CyrusJH

Hi Guys - Recently the aircon seems to have been doing some strange things. It had been working perfectly up to this point. It started early yesterday morning when it would only seem to pump out cold air (even though I was trying to warm the car) then there was a sudden gush of condensation/steam over the windscreen and the engine temp gauge shot right up so I pulled over straight away. I let the car rest for two minutes and started up again and everything seemed to be working normally. But since then I have noticed it is taking ages to get cold and there seems to be a slightly musty/damp odour in the car all the time. Also I have seen that the passenger footwell seems to be getting very damp from the air vent there. Any ideas where this is going guys??

Craig.... do you have a contact number for HKS? That would be a huge help!!

Thanks Vince - has anyone else had this problem? do the springs need to be rated for the car? (Can't be just me can it?)

Hi Guys, Have not been on here in a while because car has generally been running fine apart from one REALLLLY annoying problem that caused an accident today so I really need to get it sorted!!! At low speeds or from standstill after blipping the throttle the engine almost dies or stalls completely. This is a real problem when accelerating onto slow moving roundabouts when I would blip the throttle then coast or brake to match the speed of traffic. This happened today - I was pulling onto a roundabout blipped the throttle and as the revs fell the car died!! A guy had decided to tailgate me onto the roundabout and ended up veering onto the centre of the island to miss me as I had lost brakes and steering - luckily he did not hit anything - But really need your ideas to fix this. Jeff at Zedworld has had a look at it and he feels that it is the internals of the HKS SSQV dump valves sticking like the springs are not powerful enough to close the valves properly. When he covers the back of the valve with his hand to seal it the problem stops. I have tried to find someone that sells the internals for the HKS valves but can't find anyone. I spoke to SumoPower about it as they are a pretty big HKS stockist and they do not know of anywhere you can get replacement internals but they brought up the point that the valves have been on the car less than 6 months so what are the chances of BOTH valves failing in the same way! Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be as it has happened numerous times now and is really spoiling my enjoyment of the car to the point where I don't want to drive it every day. I don't want to fork out for a new pair of SSQV's only to find that the problem could be somewhere else. PLEASE PLEASE help - all ideas welcome. :angel::cursing::cursing::cursing:

Stella.... you old romantic! I always treat the wife on Valentines day - chocs, roses dinner out the works! (to be fair she gets enough crap from me the rest of the year!)

Heathen!! You'll be asking who's Hong Kong Fuey next!!

Don't want to rain on your parade but without arch work THEY DON'T FIT!! I had these very wheels fitted at WHEELMANIA before Xmas and the offset for the rears is wrong if you have a staggered set of 19" rims. Jeff from Zedworld will tell you, I was looking forward to getting these rims for weeks only to find on the day of fitting that the rears stand proud of the arches after being assured that they would fit!!! Bummer!! went for VORTEX R's now and have not looked back - they are really pretty rims and good luck if you get them but the offsets just didn't work!

... and there was me thinking it was..... "JUST SPEAK LOUDER!!" Welcome mate!!

Going back to the original point of this thread..... don't like 'em mate

What sort of 300? jap/uk? LWB/SWB? TT? N/A? Colour? Can't gauge interest if we don't know what it is mate (lol) ?

Absolutely true - when did prison stop being a punishment?

I have had this conversation with my wife so many times - too many single mothers - too much supporting people who refuse to support themselves - too little responsibility for peoples actions. This country is rapidly degenerating into a pile of crap from these kinds of liberal attitudes. People need to take on personal responsibilty for their situation rather than welching off the state. Last year I was working 3 jobs to make ends meet (including doing night shifts in Tesco's because money was so tight). Too many young people these days blow their money on booze and fags and think they are going to be a pop star or a professional football player... or even worse just can't be bothered. It is endemic in todays society that a lot of kids are simply pig lazy!! (To be honest I know a lot of young people who work bloody hard too but that number as a proportion is diminishing). People blame migrant workers for not being able to get a job but that simply isn't true! The fact of the matter is, most migrant worker who come to this country work bloody hard - usually in jobs that most British people won't do. If these are old fashioned conservative values then the quicker we implement them the better. I have no problem with working hard for the things I want and to provide for my family and if that means I have to go out and clean the streets for a living then that is what I will do. Gits like the one Stella is talking about deserve to be burried..... end of story. This entire thread is a testament to how poor the moral values of this country have fallen.

Looking fantastic mate - NOW GET IT FINISHED SO WE CAN ALL HAVE A GO!!!

