John Dixon

The ECU uses the detonation sensor to detect if the engine is suffering from detonation due to overboost / lean running / crap fuel etc. It does a few things: Puts the system in safety boost (if the stock solenoids are still connected). Sets the ECU to use different fuel/timing maps (presuming the code you run has them - some tuners don't) Basically if you have an aftermarket boost controller and JWT chip then you'll probably not notice a difference. If you don't you'll be running down on power.

No stains, thankfully the windows open pretty quick. Was driving properly hard though, so hope she won't do it too often! Might start keeping a bin bag in there just incase :rofl:

Just took my girlfriend out for a run over some back roads. Seemed to be enjoying it right up to the point it made her sick :x: :eek: Dry roads again is great though!

Courtesy parts in the US do one for $195. Just got one, really well made. IF you get an NA steering pump too you can remove all the hydraulics as well. Shouldn't affect the steering feel - having said that it will feel odd if you don't have the speed sensor signal connected up - the assistance is speed related.

Pulling the fuse only works on the electronic 94+ or whatever it was. On hydraulic you loose the PAS too! To disable it short the fluid level sensor or disconnet the sensor on the steering wheel.

Just buy an eliminator bar and remove it it's probably easier. If you don't want to do that, I'd imagine it's the speed sensor signal you're missing.

Save yourself a fortune and fit ZFR7F-11. Work fine. It's the nearest you can get projection wise to PFR6B-11B that I've found. Just have to change them a bit more often, but mine have done 5,000 miles so far and still going strong.

Andy, only problem I can think of is that the cables joining the screen to the centre unit are a bit flimsy so you might have a job getting them through the rubber tube thing between the door and the body. Also, the cable to the remote is quite short so you'll have to mount it on the door too. The centre unit will then need to be in the RHS of the car and the cables to the ECU ran across. Or you could cut/shut all the looms and ignore me totally :D

Paul, was it you that said you might be interested in my SWB exhaust? Cheers

Lol, you're absolutely right. TBH, I keep mine between 4-7 all the time when I'm driving hard, but with big blowers you still get lag between shifts or when you put the gas back on when you've lifted. It's OK if you want a straight line dragster, but for typical hard A road driving, you need the tractability you can't have with big tubs.

Red Import H reg heading into kiddy last night about 5pm, anyone on here? I wasn't in mine though.

I've beaten an XKR before, but it was quick. Useless on bends though - or may just have been to old bloke driving it !

To be honest Mark, I'd just do away with them. You shouldn't really have any crap in the system anyway, and a bit of oil shouldn't harm the solenoids. If you want to keep them try somewhere like farnell that do pneumatic stuff, should be pretty easy to get.

Seems way too high TBH. 12% + 10bhp for RWD is supposed to be a good estimation, but even that's rubbish as the losses vary through the range. You need to measure coast down losses to get it right. Think I've still got a chart from my old car showing CDL, I'll try and dig it out.

No, you can drive off. It actually reboots when you start the engine as the starter drops the voltage in the system enough to kill it again.

Sorry to hear it mate. You were a good friend to him though I'm sure it was appreciated.

As far as I know it was crashed then dismantled :cry: Can always make another one though :)

True, it did sound lovely at the RR day NA cars always do. Really miss that crazy howl I used to get when I was thrashing the 205 :(

I doubt you'll get it off. It looks like epoxy potting compound, don't think there's any chance you'll be able to remove it without damaging the ECU. If you do want to change, buy a 2nd hand ECU (AndyZ) then socket that one.

Depends what was in it really. Used to run a 230bhp one that would waste a stock Z easily.

I don't think you'll ever get induction noise from a zed. You've got the turbos, intercoolers and about 6 miles of plumbing in the inlet tract to damp it :cry:

Nigel, I looked at this when I was working on Vinz's car and I'm sure the profec won't fit - it's a pretty big screen.

No regrets with it at all. One slight annoyance is that it does take about 15s to boot up, but never really a hassle as far as I'm concerned. I know the dash mount isn't ideal. That sort of thing dosen't bother me much though.

Mines always cover the chip in goo to stop it being swapped / pulled for analysis. Real PITA!