ianl

I still dont think the yellow is accessory power, if you had the key in the ignition why would you be trying to lock the car Also ignition power is already available in the door if you did for some reason want it I think it either turns on the interior light or flashes the hazards This is easy to test, stick power on the red, ground on the brown, try the key fob and meter what the yellow wire does The 4th wire i think must be the signal to unlock the passenger door, let me explain... When you turn the key in the drivers door it mechanically unlocks that door and sends an electrical signal to the passenger door So this is what we are trying to recreate with your keyless system. So the lever control unit unlocks the drivers door mechanically, but you still nee to send a signal to the passenger door Again this is easy to test, power it up and meter the wire

Looks to me like the green and the brown splice into something in the door, whilst the red and yellow run out of the door In the door already is ignition power and ground, so the brown being ground makes sense, i'm not sure what use a switched power would be as presumably its off if your trying to lock unlock So red or yellow being permament power feed makes sense I would suggest the green connects to the feed to the passenger door ( do all zed have central locking? My 95 does) Then at a total guess i would think the red or yellow ( the one that isnt power) , feeds the hazards or interior light. Although as lymon says red and yellow normally indicate permanent and switched power

forgot to take photos of the cars, so heres some birds

Just to throw some ideas in, could be talkin rubish, long time since i played with clutch pedals.... Are the switches under the pedal adjusted wrong and stopping movement, i remember when doing mine being told to adjust them out completely before doing any adjustments I seem to remember there being adjustment between the pedal and the booster as well as adjustment between the booster and the master My problem turned out to be i was adjusting it the wrong way, thinking i needed to add presure, but i actually needed to lenthen the stroke

Just to throw some ideas in, could be talkin rubish, long time since i played with clutch pedals.... Are the switches under the pedal adjusted wrong and stopping movement, i remember when doing mine being told to adjust them out completely before doing any adjustments I seem to remember there being adjustment between the pedal and the booster as well as adjustment between the booster and the master My problem turned out to be i was adjusting it the wrong way, thinking i needed to add presure, but i actually needed to lenthen the stroke

Hmmmmm, heads off to garage to check if it is adjustable, cool balls here we come

Fleet would be a good place for me too

My vert came with this fitted, but its not adjustable, kind of aims at my knees, so doesnt cool either of the hot bits

hmmmmm

so this.... http://www.carsensor.net/usedcar/detail/CU3700928534/index.html?TRCD=200002 am I right they want about £1.5 million for it?

Ooooooh 99 manual turbo slicktop :)

as a total guess, how about the electric boot release or roof release? theyre in the boot

Oooh, would love to know how much

We did it with a group of lightly modified zeds, no problems apart from being overtaken a lot The ring is corner after corner and very up and down compared to a uk track, blind summits leading straight into sharp corners etc and a lot of corners to remember. After 2 or 3 laps your just starting to remember some of it and regular users will always be faster, some of the porches and gtrs were so much faster than us. Because it is only open to the public certain days it can get very busy, also it tends to shut a lot due to crashes and long queues can build when shut. You can buy tickets for 1 lap or 4 laps There is an on / off point half way round but only tickets bought at that point are valid there Sometimes they en the way on to the adjacent track so you can get a lap ion that too

When i fitted a boss to replace my airbag wheel, it didnt fit. Once the wheel comes off you are left with yellow sticker on a unit with a coil of ribbon cable inside. Clamping the boss to this stopped the wheel self centreing. I bodged it by removing the unit at which point the boss fitted fine, but i had no horn cable to the wheel, so fitted a horn switch on the dash. I know other people had no problem, so presumably there are different types

I'm not going to make it. Having been awake most of the night and woken feelin like a bag of arse, the last thing i need today is 10 hours in a cold field ( and a different part of the field to everyone else) and 4 hours driving. Also unless i felt a lot better i wouldnt want to track. Really gutted, having missed it for the last 3 years because of work i was really looking forward to it and spent ages yesterday getting me and the car ready So if anyone who is going wants my track time....... i'm going back to bed

My passenger prefers the manual seat. The electric one doesnt adjust the back as upright as she likes, but the manual one does. Its possible ( quite likely) that she is non standard - - - Updated - - - Also my amp fits under a manual seat, but didnt under the electric

So does anyone know what time the track time is? Is it still the case that you can get your car in to do track time without a club stand pass? Considering still going, parking in the public car park, buying on the door, getting my track ticket, then trying to get the car in. However i,m worried that the public entrance isnt till 9.30 so i may not have time to do all that

Ah, i take it without the stand pass i cant get in to collect the track time

Should i have got my ticket by now?

So is it definitely postponed? Managed to get the day off work, will go off roading instead if it not happening. Need to get the correct vehicle prepared :)

Well, i waved at a number of bus drivers today, they all just looked confused

I'll be in eastbourne tommorow in my blue zed . See if anyone spots me :)

Mot today Now looking for a replacement drivers side cat Looking on ebay there are a lot of people selling new ones for around £130, however they all say .. All European (EU) cars (outside of the UK) must be fitted with a Type Approved catalyst, and all UK cars registered after March 2001(Y Reg) require a Type Approved catalyst.For this reason we will need your vehicle registration number before we can process any orders for catalytic converters. If we don't have your VRM we will have to cancel this order. Is this some sort of scam? Why do i have to give my registration to buy a cat? Surely if their product is legal then it doesnt matter what car i fit it too?

There is no specific bulb blown sensor in the sense that there is no extra circuits or control boxes. the (fairly standard) design of the flasher unit means that when the load drop ( blown bulb) if flashes faster