DTA (UK)

I'm sorry you had problems with the SGP pulley - it was the first (and only) one to date which I've sent out after taking over from Smithy. As such I wasn't aware of any fitment problems with them otherwise I would have either advised you of the problem or offered the Unorthodox U/D pulley as an alternative. Glad to hear you got it fitted in the end and that the belts were spot-on. Dan

If you are refering to the mainbeam/flash bulbs (ie the rectangular reflectors inside the main headlights) then you are looking for H1 bulbs. I have a fair few in stock, uprated (of course) with Xenon gas so whiter than stock halogen bulbs. £11/pair - let me know if you want some. If you are refering to the indicators then that's more complex (straight pins or off-set pins). If you give me a call I'd be happy to explain how you go about determining which ones you need. Dan

They "should" be the same for TT and NA BUT ... the goodridge hoses are not the correct fitment. I have worked for over two years with them to attempt to get the correct fitments on the hoses but for whatever reasons (only known to Goodridge) they have refused to take up my recommendations. They will also not produce them with line locators on the lines (which need to be put on BEFORE the ends are permanently crimped on and not afterwards like they recently suggested to me ...) I am now working with an independent company, licenced by Goodridge to produce all their kit, and they will be making up all my hoses in the future. I am just about to drop off sample hoses for length measurements, etc on Wednesday and after that they should be able to produce them fairly quickly. These hoses will be presure tested to 2000psi to ensure there are no leaks, will come with the appropriate line locators and also have the correct end fitments and adapters in every kit to cover all possibilities. And all that for less than what Goodridge charge me (trade) for one of their kits (ie they kits will retail for less than £85 for a set of 4 hoses). Give me another week or so to get this organised and I'll be in a position to provide these kits. Dan

Pulling codes refers to running diagnostic checks. This can be done via the potentiometer on the ECU, shorting out two pins on the diagnostic DDL in the driver's footwell or much easier by using a ConZult diagnostic kit. When interrogating the ECU it will present stored fault "codes". A code "55" means no faults are stored. Any other code, or combination of codes, needs to be looked at. If you do a search for "diagnostics" and "fault codes" you're sure to find a list detailing the codes and what they mean. HTH Dan

Thanks for the referal Andy! :D Will call you tomorrow re the clutch that has arrived for you. Dan

The way to check is to look at your power steering pot. If the cap has two wires coming out of the top then you've got HYDRAULIC HICAS whereas a top without wires is ELECTRONIC HICAS. HTH Dan PS - Electronic HICAS is on late 1994+ models IIRC

Sorry to heare about the problems. I'm not going to be much help telling you exactly what else you should change/upgrade but if you need prices let me know. Best way to approach this is to see what kind of budget you've got available. Then see what you can afford within that budget and remember to keep about 10% in contingency fund as these things always have a way of costing more than you initially think. Good luck! Dan

Tom, Just got your PM and have responded. Will phone you in the morning to see if we can sort this out. Don't think it's a problem with the rods, just needs a different way of installation. Speak to you later! Dan

Hi, Firstly, welcome to the forum. Secondly, we have brake parts for your car. Have a look at: Smithy's Place I'll have to order the handbrake shoes in as a one-off but that shouldn't be a problem. Let me know if I can help you source the parts. Regards, Dan

Yep - 60psi is correct! Unbelievable but true. It's like driving around with a potential bomb in the back! I've just looked at my space saver (JDM) and it states 4.2kg/cm2 which is the equivalent of 60psi. Also looked at my wife's MX5 space saver which very clearly states "maintain pressure at 420kPA/60psi". HTH Dan Dan

I'm afraid I've only ever seen originals with two screws - never seen one with just one in the middle. Have you a picture of the item? Could help clarify things. Dan

Any cheap coolant will do for a flush but you may as well use water for it, drain system and refill with propper coolant. HTH Dan

The two screws go into a fixed nut - it is likely that the thread is stripped. If it keeps turning you should be able to pull the offending screw out using a pair of needle-nose plyers. You can use the bulb holders for side repeaters. These are commonly found on many nissans and your best bet is to have a look at a local scrappy. HTH Dan

Sorry guys - I completely forgot about putting up pics. I can only find the attached pics as the rest is on a different PC. The "original" pic was taken before the stripdown and clean. You should have seen the crap that was caked on the inside of the glass and projector lens! Cheers! Dan

Thank you Buddha - much appreciated mate!

