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Gonzo12c

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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by Gonzo12c

  1. is this the panel you used? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-x6-EL-Panel-Sheet-Pad-Back-Light-Display-Backlight-B_W0QQitemZ270469028357QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ef935da05&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
  2. Hey folks sorry to start another thread on aston martin brakes but seen a set of aston martin db7 brembo calipers going and wondered if these can fit the zed. Ive seen a few posts on the vanquish calipers and DB9 but didnt know wether the DB7 ones will fit as well. Would mounting brackets need to be made and i presume it is 355mm discs i would need cheers Marty
  3. Anyone else undertaking work on their zed today. Im changing my left turbo after finally sorting the oil starvation to thta side. Also got my turbo timer to wire in and gonna see how my new 19" look cant fit them yet as got 2 tyres coming from Dan next week. Good times Marty
  4. Im in the British army and i train new recruits so alot of shouting every day. Im a mechanic by trade which helps out alot as well especially with the problems ive been having with my zed.
  5. Hi folks im thinking of switching to a smoothed healight panel rather than the one currently fitted. Ive seen a few in the rides section and i think it just looks very tidy what is other peoples views on what they have? http://s933.photobucket.com/albums/ad179/sxylado2/?action=view&current=IMG00016-20091006-1522.jpg Marty
  6. Yes you can get the left hand turbo off with the engine in and by just removing the battery. Some people lift the engine out as this can be done quickly with practice. I am doing my left hand turbo at the moment and i am doing it with the engine left in as i dont have access to a crane. As soon as you remove the battery you have acess to the top and by remving the downpipe you can get to the turbo from the bottom. To remove you have oil return pipe underneath 2 bolts oil feed remove where the oil pressure sender is 2 coolant pipes just remove at the rubber hose joins o2 sensor electrical connector will be in behind the plenum somewhere exhaust downpipe 2 bolts and 2 nuts you can get 2 from top and 2 from bottom 2 intake pipes i removed the lower one by undoing the clip and took the turbo off with it still attached and the upper metal hard pipe there is 3 bolts that mount it on the side of the compressor that i removed and this can be withdrawn fully once the front intake pipes are off plus the small bolt that holds this metal pipe to the side of the engine. Finally 4 nuts that mounts the turbo to the manifold that you can get with some fiddling around from the top. All in its a fiddly job but can be done quite easily for those that dont have access to a crane . I dont think ive forgotten anything Marty
  7. Ive been in contact with a few ebay breakers after seeing this and got a few offers for chrome handles now off of mavericks and terranos mostly around the £20 mark what an excellent cheap mod ill be getting some soon :) Marty
  8. I was thanks shame ive put my engine back in now :( Marty
  9. I lifted my engine out on the crane set to 250kg for the reach and had no problems but that is only the safe working load so maybe was lifting a little more :)
  10. ive got the 2nd rad and very pleased with it had no problems at all :)
  11. As above i drove back to have a look is very nice http://s933.photobucket.com/albums/ad179/sxylado2/?action=view&current=IMG00039-20090925-1733.jpg Marty
  12. Millers oil is always a favorite thats what i got recommended before and they do mineral oil have a look at their website http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_MOTORSPORT.htm Marty
  13. i put my harness through the bonnet cable grommet. I took my power supply off of the stereo as well used ignition pos think its the blue wire and all my settings i took off of this site as well you will have to start low and then just build it up slowly and watch your peak boost that the BC will record http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/blitz/blitz.htm
  14. factory ones are in the middle at either side of the engine below the plenum you will see the electrical connector coming off them should be held in by 2 screws and a bracket. I have put my blitz single solenoid up behind the brake master cylinder on the right there is 2 bolts there and i used one to mount the solenoid. This makes it easy to get lots of reach on the harness in the drivers area as well. Marty
  15. seemed pretty easy when i took my engine out as soon as you get it off the mounts you have some play to pull it forward and get to the electrical connections so shouldnt be hard Marty
  16. when i lifted mine the other week i split the box and engine and used 2 endless slings that i got through the exhaust manifolds on either side worked for me i think it was 4m slings as well so had to put a couple of knots in
  17. mine is a different unit and i have single solenoid so had to do more routing on the hoses i think then you might be able to get away with 2m you will have to see
  18. oh thats the twin solenoid you wont need as many tee pieces then i think that link i sent will clear it up for you
  19. had a look today ive used about 4m of hose 2 tee pieces and 2 straight connectors all 8mm. I have the single solenoid and have located it next to the brake master cylinder so you need 4m of hose to get it routed up to there makes it easy to get the cable through to the dash area though and ive put my unit in where the clock is just removed the clock and did a little widening and fits fine.
  20. It took me about 3 or 4 metres of hose to route from each pipe to boost solenoids and hard intake pipe too. Also needed 2 tees i think and 2 straight connectors to connect to the existing hoses then all the usual jubilee clips to go with it. it was 8mm tees i used and pipe to match just needed smaller hose for the single blitz solenoid as 8mm is a bit big for it. Ill have a look in the light tomorrow if you want and check mine Marty
  21. oh all my tee pieces and stuff and tubing i got off ebay seller shop silicone_hose_world very good happy with it and good delivery
  22. http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/blitz/blitz.htm There you go mate thats what i used to install mine :) Marty
  23. Hi folks ive got myself a type 1 HKS turbo timer and just wanted to confirm what wires i need to link into in the dash. Ive had a look at the wiring diagrams and for the turbo timer i need RPM signal, Speed signal, Parking brake switch. On page 65 in the manual in the electrical section i think the wires i need are 22, 16 and 2 can anyone confirm this that has fitted these before. I have the Z32 harness from HKS so the power wires arent a problem Cheers http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi Marty
  24. Hi i need some advise as i have just replaced both my turbos as the bearings on the left one had collasped. Got the engine back in and running now and started getting noise from the left hand one again. Been running for only a day to clear out all the crap in the system and then just started getting the grinding noise on the left side. Just had the downpipe off and same problem again the bearings are collasping and this was a good recon turbo with no freeplay when fitted. Im thinking there must be a problem with oil feed to that side but not sure where to start. Ive got one more turbo left which was the good one off the right side and need to sort it this time. I had 30 psi oil pressure before it started doing this again just looking at the oil feed it goes through the oil pressure switch i believe and into the sump any ideas??? Thanks Marty
  25. ive got twin HKS inducction works for me :)

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