DTA (UK)

Or get a DTA-Motorsport performance chip from us. Best of both worlds - excellent daily driveability, capable of running high boost yet maintaining safety maps for when things get out of hand (JWT do not have a safety map). £65 incl socket. +30 to get your ECU socketed and chip installed professionally. Postage is additional. Regards, Dan

No, leave yellow connector connected and disconnect the big black connector which goes directly into the TPS. Dan

Adjusting your tps won't neccesarily affect your idle - that's held by the ECU IF your base idle isn't set correctly. And that's a whole different kettle of fish! Suggested course of action: 1. Replace O2 sensors 2. Clean Idle Adjustment Control Valve 3. Reset TPS 4. Reset base idle 5. Re-check TPS setting 6. Reset ECU Can't be any more help than that I'm afraid ... But I do know what it's like to be an impatient sod (story of my life!) :) LOL I'd wait until Mark can get his hands on the car - with a ConZult attached it is so much easier to set the above correctly. Good luck mate! Dan

It's not as tricky as it sounds ... ;) But then nothing is if you know what you're doing LOL! I would recommend you make a small mark where the tps is set at now and then start rotating. That way you can always return it to where it was originally. You don't turn the tps to the lowest point - just rotate it either way to see what happens to the rpm's. At some point you'll either hear the rpm's drop or rise and that's the point you want to be at. In answer to your other questions: 1. Yes, it will have an effect on other settings but don't worry too much about that. 2. Just do the reset when you've finished. You may also reset the ECU after you are happy you've set the tps correctly. In the absence of a ConZult just disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for a couple of hours - that'll do the trick. 3. Yes, car needs to be at normal running temperature and if you've got an automatic put it in Neutral. Hope the above clears a few things up - if in doubt give me a call and I can talk you through it (07044016586). Good luck! Dan PS - just a thought, Mark Hanley (aka Topless on this forum) has a ConZult and could help you sort this, plus he's in London as well!

I know this is NOT the way it should be done but I have done this on several occassions when I did not have access to my ConZult diagnostic kit (which makes adjusting the TPS a doddle! ;)) Have the car idling and disconnect the yellow connector off the idle control valve. Slightly undo the two bolts securing the TPS and gently rotate the TPS until you hear the rpm's increasing. You want to secure the TPS at the point just before the rpm's increase. Reconnect the yellow connector. Turn off the engine, disconnect the TPS connector and turn on the ignition for a few seconds (this will reset the ECU setting for the TPS). Reconnect the TPS connector and you're done! For what it's worth, 0.40~0.45V is not set in stone as being the ideal voltage. It is the range which is more important. HTH Dan PS - your best bet is to hook it up to a ConZult and then set the TPS (and base idle while you're at it).

Thanks for that information - most useful! :) Further to the above, most Zeds I see have wiper arms in dire need of replacement (either pealing paint or no paint at all). The easiest (and indeed cheapest) way to remedy the situation is to (a) rub down the wiper arms with sandpaper and (b) spray them with matt black spray paint. Should be easy while you've got the arms off for the above procedure anyway! HTH Dan

Thanks for the info Pete - I shall leave my funny handshakes and walks at home! LOL :)

LOL ;) Do you pay extra for that or is it included in the "entry" price? Just kidding mate - look forward to hopefully meeting you there. Dan

Quick question: Do you need special tickets to park in the club area or is it just a matter of paying at the gate and driving to the allocated club area? I may be going (if it isn't pissing it down) and as I have only ever gone as a trader I have no idea how the "hoi poloi" ;) get in?! No offence intended, of course Lol ;) ATB Dan

What HE said ... ;) LOL!

Hi Chris, I'm sure it's just a type-o but please take note that these cars are referred to as Z32, nor R32. Would be embarassing if that made it into the magazine. ;) Good luck with the shoot. Regards, Dan

Agreed, the adjustable upper arms work best in conjunction with adjustable tension rods (Powertrix = £120 / SPL = £135). The difference in quality/durability between the Powertrix and SPL parts is negligible and I would therefore recommend Powertrix parts. Furthermore, SPL parts are usually not in stock whereas Powertrix parts are readily available. Cheerio! Dan

Will be ordering a few sets of these in the next week or so. Powertrix = £215 SPL = £255 I'd go with the Powertrix units as they are just as good as the SPL units and considerably cheaper. Give me a shout if you want to order a set. Regards, Dan

Hi Liam, One of my fabricators is located in Cheltenham. I completely forgot you're around there - would certainly have dropped by to say hello! Next time I'll let you know before I set of. With regard to the Veyron - reckon it was running "safety boost" ;) LOL! It's a lovely car and has enormous prescence on the road. Was a bit disappointed with the Enzo's. Have seen a few of them before at shows etc. but looking at it through the rear view mirror and it looks very strange and angular. Mind, you don't get to see it like that for long as it blasts past at a million miles an hour!

