greg

if your feeling flush the blits sbc is a nice piece of kit, easier to use than the greddy. IMO however for value for money as david says go for the profec b spec 2 :cool:

i dont think there is one, and you wouldnt need an aftermaket one

i can only assume the lack of vacuum from the egr, is the hose has come off from the egr-back of engine,best way is to run some silicone direct from egr to port, rather than nissans over engineered routing of the metal pipe under the plenum glad you sorted it, couldnt find a pic of the balance pipe, but you know these cars anyhow, so assumed you would sort it greg

castrol rs 10-60 or millers 10-60 fully synthetic there will always be debates about oil, but iv always used the above and personally found it to be the best, as has many people on here.

hes connected them up incorectly look in corner where small fusebox is check lines coming from there,i should imagine, the mechanic which is easily done, has run either the egr pipe that is just below master cylinder to the balance bar,and the vacuem for the gauge to the egr, hence why you have no gauge reading, either that or the air feed that is bolted to the plenum, above wastegate actuator which has 2feeds check the white dotted hose is on the top and the plain one at the bottom! il find a pic for you

hills have eyes i thought was disturbing for a modern day film, wolf creek for suspese, and for a manga horror it has to be itchi the killer :dance: spit on my grave was quite disturbing for an oldie, and for classic horror i guess the hellraiser saga, theres a lot of disturbing films out there.

your going to loose fluids how ever you go about it,you could syringe some of the fluid out of the pot before you take of the main feed,then its a case of collecting any that drops down,pull lid of remove 3 10mm bolts that hold it to bracket,slacken all jubille clips or clamps,then swap pot over, top up with car running and turn wheel from lock-lock either way,until no more fluid is needed, take for a test drive on retuen check levels, and top up as needed job done :)

turbo/s! check intercooler pipework for any evidence of oil,a small amount is normal but if its quite bad your seals may be worn,id put my money on turbos,if compression checks out ok,and is mainly on boost or just of let off then it points to turbo seal failure.

sssssstop do they make grolssssh there :wack:

if it was a bit of oil on the screw part of the plug before you pulled the plug out,it could be a leaking cam cover if it was in the bore possibly worn rings,however i wouldnt worry unless you are burning oil or compression is poor on that cylinder,if your talking a small amount then i wouldnt worry if its sopping then i would get it checked

yer long day and all that :wack: :)

only differances are as follows uk alternator belt is slightly longer than the j-spec,due to the waterpump pulley wheel being larger so in theory puts water around the engine quicker so for a uk version alternator 1040 air con 965 p steering 925 j-spec alternator 1015 air con 965 p steering 925 only other differances are NA power steering is a 2 rib vs a 3 rib for the twin turbo unsure of part numbes,however if you wish to get non oem,these numbers above may be useful

not really just the idiots driving the car inparticular

possibly the diff oil seal leaking,or check between casing,it does happen from time to time that the casing becomes loose or the seal becomes useless,you can check for tightness of the casing,i think its a ring of 12mm bolts

needs to be checked have you checked oil?lack of oil could mean the top end is lacking oil,and lifters are struggling to fill could be a stuck lifter causing a top end knock,and as its a twin cam per bank you have lifters opposed to tappets,lifters can sound like a knock,if its a bottom end rattle/knock you can get car up and use a thin screwdriver or mechanical stephascope and listen to the bottom end at idle,then you may find your answer

leave it as it is bud :)

nope the hose that comes off the plastic hose in pic, goes to the metal air feed bolted to the side of the plenum,and the one coming of the throttle body goes to the upper air feed,if this is missing it means someones blocked them off for whatever reason greg

perfect,a simple way of getting it spot on if your paranoid,is to open gap until the open end of a 10mm spanner sits in with some resistance

thats fine then,so if the tensioner is new,you will need to place the small 10mm bolt back in the tensioner arm so it dont open right out!!

well a 100kph =62mph to be precise,i should imagine there is a fault with the speed sensor and for some reason your getting a speed pulse that of a set of clocks in kph

does the noise dissapear when clutch is engaged,if you get a stephascope mechanical type one,or a long thin screwdriver,place it on bellhousing and listen,also listen inside through sump.if that checks out then i suppose its possible the inner gear on the pump is damaged and making a grating sound

make sure you have a good quality auto sealant idealy the black auto stuff you can get,i find red/blue instant gasket to be shit sealant for sump,bead all the way around, including a blob under the corners of each rubber seal at front and rear of sump,and a film of sealant over the seals themselfs,obviously remove every trace of old sealant from sump face and block check oil strainer o-ring and use a small film of sealant where it joins pump oil pump gasket which will come with pump oil return feeds from sump-turbo. new ones required idealy,check old but simple to replace. crank oil seal which sits inbetween oil pump housing,shares the same name as cam oil seal there the same size as your removing the cambelt you idealy need new cambelt and tensioner,and then you could argue is the waterpump due renewal as your there,but if moneys tight cambelt and tensioner will surfice thats your lot as far as gaskets are required HTH

for a bit it sounded like the layshaft in the gearbox,but if you have checked oil pump then perhaps it is that as layshaft can be noisy from cold then dissapear once warm

its not to bad a job anyway,just take your time,aslong as you have the correct tools/materials then you will be fine

few pics for you,might be useful BOTTOM END ASSEMBLY OIL PUMP STRIP DOWN