This particular kit has been rated amongst the top three for the past two years (together with Philips and Osram) and is fitted as standard equipment on many General Motors, Mercedes and BMW cars. Top quality, plug-n-play (no modifications) installation and full UK warranty from a UK based supplier. It may be a little bit more expensive but you get what you pay for ...

Hi all, Just a general notification that the HID kit group buy is ending this Friday evening. Anyone interested, please check out the following thread: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=80033 Thanks for your attention. Regards, Dan

Thank you very much Mark and everyone else - your input has been much appreciated. Regards, Dan

Hi guys/girls, Can someone please help me ID these alloys. They are on a P-reg Toyota Celica and the customer needs to find four new centre caps as they were pinched this weekend. I've examined the alloys but there are absolutely no discernable marks or brand names anywhere. Any and all help is much appreciated. Ciao! Dan PS - yes, I have asked this question on one of the celica forums as well ...

Marco - Speak with Eric at DTA (Netherlands) - he will fill you in on the pro-s and con-s of bigger TB's. Mvgr, Danny

I think it is more likely that someone tried to fit H1's or even H4's into the H3 aperture. These are the most commong HID bulb types readily available on the internet. FYI - H3 and H3C bulbs are identical at the bulb base (ie the way they fit into the bulb housing). The only difference being H3C's have two connectors comming off the base whereas H3's have just one. Chris - my offer stands. Regards, Dan

Also, since when is Bubuche a trader on this site? :nono: With respect to what Smithy has said - he's spot on. I've recently had a Lambo Gallardo customer (has a 2006 SE) change his exhaust for a so-called performance exhaust (can't remember the make but it is well known). Put it on the dyno and the car put out 60bhp less! Just goes to show that "upgraded" is not always better. Needless to say the stock exhaust is back on the G-car! Dan

Hi Chris, Sounds like you've had a real nightmare with your HID's and whoever fitted them! FYI - officially the 99-spec headlights came with HID's fitted to dip-beam but not main beam. The "main" reason for this is that by putting HID's in the main beam you will gain absolutely nothing over regular halogen bulbs. Furthermore, using HID's in the main beam is not a good idea because when using them to "flash" you are significantly reducing the life expectancy of the HID bulbs (turning these bulbs on and off requires a large voltage - doing this often will knacker both the bulbs and the ballasts). One solution I can offer is as follows: If your current headlight housing hasn't been altered (ie the metal bits housing the bulbs haven't been cut or altered in any way) then a set of my X3 HIDs will solve your problems. It is a clean install because (a) the HID bulb type is H3 (dip) and (b) no modifications to the bulb housing or stock light wiring loom are required. The leads to the ballast are not long enough to pop the ballasts in the induction/air filter area but they can be mounted behind the headlights or even in the space directly underneath them. Should your headlights be cut-up and altered beyond use then I have a set of spare headlights sitting in the attic. For the right price I could (a) split them and clean them and (b) install an HID kit (dip beam) and upgraded main beam bulbs (normal halogen). If any of this sounds appealing please let me know and we can discuss the finer details off-line. ATB Dan

Gentlemen, I'm afraid we've hit a snag ... One which will not easily be resolved in the short run. The importer of ViS bonnets in Europe has told me that he will no longer be importing them due to the large amount of problems experienced with fitting and the finish of the bonnets. I'm very disappointed about this but also sufficiently worried about the fit and finish of these bonnets. Perhaps this is a blessing in disguise as I wouldn't want to be associated with selling parts which do not fit or look as they should. I will try to contact ViS USA direct to see what their response is to these points and take it from there but at this stage it would seem unlikely that I'll be importing any of their bonnets until I can get a guarantee that the current problems are resolved. My apologies for getting people's hopes up - all hope is not lost though. I will persevere until all options are exhausted. ATB Dan

Yes, it's not such a big deal over on the continent to be driving a RHD. In fact, when I took my Z over to Holland back in 2002 I was offered a silly amount of money for it by a local dealer. Am still kicking myself for not taking him up on his offer ... could have imported a late model for that kind of money ... Dan

Am pretty sure the Germans like their Jap cars - from what I've been told they have the most highly tuned Skylines in Europe! Incidentally, when I was in Korea it was nearly impossible to import a Japanese car. This dates back to the Japanese-Korean conflict way back when. Don't know how it is these days - I assume the restrictions have been lifted or eased somewhat. A close friend of mine had the only 300ZX (SWB manual) in Korea. He was affiliated with the US Army and as such was given an exemption.

I think they're standard Nissan gaskets ... so try your local dealer first. Dan PS - did you speak to Smithy regarding the poly bushes?

Funny that - I lived in Seoul for about three years (mid-90's) and was just on the phone with someone who's lives in Sonbuk-dong. Anyway - back to your questions. Roads in Germany are fantastic - much better than in Seoul. You'll also appreciate the lack of serious congestion (it used to take me up to two hours to cover the 10 mile distance from Yonhi-dong to the Yongsan US army base). There are loads of heavily modified (ie lowered) cars in Germany so you should be fine on that front as well. As for fuel costs - a lot more expensive than in Seoul but not the highest in Europe (I think the UK holds the record at the moment). Garage wise you should be ok. There are plenty of JDM performance cars on the road in Germany but if you really want to have exceptional service and tuning then take it over to our company in Holland (ie DTA-Motorsport). These guys have loads of German owners come over for regular servicing and major tuning/overhauls. They are Europe's number 1 300ZX specialists and people come from as far a field as Turkey, Croatia and Greece to have their cars looked after. One last thing, the weather in the winter is practically the same as in Seoul. I found Seoul to be colder but Germany gets a lot more wind. I hope that addresses all your concerns. All the best! Dan

Hmmm ... hadn't factored in the factory tinted glass. As my glass if JDM spec (ie bronze) I assume it carries a measureable rating. Where would I need to go to get a reading with a light meter? The spanner monkeys at the tinting place local to me probably never heard of a light meter ... Thanks for that very important bit of info Paul. ATB Dan