John Dixon

Not too sure if the one you've bought is the same as the one I have, so I wouldn't like to say. The one I have certainly is. I can pull the maps off it for a look if you want.

Anyone :confused:

For what it's worth, my SWB TT weighed 1530kg with a full tank of fuel and me in the driver's seat.

I've got a JUN 555 code. Looks OK to use on optimax. Less timing than some other tunes and fuelling not altered much.

For 7 grade, try ZFR7F-11 (NGK) gapped to 0.8mm. Run these in mine with no problems at all, and they're less than £2 each. Seem to last about 5k miles, but then again, I found the plats only did about 10k before they started to miss at top revs.

I'm sure I'd arranged with someone to do a chip on Sunday, but I emptied my PM box and now can't remember who it was :rolleyes: Can you drop me a line!

I'd have to disagree, that's much bigger than a stock one. And it's got ally end tanks.

Either do the socket thing, or if that dosen't work, put a normal nut on top of the locking one then weld around the inside. After you've done that you can get them off with a normal socket.

No problem Justin, drop me a line. Agree though, tickover with 555's can be v. good.

The yanks reckon 555's are good for 500RWHP, so probably not too much point going bigger unless you want to build a dragster. With bigger injectors idle control and efficiency get worse, so there's no point going for 720's really. For your mods, the stock are fine.

Set up my Profec to measure MAF volatge, so I can try to get estimates for TP expansion on mapping. Problem is, mine seems to run around 1.1v at idle and I'm sure I read somewhere the spec was ~0.5v! Anyone enlighten me? I'll double check it through the week with a voltmeter, but there's no reason to assume it's not accurate.

Err, oops just read the bit about having the wastegates disconnected!! Probably is a boost leak then.

You never will hold 1 bar to the redline if that's what you're trying to do. I'd start over with the controller setup, it sounds like the gain is too high (erratic response in low gears). To start, set the start boost very low (about 5 psi) and make sure all the RPM offset points are at 0. Next, set the gain to about 7 and sp to around 70 (maybe less, depends on what wastegates you have). Do a flat run in 4th up to about 6.5k and record the run, logging boost and rpm. Play it back and see what peak value you get and how the response looks where it starts to control. Play with the gain until you get a nice approach to whatever boost that SP will produce. Keep doing runs until it looks good. It'll never be perfectly flat, but you shouldn't FEEL it noticably surge up/down. Now adjust the set until you get the boost value you want (best to set the peak monitor to record constant rather than peak) and set start boost about 3psi below the peak value - that should give very good spoolup. Once you've got that then start adjusting the RPM offset points where the boost starts to drop away, you should be able to pull some back.

See post mentioned above. Essentially the easiest way to do it is short the level sensor on the fluid resevoir.

I wrote about this a while back after I disabled mine, search for HICAS.

While you're in there, you might as well remove all the HICAS gubbins too. Apparently saves about 30kg if you remove all the pipes as well. Obviously you need to put an eliminator on the back as well!

Chris, I've got that (I think) bring it anyway, and we'll see if it's different, cheers. I'll try to scan the Jap ones and see if I can get them translated.

Or the ones off a Koenigsegg - probably even harder to find :mad:

Anyone got a set of english instructions for the Profec E01 external signal harness. Or even tell me which colours are which signal? Cheers

It's probably easier for you to look than me!! Saying that, I doubt it, I'd think they'd have been cleaned before being put back on. Can't imagine it causing that much hassle anyway.

Wht not. More chance of finding it then :D

I wasn't at the SE one but will be at Thor. Trying to get a dual intake made up before then to try, but taking a while to get the elbows :mad: I'd guess 330-350 flywheel

It's reading ~0.4v at idle, but it's difficult to tell if it's linear with a digital meter.

PFR6B-11B are the best for a standard TT.

Looked at another members car today to try to sort a few things out for him. Basically it's running OK now apart from 2 things: 1) It cuts off when dropping to idle from high(ish) revs. Suspect a boost leak or problem with AAC etc. Anyone had similar problem and fixed it? No obvious vac leaks but I think that's the most obvious one. Pulling off the AAC connector has little/no effect on idle so that could be a possibility. Does it when stationary too, so not PCV's 2) Won't boost past 16psi on SE stage II hybrids, even tried setting the duty cycle to 100% for a burst! Again, looks like a boost leak to me, but can't hear anything Just wondering if anyone has ahy thoughts to help him out. I've suggested get one of those pressurising boost leak detectors and get it on a consult to chack out the AAC operation. Cheers