greg

its normally where the car has been out of use for a while give it while and should return to its normal state,other than that possibly the clutch booster but i rekon its just cos you have been used to a corsa for so long,you forgot what a real clutch is like :D

damn you get all the good jobs :rofl:

looks good

no probs ;)

case ajourned :D knock knock until friday the 11th

about fookin time :D enjoy it mate

balls on a chick is one thing but if shim flops out the blue vein **** stick im running :rofl:

love the pic of that mario the plumber :rofl: neil cut down on the class As there not doing you anygood FFS :rofl:

you were guilty of a wasted journey dear jim lad on the m5 at that time aproxamitly so what do you have to say for yourself in a court of law :rofl:

holding your brakes whilst booting an auto will kill your gearbox very quick id do it :rofl: but just to let you know ;)

me like alot

hart wheels are the mutts but to expensive as are azev IMO

conversion chart 0.6bar= stock 9psi 0.4bar=6psi PSI Kg/cm Bar 5 0.35 0.34 6 0.42 0.41 7 0.49 0.48 8 0.56 0.55 9 0.63 0.62 10 0.70 0.69 11 0.77 0.76 12 0.84 0.83 13 0.91 0.90 14 0.98 0.97 15 1.05 1.03 16 1.13 1.10 17 1.20 1.17 18 1.27 1.24 19 1.34 1.31 20 1.41 1.38

nah the fuel controller wont effect boost,if this is to be setup you need to idealy be on a rolling road to set up the afc im bit miffed,depending where you are i could look over it for you and maybe set it up,i work at z-tech but dependent where you are in the country it may be a bit far,based in wiltshire nr swindon heres an aritcle on the blitz controller install,but same principal read carefully and see if that helps http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/blitz/blitz.htm greg

looking good there leigh ;)

do you mean the bolt that passes through the shifter bushes themselfs then you will need a 10mm spanner on one end and a 10mm on the other end! use a 1/4" drive ratchet as there small and fit in awkward places better they might even be 12mm bolts cant remember,ehh if you round the bolt off,then you can always drop the gearbox much easier from underneath :rofl:

ok as you have an aftermarket controller the wastegate solenoid plugs should be dissconected both sides if the hoses are blanked off then this is because instead of using bleed/boost jets to control boost! the controller itself is controlling the boost you should have a setup similar to this:hose coming of wastegate of either turbo which normally will go to the intake hoses at the front but instead are teed of and connected to boost controller solenoid then 2 hoses interlinked to the intake pipes 0.4bar boost is safety boost equvalant to roughly 6psi either only 1 hose is conected giving the efficiancy of 1 turbo or if the solenoid plugs have been reconected then your in safety boost but if your getting code 55 then id say the pipework has been rigged up in-corectly if i find a diagram then il put it up or put the car back to stock 9psi by routing the hoses coming of the wastegates back to the intake metal pipes at the front,and reconecting the wastegate solenoid plugs either side,it is possible the controller has packed up/or miss fitted

yep your right vin,i use to use my z for weekends and the odd weekday blast and when you leave it a few days you apreciate how quick plesurable it is to drive,shame i dont get that feeling anymore :( il be back :D

exactly :D

karls king turk seed inplanter im in that club to got 2 kids and more coming i expect :o

i got bull and won the home dj kit PMSL fookin crap

Its the same as a TT bud ecept you only have 2 intake pipes instead of having intercooler pipes,and the radiator is the differant but majority of pipework is the same jack up car place on axle stands remove radiator brackets which secures the radiator on an NA remove lower undertray if it is still present hold tray underneath and drain coolant/fluid remove lower fan shroud which just unclips! remove upper hose to radiator 2x10mm bolts and undo the long hose which is attached to the top alloy pipe remove overflow pipe from centre of rad remove both intake pipes to throttle bodies 4 jubilee clips lift out radiator remove viscous fan 4x10mm bolts or 4x10mm nuts if you remove from pulley wheel on water pump dependent on which way you prefer now look at bottom alloy pipe remove x2 12mm nuts and 1 allen bolt using a long reach allen key and a 1/4"drive extension bar for ease to undo bolt now its ready to come off!using a rubber mallet tap metal pipe until it loosens remove alloy pipe now with tray still underneath twist thermostat to the right and it will just come out! replace with new thermostat making sure the TOP is at the TOP replace alloy pipe using some instant auto gasket sealent making a nice bead all around]tighten all bolts and nut to a tight seal and refit all the same in reverse once finished add approx 2ltrs of antifreeze 2ltrs of water 50-50ratio turn heating inside car to 40 high whilst car running top up until required amount is reached if heat comes out inside cabin then not only the thermostat is working corectly but also it means the water has made its way around the systym and heat is produced from the matrix sounds long winded but its easy just get stuck in,once you start dismantling then you have no way back so you have to finish always worked for me :D TT thermostats are suitable for NA

same as TT

and mr MILF shunter knows all about stereos if he doesnt know then it isnt worth knowing :D

yep media scrutanise religions and as said make a mountain out of a molehill,as said there are still small groups wether it be brits,muslims there will always be a small minded group who vote against,what most people want-this is why there is war :( i love xmas maybe its because im luckily to have children,and smile when there happy,nice break,beer,relax and be happy-surely thats what lifes about,bah humbug to people who dislike xmas sod ya miserable fookers