Had to go down to Cheltenham to pick up some stock and always keep an eye out for fellow Zedders on the motorway (M5 in this case). Seen bugger all but was overtaken (as if I was standing still - which I wasn't) by a black Ferrari Enzo and not 5 minutes later see a red one going the other way! Upon my return journey I joined the M5 at J11 following Bugatti Veyron :shock: Was being driven very sedately so that everyone could have a good look ... Now where did I put that lottery ticket ...

Congratulations Gio! I hope your new car makes more sense than running your TT through London traffic ... Speak to you soon. ATB Dan

The coolant goes into the radiator. Just undo the main cap on the one end and the bleed screw on the other and pour coolant into the main opening. In order to ensure you don't end up with an airlock in the system I suggest you raise the front of the car slightly (either by jacking it up at the front or parking it on a incline where the front of the car is higher than the rear of the car). This orientation will allow air bubbles to go to the highest point (which will be the top of the radiator). With the rad cap and bleed screw off the radiator, start the engine and let it idle for a short while. You will likely see some air bubbles appearing and then need to top up the coolant. After the majority of the bubbles have stopped (ie after a couple of minutes) put the main rad cap back on the radiator and continue to bleed the system through the bleed screw. Once you're satisfied no more air bubbles are coming up you can twist the screw back in and drop the front of the car. Job done. I do suggest you check the level every couple of days for about a week just to make sure the level hasn't dropped. By the way, you should also have around 600ml of coolant in the expansion tank. You'll find this in the right hand corner just behind the passenger side headlight. Look for a yellow screw top with a plastic dipstick attached to it. Check the level on the dipstick and if you need to top this up just pour it down the neck of the expansion tank. If you over fill it you will likely find a small puddle of coolant appear under the passenger side of the front of the car. This usually happens after a run. Nothing to worry about and it will stop when the levels are correct. I hoped this explanation has been helpful, if not then please let us know. Regards, Dan PS - as been said above, Dexron III for the automatic gearbox fluid. Fill it up through the dipstick hole but do little bits at a time.

Vijay - I think the bore size of the two exhausts are different (NA = 2", TT = 2.5" IIRC). You may need to adjust the flanges prior to fitting the TT exhaust. Not sure about this though so I stand to be corrected. BTW - I've just PM'd you re. some brackets you were after. Cheers! Dan

Apologies Dave - I honestly didn't mean to sound self righteous, etc. The truth of the matter is that I get about 4 phone calls a day from people who have seen a certain product on ebay for £xx. They then expect me to price match that price - which I can't. I then advise about the ebay product warranty issues, incorrect fitment issues, etc versus UK warranty, UK based support, correct fitment, etc if the item is bought though myself. Invariably it falls on deaf ears ... but at least the customer can make an informed decision. Ebay has had a tremendous impact on my (and many others') businesses - and I mean that in a negative way. It has created a type of customer who expects to get the world but is not willing to pay for it. Invariably the customer has a problem with the product and then expects me to sort it out. I'm afraid that is not how it works. Please understand that this is in no way a reference to you, it is merely a generalisation which has caused me a lot of frustration. I have to date chosen not to sell through ebay as (IMO) it cheapens the brands and creates a "bargain basement" mentality (if that makes any sense). Don't get me wrong - I personally buy through ebay all the time (not for business but privately) - and it is a good place to get bargains. But I am equally aware that a majority of items are (a) mis-advertised, (b) of inferior quality and © carry no UK warranty. I simply can not compete with ebay prices. So, in conclusion, I apologise if I sounded like a tw*t in my previous post - that wasn't my intention at all. :) Regards, Dan

You can buy new injector and coil pack connector (from MJP). They come pre-wired and can be spliced into the existing wiring loom. Word of advice if you're going down this route - try to splice into the existing wiring loom as far back as you can. From experience I know that most of the wiring over the engine tends to be in very poor condition after 15-17 years. HTH Dan

I can't (and won't) argue with that. However, I will say that if the included Z32 adapter is made from plastic then please be careful when you tighten the clips as I have seen these adapters split and break very easily. At the end of the day the choice is yours. If you want to go down the ebay route and buy a kit which isn't specifically made to fit a Z32 then that's a risk you are willing to take. It could work out perfectly or it doesn't. If you need me you know where to find me. Regards, Dan

Me too .... Dan

Word of caution: This is NOT a suitable filter for a Z32 as the bolt pattern on the back of the filter DOES NOT match the Z32 AFM. Trust me on this - I have made that mistake once before thinking and it cost a bit of money to get an adapter made up. FYI - I do not (yet) sell bits on ebay but am looking into it for the future. Prices wouldn't be much different than if ordered through the forum though ... I have one filter in stock so if you want to place an order please get in touch. It'll be £69 delivered. ATB Dan

Hey Pete, I thought this might interest people ... I'll let you know when they're ready to go. Cheers, Dan

No probs Liam - will let you know when they're in!