greg

happy birthday bud

there was tumbleweed rolling through weston until we turned up :x: :wack: :dance:

LMAO S14A beats TT SUPRA :bow: :smw: :x: cheers paul

you wont see the colour codes on the bearing after 15years, but as said you can add the number on the counterweight and correspond it with the rod which is stamped on the cap. example crank+rod= crank 121301 rod 111011 use 232312

coming out now! weston drag race along boulavard :dance: :wack:

i know of a 200 that needs a tranny swap, aswell as some lightweight pullies, rad hoses, full brake kit! you bored! :wack:

il race ya :dance:

you can remove the wastgate solenoids, but you will need an electronic boost controller. Not a real problem, however pointless, as when you fit a electronic controller you disconect the solenoids anyway, and just bypassing, so leave them there, unless you wish to save 2lb in weight.

here here, exactly as i would of said it :)

drink some baileys then lol

well its chrismas so you never now, just wear your poloneck and no one would know. :wack: on the subject merry christmas all :duffer: even to funkispunk :)

check the FAQ section for any info needed, TBH it would take hours to explain, so worth a look :duffer: there is on the market which one of are traders sells here known as consult, can be purchased from danny@ DTA (free plug dan :) ) this simply plugs from port on car to laptop. using the consult software you can read error codes from the ECU check reading's from all electrical sensors, realtime temps/base timing etc etc, and can clear error codes, so will certainly help pinpoint some problems secondly £20 of your hard earned to subscribe here will be all you need, as alot of people will bend over backwards to help out, fook my back is acheing :rolleyes: :wack: cheers greg

redline is not a cure, its a thick heavy oil which will only work in the short time, its called masking a problem, your transmission needs rebuilding, most probably input bearings :( also check your 2 gators under the gearstick, if there split which most of them are, you will get tunnel noises from the road entering the cabin, and sounds like whining :) cheers greg

il keep my wallet and instead :xxx: theres not a fookin hope in hell im waiting for blockbuster to send me a replacment membership card again :wack:

it wont be lots lighter, but it will be slightly, no hicas unit or arms, so probably around 20kg saving

have a nice xmas trevor :duffer: all the best

bargain, thats the fun with import cars, your never 100% sure whats been done, in most cases though the parts are 10years old and nomally worn, so can be more of a hassle than anything, becasue there generally screwed nice find :)

they look the same as the 18" rx-8 wheels, do a search on ebay you will find them for around £350 with tyres, similar style half the price, and with a couple of small spacers upfront they will bolt straight on :)

happy xmas dooooooode and all the rest of you misfits :wack: :)

nice one mate, i drove 450 mile round trip for mine 2 1/2 years ago, never regreted it, and miss it massivly :( nice purchase, have a good xmas, and drive carefully :) regards greg

christmas shopping is painful, im friggin knackered :wack:

:rolleyes:

:tongue: love you si... like a brother i never wanted :wack:

so your footwell on both driverside and passenger side are dry? it will either be the above, an airlock is common on the 2 hoses going in to the firewall for inlet and return from the H.M give them a squeeze. in order.. start car turn temp to max, remove radiator cap, get car up to temp remove bleed screw run car at around 3k rpm also may help to squeeze the rear hoses to the matrix top up as required, make sure no more air bubbles are exiting the bleed screw replace screw check temprature inside. if that dont help, then you need to check... leaks, even a small leak is letting air in to the systym, thus causing permanant airlocks failing thermostat if not opening then water not circulating, worth checking last

i knew that :wack: :x: