John Dixon

I'd still look out for a set of UK clocks though as the converter runis the steering feel - basically it overassists the steering, feels like you're driving on ice all the time.

It was the speed limiter!

Single = fuel temp sensor Dual = injector

Perhaps you're bending it too tightly or it's the wrong diameter ?

Replace it with silicone line. This line is VERY important as it is the one that controls the fuel pressure! You can safely remove the PVPR system if you want by connecting the FPR vacuum line straight to the side of the plenum where the other line goes then junking the solenoid and surge tank (in the wing).

Don't think so. You're right though, the price is really special! You could just use instant gasket ...

If you don't have the screw, it's easier to just bend the stop tab on the throttle cam instead, you can always put it back then if it makes things worse!

Yeah, you'd think so as the crank is shorter too. TBH, loads of people in the states seem to run these, you've just got to decide if it's worth the risk. The other thing to bear in mind is it's not mass reduction that has the effect, but mass * r^2, so if the diameter is relatively small (like a pulley) it has much less effect than if it's big like the flywheel.

From my understanding, the balance isn't the issue, its to do with needing the mass to intefere with the natural harmonics of the crank, caused by flex under rotation. I didn't really understand the explination the guy gave me at the time, but apparently at the flywheel end, the same is not true as the drive to the box etc. gives a similar effect

I'd be a bit concerned by that harshness to be honest. The damper is there to do just that - damp harmonics on the crank. On some engines (alfa 6's for example) the crank will actually break if you remove much weight!

Nigel, with a properly mapped ECU, there is no need for a fuel controller, they're pretty crude anyway. You'll be running rich at high load without boost jets, as the ECU aims for very rich fuel mixtures (~10:1) - at high boost it can't hit this, so will run leaner (maybe ~11.5) but at low boost, it can so it'll run rich.

The bit about the AFR dipping to 12.1:1 at high loads. 12.1 is marginal and most Z's should really be ~11.5. Aftermarket maps usually ~11.2-10 (theoretical)

We did Leighs at the weekend and used a dremmel type small drill with a small carbide cutting tool to clean them up. Works a treat. Agree with Chris, its best to replace the plugs, but you'll still need to clean the pins on the injectors anyway.

Boost leak detector and conZult are the next step. Boost dosen't spike, anyway, I'm running around 10 psi at the minute :(

Lol, you want to try working on it. Get dirty looks if you leave fingerprints :rofl:

Err, I wouldn't rev that far on a stock engine if I were you, especially with stock injectors!! Is it an auto? I have seen some jap maps with limits efectively removed (set to 11,500rpm). I guess they think if it's all loaded up on a bend or you've got a good drift going you don't want the cut. I'd stick to ~7.2-7.3k rpm to be safe.

Getting a loan of a conZult from a generous member, so power bal test should show it up. Bit better than just trying to listen. My money's on No 6!!

Spent another day looking at this today! Getting steadily worse :mad: Stuff done previously: FPR replaced and fuel pressure checked - OK EGR system disabled and valve checked for sticking - OK MAF replaced - No difference PVPR system removed to simplify system. Base timing chacked - OK New 7 range plugs - No difference. New tank of optimax - No difference. Started today by checking the injector resistances at the ECU (between pin 58 and relevant pin 1XX for each injector). Spec 10-14ohms at the injector. On Leigh's car all were ~14ohm except no 6 - 15.2 ohms. Cleaned connectors on 1,2,3,6 with dremmel and all dropped to ~12.5 ohms. All connectors at battery voltage on +ve pins. Now better on Leighs, det only at v. high revs - maybe some milage in cleaning 4 & 5 but they're under the fuel pipes so left for another day. Suspect injectors just maxxing out on this one. On mine, all at 11.2 - 11.6 ohms, so electrically look OK. Think now it's either big air leak or a dodgy (fouled) injector. For info, det is now at ~4500rpm, 10Psi even with JWT chip! Next things to try: Got PCV hoses coming incase any are split. Check for air leaks with pressurise manifold method. Do power balance test on consult to see if it's cylinder specific. Any other ideas ?! Really getting annoying now!

Going to spend a day on it tomorrow (with a fresh tank of Optimax). Hopefully will get somewhere!

Found with the plats, if you hit the limiter, then they would foul up and the car would splutter a bit until they cleared again. Have you had a trader confuse us yet, I have. I think you nearly got a spare Profec E01 at one point :rofl:

If it's not misfiring or soaking at the rev limit then they're probably OK.

Yeah, I've built one. Be beta testing the software soon :D Eric has done a version of conZult s/w to use with the DIY h/w too, haven't got a price yet though.

The -11B does have a much more extened shell, in fact the ceramic is almost completely covered, the overall length is also a little longer. I'll go have a look at a -11C, ZFR and EIX as I have one of all these lying around for comparison. Other thing to remember is that the PFR6B-11X is not available in a 7 heat range which is really what you should be running in a tuned Z. The -11B is a colder plug for the US because their stock one is PFR5B-11B.

I wish .... Got det problems on mine at the minute too! Get the fuel pressure and timing checked out firstly. It might even just be a crap tank of fuel.

If the idle is all over the place, it sounds more like an air leak or passing EGR valve. To test the EGR, pull the vacuum line to it off the solenoid and suck on it - if the revs don't drop then it's stuck!