Whilst wear on the inside edges of all four wheels points most directly to camber being wrong due to oversize wheels or dropped/soft suspension it can also be an indication of drifting during cornering (check for lateral scoring on the tyre) this can be due to pressures being set up too high.

don't move the wheels - move the tyres then when they are put on the other side they will be rotating in the correct direction but wearing on the opposite edge

Use double sided mounting tape for affixing number plates. I've used it for affixing all kinds of things in the past. You can buy it in pads and reels from Halfords for a couple of quid. Standard tape is 1mm thick but you can get it foam core in thicknesses up to 6mm if you need to fill any gaps

Just fitted this...... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/7-LCD-Touch-Screen-Car-DVD-CD-Mp3-Bluetooth-iPod-player_W0QQitemZ220540940818QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Audio_TV_Electronics_In_Car_Entertainment_GPS_In_Car_Audio_Players_PP?hash=item335943b212#ht_9515wt_1167 and for the money I can't fault it!!

Thanks Madmax - I can't wait to see your zed running in anger!!!! :punk::clap::clap:

Let's be absolutely clear how nitrous oxide works - all it does is temporarily add more oxygen to aid additional fuel combustion and hence more power. Do this to a poorly built engine and you will be picking your valves out of the ceiling before long so the associated engineering needs to be faultless. The act of adding more oxygen (as has already been mentioned by others in this thread) is no different to adding free flow air intakes enlarged turbos or any other form of forced induction. You are still just trying to get more oxygen into the combustion chamber. I also totally agree with the previous comment about people running increased boost pressures for dyno runs - if you are going for a max BHP figure then you will bang your boost controller up to what ever you feel your engine can cope with for the run. If someone else has built a stronger engine that can also handle running nitrous then good for them. Whilst offering tables for "with" and "without" nitrous dyno runs would be interesting the viability and performance of NOS enhanced engines cannot be ignored from either a performance or engineering standpoint. It is a performance enhancing mod and a particularly potent one. Most people have neither the time, skill or finances to build a "stable" NOS enhanced engine and for those people who do - more power to ya! (litterally) This is a completely vialble mod and absolutely should be allowed - I feel a bit of the green eyed monster amongst those who would say otherwise.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: Stop being so petty - MAX BHP IS MAX BHP

Sorry Murt - Would have loved to have come but will be up in North Yorkshire that weekend - COME ON GUYS - read the post on the tatsu forum and looks like a good colection of Jap metal! Who else is in!!??

:2guns::2guns::2guns: Sorry Jimmy.... didn't mean to burst your bubble!!! Personally I am a Lardy Fecker - 93Kgs on my todd!!! so you don't want me in your car!!!!

:tt2::lol::lol::lol:

When I said the 300zx was an 1800kg car I may have been rounding a bit but that it is not so far from the truth in the real world. The quoted stock weight for a Twin Turbo LWB from Nissan is 1610Kgs but that is WITHOUT a driver and passenger (allow 80kgs each) - with no fuel (allow 50kgs for a full tank) and with nothing in the boot or on the spec list like electric seats etc (you would be surprised how much the weight increases by speccing electric seats). So when you are discussing brakes it is pointless discussing weights that don't include ALL of these things because that is how you are going to be driving the car ON THE ROAD! (My LWB TT with no "Sillly ICE setup" with driver and half a tank of petrol was recently weighed at 1714Kgs by CenterGravity - so 1800Kgs including passenger and something in the boot is wholly realistic for daily driving) I know JimmyTT quotes his weight in his development thread with 10 lts of fuel on board - just fill the tank and there's an additional 40kg's right there! The car itself may not weigh 1800Kgs but the truth is, that is what the brakes will be trying to stop when you are out for a drive with your mate in a reasonably stock LWB TT car! Whilst I truley admire you guys who spend weeks shaving kg's from the weight of your car, I would guess that a majority of you are driving SWB's with a starting quoted dry weight of 1496Kgs or N/A's which are significantly lighter (you guys who have LWB TT's who have managed to get their cars under 1500Kg's empty - MUCH RESPECT!!) but if you are talking about brakes always better to hi-side the quoted weight and you really need to add 200Kgs for real world driving (2 x passengers + fuel) as I have shown. Caterham drivers are the worst for doing this - they say their Superlight R400 weighs 400Kgs but forget that when they are out on the road with a friend and a full tank the vehicle weight goes up by 50% and their specific output (BHP/Tonne) goes out of the window. Makes me laugh!!! :lol::lol::lol:

Sorry - I've just read what I typed and I'm talking complete rubbish!!:stupid: I am using EBC's with Mintex Extreme pads on the rears and Ksport discs with 8 pot calipers and Ferrodo's on the Fronts. Great stopping power and balance - fantastically poised now they are bedded in.

Very good alternative choice - Dan at DTA gives some of the best advice around!!