Mark W

:rofl: Good story!

Aw nuts, I can't make Tuesdays :(

I'm one of those common 29 year-olds :) Seems like the most common ages of ownership reflect those who lusted after the Zed when new, or those having a mid-life crisis!

You don't *have* to go that far. You can get away with removing the visible screws of the interior wheel-arch trim and bending it enough to get to the upper shock attachment. But you do have to remove all the plastic trim from the boot in order to be able to do that. I don't have any pics I'm afraid- a mate did it for me and I just watched... :)

Cheers matey. On a different note, has your fury level dropped yet, or shouldn't I ask?! ;)

Where are the best places to get these bits? Not 100% sure it's them that are causing my current vibes but they look like the most likely potential causes. Mark

I thought I'd hang on for a bit, but I haven't received anything yet either. :( Mark

God I'm a bit slow sometimes... I'd noticed that there was a bit of a dead spot on my accelerator pedal, but finally got around to having a look last night. "a bit" turned out to be about an inch, and I found that my accelerator cable was connected to the cruise control throttle cam rather than the pedal cam :slap: . A quick swap later, and there's no slack, the cars a lot more responsive, and I actually get full power :hyper: Mind you, I guess the reverse mod is a simple change if anyone wants their car to be more of a cruiser than a throbbing sex-beast.

Ah good! That sounds about right then. Cheers Stuart :)

:rofl: I love this forum!!!

Well done to all 3 of you! :)

When you had your wheels balanced did it seem to improve then get bad again? I just had an odd experience where it did just that, so I was expecting it to be the prop bearing or g/box mount. Just to rule balancing out I went back to the tyre place just to make sure the weights hadn't fallen off. They hadn't, but when they checked it again it wasn't balanced right! How can wheels be balanced ok, then become unbalanced without losing the weights? :confused: (Confuuuuused... dot com :rofl: ) Anyway, they rebalanced it and it's loads better, but there does still seem to be a faint vibration between 40 and 50, so I may yet have something to fix...

From my experience all aircons can smell a bit when first turned on. I've got a theory on why it can smell bad though- as part of the air-cooling process the air loses its moisture. Depending on the design of the aircon, if it's on all the time then the moisture can build up and go a bit stagnant. You might also find that whenever you run the climate control with the aircon off everything immediately fogs up- the moisture is re-absorbed from where it collected and deposited on your windows. If I'm using the aircon a lot, every week or so I run the climate control with the aircon off and the windows down to clear out any moisture that's built up, and I reckon if you do that regularly you won't get as many smells :) Vat's wot I fink anyhoo. Mark

Hmm... (sorry to butt in with my own question!) so if I'm only getting a reported 5-6 mmHg on my Jap spec gauge at full throttle, does that mean I've got a problem too?! Mark

Or the spade connectors will be different- one thin and one fat, but I can't remember which you connect to what!

Ok, the last bits... 5 attached pics showing: 1 The dial-side of the speedo PCB. The small area in the middle where it says "R10" next to a squiggle is where the old resistor was. Note the artistic new curve incorporated into the speedo dial on the right... :( 2 The rear of the speedo PCB. Near the top, in the middle, you can see the new light-blue resistor which I found was much easier to mount on the rear, but then I'm no soldering expert (which explains the modification to the dial :x: ). 3 The location of the holes in the clock mounting. The scale pot is the one on the left as you look at it. 4 Ditto with the clock assembly in situ. 5 How it looked like from the dial side, with the screwdriver in tweaking position (NB scale pot is now the one on the right as you look at it). All tickety-boo :dance:

LOL probably boring the pants of anyone else reading it all! :tongue: Ok, with reference to my earlier photo it's the one on the left that does the scale and the one on the right that (allegedly) does the offset. Attached are the 1000 words, with the scale pot circled.

Ok. Rested a screwdriver in the scale pot and had a quick dash up and down the local A-road. My mate in the passenger seat read out GPS speed while I drove to the speedo and gave the screwdriver a twist as necessary. After 5 mins I had it so at 70mph the GPS speed would fluctuate between 69.0 and 69.5mph, so I'm happy with that. :dance: I didn't touch the other pot as I didn't need to, so I don't know for sure that it does the offset...

Have PM'd ya :)

If I were you I'd take the whole thing to bits- otherwise, to drill through the clock housing you'd need to take the windscreen out (bit excessive don't you think?! :rofl: ) Secondly if you leave the speedo module in situ there's the risk of damaging components when the bit pops through. Steve-o posted some good instructions on how to dismantle the binnacle. :bow: (and if you want to change the resistor you'll need to do this anyway) http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=297744&postcount=3 I'd add a point: Step 5.5- it helps if you remove the panel under the steering wheel before step 6, as I hate unclipping things when you can't see what the state the clip's in! I'll go into the resistor change when I've taken some more pics...

If it's been converted to mph using a black box, I've heard that they're notoriously unreliable and are prone to the symptoms you're seeing. :( (Although I think a speedo converter is usually mounted elsewhere) Do a search on the forum along the lines of speedo/mph conversion and you'll find plenty of threads on the matter! :D If that's the problem, you'll have to consider getting a new converter or personally I'd recommend either get a whole new set of UK clocks, or swap the resistor on the speedo module, which is what I'm doing.

Ok, so I take it back! :D Just think back to the times when people only had horses... and imagine telling them that some people had transport equivalent to 500 horses pulling a cart round the corner to pick up a six-pack of mead!

Tell you what... this time I'll remember to attach the pics... :xxx:

Gio- :rofl: Is there a joke board on this forum? Dont think there is yet... Alrighty then- these are the pics of my speedo module. They're taken looking straight down, with the speedo facing away (or up on the picture... oh you'll work it out... :slap: ) A small philips screwdriver will turn the pots, and if you look closely you'll see there are 2 dots on the bit you turn so you know where it's actually pointing. I'll be drilling a hole or two in the speedo housing so I can drive along with a screwdriver in the pot so I can tweak-on-the-move. Cunning huh? :D To be continued...

(Sorry- backtracking a bit to what power means...) This all makes sense now. So in real-world terms, power is not terribly meaningful (other than being a nice big number!), while torque on the other hand tells you how well the car will accelerate.