greg

:rofl: sealed with oil rather than oil sealed :smash:

452s on my old z had f1s and apart from beter tyre wear they grip well in all conditions

had a go at one when practically standard no differance at one bar and some tweeks iv left one behind down the m5 which i own as it runs through my garden LMAO

serviced a tensioner oh dear! in other words they put it in a vice and closed it to the correct gap :wack:

agreed :smash:

i remember pj ran his car way past recomended injector duty cycles @17psi and made 360fwhp off the top of my head best result iv seen on stock turbos with basic mods is 380 warm day though so pehaps room for more.

id pay in excess on 5k for a good 96 rocking horse shit springs to mind besides last time i drove 95/96 TT i fell in love with the z32 all over again felt tight like! "well i better not say :p

even better with 2 turbo's attached gaz the adrenalin is mental+ :tongue: ;)

Cant beat a blast when its been a while always use to bring a smile to my face, when i had mine it was a weekend toy. Like a big kid again. :p nice one

precisly if you dont get it done its false economy may aswell replace the potentially corroded small metal inlet pipes on the heads and replace the x2 hoses new thermostat wouldnt go a miss either. whilst your there and all that :duffer:

dave get the fookin kit ordered stop dillying ;)

just of out in the garden for a smoke

rps sport is fookin lovely and the only clutch id use in a mildy tuned 300 ;) usable/trackable/longetivity

will agree with danny paddle clutch's are ****ing aweful in traffic and lifespan is generally between 4-10k miles LOL due to the friction surface being thin compared to an organic one you will find everytime you lift your foot cluth judder is ominant, but once mastered its ok bit like marmite love it on HATE it secondly make sure your flywheel is 100% otherwise any distortion will kill the thin plates on a paddle in 100s miles not thousands greg

not always a general garages fault, as i dont think part suppliers do an aftermarket version of the cambelt tensioner (nissan oem only)

you can remove valve covers without the need for cambelt removal! things to change whilst your there if not replaced recently new intake manifold gasket pcv valves and 5 hoses (silly not to) new sealant to half moons at back of heads to rocker cover new bead of sealeant to both exhaust covers check seal on both intake covers plenum bypass, (if your not sure) just check and replace any suspect hoses and make sure there sealing well thats it tips on refitting intake hoses to throttles, heat up on top of a radiator so they become soft its such a nightmare trying to refit these when there brittle/cracked and stiff :wack: spray as fine mist of wd-40 on the inner rim off the hoses so they slip over the throttles another vital is to make sure the intake gasket is 100% straight when you bolt down plenum, if its not you will notice your car sounding like a tractor! in the event it happens you may find you will thow the 12mm ratchet at the dogs head :smash: i normally put a very small dab of s.glue on each corner of the gasket this will prevent the gasket to move and help align the bolts through the plenum greg

happy birthday jimbo have a good day

:duffer:

look forward to running folks! all the best greg

cool ;)

you can remove passenger side turbo with to much hassle, fiddy removing the manifold-turbo nuts, and disconecting the water feeds. if it was an NA you can do the job in less than an hour :hurl: you will then need the EGR cracking off, or cut off and welded up. so EGR is disabled, you would then need both feeds to plenum sorting out at sometime, but as long as the vac feed to the EGR is blanked off it should disable it. once turbo is out the way and EGR removed you can then remove manifold and move out the way expect a couple of days work for yourself, a competent garage specialist allow a days labour if all goes to plan. £400-£500 max (estimate) specialist maybe a bit less as they know the z inside out. you will require a new gasket, and also check the studs dont come out off the head (very common) keep a couple spare incase you may aswell shop for new copper washers for water/oil feeds new turbo-fanimold gasket fanifold to head gasket downpipe gasket ^^always best to renew above. greg

not bad ta G back working as a locksmith and alarm/access control/ so busy at the mo, lots of contract work. hows you matey?

if you want good economy fit a diesel engine LMAO seems popular :p

craig is ryans brother, and chris IIRC is someone ryan took on after i left, just to add :)

unless you DIY have you had it properly diagnosed as leaking manifold between head? what side is it on? have you check tightness of bolts to manifold? then i could give you an idea