greg

i dont see the harm in baby on board, has fook all to do with "i have a kid so fook you" :rolleyes: its more a polite way of saying you tailgate me and risk harm to my child i will get out and bat your fookin doors in :mad: babe on board etc etc, i see si's point of view, most of them are ugly as fookin sin :smash: LMAO

i have halogen, looks the mutts, almost instant heat! pros quick heat looks good :) cons pain to clean at times stays hot afterwards for a while (small children not a good idea) although a warning light stays on until it cools if you break it its v.expensive i love ours though

also if you have spark/fuel/compression there not a lot else to go wrong only thing worth checking maybe a huge boost/air leak which will stop the car from starting.

with the s shaped hose not connected you have a leak, however car should still attemp to fire! i presume you have put the hose on as its simple enough(silicone tubing) does the car attemp to start or even fart or does it just turn over with no attemp to fire? again whys the earth not connected, again simple black wire passes through gearbox cross member bolt-chassis, your answering your own questions, you do an engine refit, but not refit the exhaust/earth/hoses :wack: not being rude but when the engine was reconected have all the hoses been put on right.

due to the lack of remove around the engine, heat is a concern especially after 15years+ the routing of the water feeds carry under the plenum to aid cooling, in the UK its not so important to have this due to temps compared to japan/australia/us and more importantly the feeds carry to the turbo's what can happen is un-suspected water leaks (pinholes in the aged hoses which left unattended could cause overheating. plenum bypass re routes the coolant feeds so the pass directly from the main water pipes which lead to the heater matrix and splice off direct to the both turbos, so in turn any leaks dwn the line are easier to notice/remedy. greg

right so we have a constant flow of fuel coming out at a reasonable pressure? we have spark on every cylinder? you say there is no spark until you let go off the key? have you tried a working ptu as a try out? have you removed all the plugs and cleaned them? you need to determine why your spark is intermitant? is the cambelt on right? what cylinder compression did you have on each cylinder when you did a test? its obvious to me your spark is not timed without a spark hows the car going to start.

they dont allow offers on the SXOC either, not digging at paul, just think its a better idea :duffer:

no bud, good to have connected though, but i doubt very much it will cause the non starting issue

550hp on t25's LMAO

£75? Lmao

was it in for a transplant at the hospital! LMAO

happy b.day mike all the best! ;)

id imagin its because there going for mondeo money, so anyone can afford one lol

you can leave the hose on at the bottom and leave the radiator full of water, bit tricky getting it past the viscous fan but not that bad, you could get at lower shroud from top, try putting it back on though! greg

have you carried out a compression check after the engine went back in?

to seperate the prop, undo all 4 bolts with handbrake on for ease so it dont move around. mark with tipex on both joints before you split, then finally undo the 2 17mm bolts, making sure when you refit the spacer washers go back on above the bracket otherwise you prop will turn like a bananna you dont need to remove brackets, there are 2 14mm bolts to each bracket going through bellhousing, once these are removed you can split the box if you have an auto you will need to remove one of these brackets to gain acsess to the torque convertor bolts greg

he did say he seems to get a spark as he lets go of the key, but admitadly if timing is out a bit car should still start, unless valves are bouncing :wack:

iv used there stuff before and have always been impressed TBH

or drive down mine and il do it!

real easy bud, no need to remove viscous fan at all! remove radiator brackets x2 If NA you may find it easier to remove both intake feeds to throttle bodies, mark each vaccum feed and pull off breather hoses. remove radiator cap when cool remove top hose and small overflow tube (NA) with car up small amount remove undertray if present (doubtful) remove lower u clamp 1 10mm bolt (may not be there) slacken lower jubilee clip may be the 10mm oem oe might just be an aftermarket flathead screw collect coolant in tray, move clear of yourself back up top remove the other end of the hose from the inlet pipe and move out of the way. unclip lower shround (very easy witha torch look directly at 6 oclock there is a push up clip, simialr to a childrens lunchbox (only way i could describe it lol) pull down with a gentle tug then it will be free if automatic remove both lines from metal feed pipes, and fit a suitable bolt in each hose so it dont leak atf all over your drive finally lift up from top of car and it will come out, real easy when you know how not sure what the fook that FAQ you had above about removing intercooler ducts LOL maybe that was about oil cooler for engine who knows!

so your not getting a spark then :smash: , sounds odd to me, are the ground connections connected at the back of the engine? this shouldnt cause this issue but its related to the ptu in any case i would check connections at PTU or swap over a known good one, but firstly dont just check for spark on one cylinder check all of them with a decent spark plug and known working coil pack, if the same! could well be a timing issue. Check the simple things first.

you said you hecked for spark and there is no spark when you turned the key? except when you let go> so does it know spark as soon as you turn the key.

i wouldnt hold your breath as ryans not there, so if it was a while ago all they could do is a faithful reciept still wont gaurantee it was done, unless you took it there yourself and know it was.

so you have no spark when turning over but when you let go it sparks (confused) id say your PTU has failed more than likely have you checked you have fuel flowing to the rail? simply remove the hose from the fuel filter engine side and connect a hose to the filter and use a bottle to collect whilst someone turns the engine over. ptu can be swapped with someone local, to be honest if you rebuild an engine you should be able to check for simple things like spark/fuel/compression.(meant in the nicest possible way).

never knew that, always fitted one type genuine OEM ones and never thought for one min they charged more for one than the other? odd