Rev1Richie

Hi Guys, got a slight problem, had the car off the road for some work and before the PS was okay, however when I took it out today, at first the PS was as light as a feather, could turn full circle with a finger. During the morning on the way to Cambridge, the PS started to "lock up", whilst turning it would start moving okay (lightness had gone) then it would hit a brick wall, with a bit more effort, whoosh.. it went round.., This "locking up" was happening all the time as I could feel it in the wheel. I have checked the fluid level, and its fine, so any suggestions would be grateful. Rich

Graham, cheers mate, let me see if i can get the one out from my spare in one piece, Rich

CB pretty sure, I ohmed it and it showed 359, 427, 234 etc... it was well fubar'ed Rich

Hi, I might need to buy an injector for my N/A as I cant be 100% sure that when I remove the good one I need from my spare car I wont trash it !!! , now I see plenty of different types, makes, colours! out there, can someone tell me the differences and/or the one I actually need. Thanks Rich Oh, ps if any body has one for sale just drop me a line, as I said, I may or may not get my spare one out fine.

Thanks Gary, seen that one, the main reason the injector in the pic is trashed was because i had limited, narrow access due to the plenum and it was a pig to release due to it being jammed in. What I was thinking was something like pouring v hot water over it to soften up the o ring's and ever so slightly increase the ally hole dia, all in all to make it easy to remove the injector. Would hot water there be an issue? Cheers Rich

Hi Guys, I'm interested in tips on removing the injector from the Fuel Rail (yes?/no?) , keeping in mind they have probably been in there for over 20 years, I tried removing one already and you can see the result in the picture ( Don't worry its from my spare car) so looking for advice like "cover with peanuts and chocolate sauce and it comes out a treat.." you know what I mean. Oh by the way, the Plenum is in the way...

Noz..oh god. I've just looked for the first time at the thread listing under "my threads" and saw my last listing "Broken Cylinder" and I have to say, when you look at it that way, I can see your point. so I do apologise for getting arsie about the title. Normally I got to the thread via my email box which takes me straight to the post in the thread, bypassing the index. I could have PM'ed this but thought it right for everyone to see what a right twerp I can sometimes be. Sorry Rich

Stephen, Noz. Thanks very much, those instructions are just what I need as ive not really played around with the cylinder/electrical area. Noz, broken, failed... does it matter, Broken was the first word that came to mind. lets just leave it. Thanks Rich

Noz, are you trying to tell me its the piston rings? if it is can you tell me the connection, coz noz, ive never heard of that one Rich

"How do I know its number 6" Well the exhaust for the drivers side is behaving normally, ie when I put my hand to the output its smooth and gentle, however when I placed my hand up to the passengers side, it was not as it should be, ie its was thumping in a bang bang bang , against my hand. Now I removed one of the electrical connections to a cylinder on the drivers side and the exhaust output was bang bang bang against my hand, just like the passenger side. I then replaced the connector and the exhaust was back to normal. I then pulled the connectors on , I think, 2 and 4 ie the accessible cylinders on the pass side. Once off, the engine noise dropped on both of them, so after I can get access to cylinder 6 ill be in a better position to asses the problem. That's how I deduced it was a cylinder fail and which one. if there's something wrong with my method, please advise Regards Rich ps, oh when these cylinders at the rear fail, what exactly fails?

Noz, sorry, haven't got that far yet, I'll let you know. Rich

Sorry, first hit on Google from the Nico site. So the one i'm looking at is number 6. With all this knowledge about the failure's of these rear cylinders, has anyone got some idea what the problem could be. Rich

Hi Guys I've got an issue with the number 5 cylinder not firing (first one on the pass side looking from inside) and when I do a bit of research I find that that cylinder seems to have a disproportionate amount of failure from the other ones, is this common knowledge or just luck... Rich

I know it should be set to .44 - .46, but mine is showing .54 . I am having problems at the moment, it drives like it is misfiring, however when I check each cylinder there's no sign of a cylinder not working. I then plugged in my laptop with scantech and it showed the tps as .54. I'll put the tps value back to its correct value tomorrow. I just wanted to know if the .54 value would cause my issues. Regards Rich

Hi Guys, what kind of performance/action would a tps value of .54 give? Cheers Rich

Just a quickie, does either Scantech, Datascan or Consult recognise a misfiring cylinder? Rich

Sorry for the time lapse, but that's what my life is like now.. Just thought id clear up a few points.. By the way, for other interested parties, I have a headlight unit off my spare car hooked up to a 12v psu and took the headlamp bulb and managed to place it in the dip unit and as far as I could see the output was greater than an upgrade bulb produces. So that takes me back to square one. even though the bulbs are marked the same (12v 55w) are they electrically different, Could it be due to their physical sizes? I don't know. Regards Rich

Hi Buddy, was this aimed at me or some of the other comments flying around. Ric

Stephen, Hi. Yeah you're on the right track there, I've put similar bulbs that I put in the main beam into the dips (removed the HID's first) as Stephen says the result was not as impressive as when I put the upgrade bulbs in the main beam. Which is why I'm thinking there might be something in the electrics, just a thought.. Now, is everything clear, any problems just ask, i'll try to help. Rich

Look guys, I'm sure its the right "H" bulb on the HIDS, I got them from Phutumsch on this site. The picture was just thrown there to show the scale of difference between the type of unit used, I didn't check to see the specifics of the photo, Sorry. What I'm trying to find out is whether there is something different in the electrics feeding the 2 light units. Rich

The HID's were the top ones, and the main beam were the bottom ones. (Looks like the Osrams are Halogen, sorry about that, always thought they were Xenons.) rich

On-going issues with my headlights, I'd like to ask a question, I upgraded my main beams to a Xenon bulb, great improvement, if you put the Main beams on and with my hand cut the beam down to imitate a dip bulb, the illumination is great, much better than the HID's. so I wondered, surely an upgraded Xenon bulb on the dip would be the same.. So I buy some and install them. go for a drive on a Dark, Dark Night.. and hey presto, Rubbish!! So what's going on, is there some wiring issue happening that I don't know about that is causing this, Any 'leccy guru's please apply.... Rich

Hi, quickie Do I need to remove the front bumper to remove the front headlight unit? rich

Well this is a bit weird, whilst the radio isn't working neither is the courtesy light, also in the dash, with all the doors closed the "door open" light is ever so faintly on... now I know its not the fuse because its the same fuse as the clock, and that's okay. Then after an hour or so I notice the clock not working, so now I check the fuse and its blown, replace with 10amp and everything is back to normal.. even the radio works, as I said, some weird sh1t going on... so case closed.... for now. Rich

Thanks guys all good information, gratefully received, Andrew, great pic, just what I needed, seems you're helping me a lot lately Thanks Rich