:shock: I have been looking for the registration DJZ300 for ages as they are my initials! They are on the dark grey Zed in the above pictures - who owns that car!? We need to talk! Cheers! Dan

Hi Vijay, I got mine (ages ago) from a motor factors. Had to cut and bend it to size but it was stirdy and even after 5 years of being on the car it still hasn't budged, broken or rusted! HTH Dan

I wasn't caught in that but it took my wife nearly 2.5 hours to get to work (Studley to Solihull = 15 miles) and all she needed to do was cross the M42. Every conceivable back road is completely grid-locked thanks to this "murder" on the M40.

There is quite a bit of info on this topic but most of it is burried within unrelated posts therefore a bit more difficult to find. Here goes: Side repeaters: (1) Pull the orange indicator lens off the wing by pushing it towards the front of the car and then lifting off from the rear. Sometimes you need to use a small flat-blade screwdriver to push in the plastic retaining pin at the rear. (2) Once off the wing, the bulb holder is connected by a wire to a round connector. Disconnect the connector. (3) Assuming you've bought clear side repeaters which came with a square connector you'll now have to cut off the round connector on the car side and attach a terminal block to the wires. Cut the black square connector off the side repeater and connect the wires to the terminal block. (4) To change the bulb inside the side repeater you need to twist the bulb holder until it pops out. You then pull the amber bulb out and replace it with another bulb (perhaps you've got a silvertec bulb). Reinsert the bulb holder and twist to lock. (5) Offer the side repeater up to the wing by inserting it at the front (ie narrowest part) first and then push it into the wing at the rear - Job Done! Headlight Bulbs: Dip beam (ie round projector lens): (1) Disconnect the bulb from the wiring loom (Jap-spec cars = grey connector block/ UK-spec cars = 1x spade connector and 1x bullet connector) (2) Undo the plastic ring holding the rubber grommet and remove both from the car. You now have access to the bulb. (3) Undo the spring clip retaining the bulb into the housing and pull the bulb straight out. (4) Replace the bulb and reasemble/reconnect in the reverse order. NB: Jap-spec = H3C / UK-spec = H3 bulbs Main beam (ie rectangular reflector): (1) Remove the block connector on the back of the headlight housing by squeezing together the two metal spring clips (this can be quite a fiddly job) (2) Remove the rubber grommet (you now have access to the bulb) (3) Undo the spring clip retaining the bulb and pull it straight out. (4) Replace the bulb and reassembe/reconnect in the reverse order. NB: Jap-spec and UK-spec cars all use H1 main beam bulbs I hope the above description has been helpful. Please note that this is all from memory and may not be 100% accurate but it's close enough. If you are looking for side repeaters and/or any type of bulbs please remember that I [DTA-Motorsport (UK)] carry full stock of every conceivable bulb ... ;) All the best, Dan

No, will not fit - is Toyotal fitment. If you require an Apexi filter for your 300 then let me know as I'm expecting new stock next week (price: £65 delivered). Regards, Dan

James, I have no personal experience with these fitted to a 300ZX. However, I have been in a S14 (albeit as passenger) with this kit up front and when the driver hit the stop pedal it nearly made my eyes pop out of their sockets. Had seatbelt marks across my shoulder to proof it too! So yes, excellent bit of kit.

I [smithy's Place] have a few options worthy of your consideration: (1) Smithy's Place Big Brake Upgrade: 324mm DBA 4000-series slotted discs, Porterfield R4-S pads and calliper relocation brackets. This setup uses the Skyline GTR disc with your stock callipers. Stopping power is greatly increased and you are ready to upgrade to Skyline GTR callipers when they become available. Minimum wheel size: 17". PRICE: £450 (2) K-Sport 8-pot Brake Kit: 356mm rotors, aluminium bells, brackets, K-Sport street pads and braided brake hoses. You can upgrade to Ferodo DS2500 pads for an additional £90. Minimum wheel size: 18". This setup is used on many 500bhp + Skylines R33 and is regarded as one of the best upgrades available on the market today. PRICE: £995 (3) DBA slotted discs + Porterfield R4-S pads: This is the most economical way of increasing your stopping power. The disc are stock TT size and the pads are suitable for fast street and some track use. You retain the stock callipers and no further modifications are required. Minimum wheel size: 16" stock. PRICE: £290 Please note that all the above are for front axle only. Rear big brake conversions are also available (for example: 330mm K-Sport) - please enquire about the options available to you. Regards, Dan

Yep - sure have vacuum hoses in stock (4mm, 6mm, 8mm not in stock but on order). If you're after silicone couplers there are various diameters (38mm, 51mm, 63mm and 73mm). Most of those are in stock as well. Let me know if I can help. Regards, Dan

Oops, misread his original posts in which case it's not legal ... You may get away with it on the road but certainly not at MOT time.

That's no problem. I can guarantee that you'll have your tension rods next week (at work) and will try to get the HIDs posted if they arrive in time. Failing that I'll contact you for your home address. All the best, Dan